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Tracker1989-2004
This compact SUV proved itself to be a fine ecnomical vehicle, good for making its way along any type of surface. Platform: CAMI (Suzuki)
Thanks, my last question is if i were to go the route of welding the actuator does that impact 4H vs 4L. Like am i stuck with only one or the other once it's welded or does shifting between the two act just as it word with the actuator working normal?
HIGH and LOW are a function of the transfer case and will be selectable as before. The only way to put the car
in 2WD is by installing manual locking hubs. The cheapest ones I found were at Summit Racing.
Correction: I misspoke here. The transfer case shift lever will still take the car in and out
of 4WD (and 4WD LOW) with a welded actuator. But without unlocking the manual hubs
in 2WD, the front wheels will be turning all the rotating mass in the front differential
including the front driveshaft. This may not be an issue for an off-road beater.
No, my 4WD actuator works fine. I have an as yet undiagnosed axle issue on the passenger side. The manual locking hubs are just a temporary workaround. While it is likely that your actuator is ruptured, there is a chance it's just the internal rubber hose that's leaking. I'm never that lucky but maybe you will be. But even if the actuator is bad, welding it will still set you back at least $130 for the locking hubs. That is such a small savings over just replacing the actuator and leaving the differential fully functional you may want to reconsider welding it. On the other hand if you do weld it you will never have to worry about the air pump going bad.
Either way you have to remove the differential. Here's a tip. Unbolt the front drive shaft and three diff mounts. Slide the diff to the rear of the car (about 3 inches). That will give you enough room to get a wrench on the rack-and-pinion (aka steering gear). Once the steering gear is removed there will be enough room to extract the differential.
Oh that's very helpful. I was thinking I had to disassemble the struts, control arms, etc. I'm thinking your way of doing it will be a huge time saver.
Harbor Freight sells this $20 tool to pop the tie-rod ends out of the steering knuckle. You will need it. Also, the
driver's side axle will unbolt from the differential. That's no problem. But the passenger side either has to be
popped out of the differential with a large screwdriver or (if that turns out to be impossible), removed with the
differential.
You have an air leak. In a sealed system the pump will not run more than 3 seconds.
The PCM cuts power to the pump after 10 seconds to protect the motor.
Remove the end of the hose that connects to the bottom of the front differential and plug
it with a Phillips screwdriver. It the motor still runs for 10 seconds you have a bad air pump
or a leak in the air line. If the motor stops after 2 or 3 seconds you have a bad differential.
