Every internet article I read about the function of the CKP sensor agreed with you in that most engines will not run without a CKP signal and I knew that was not the case with my engine. I have seen multiple references on the Suzuki forum of "heat soaked" camshaft position (CMP) sensors not working until they were cooled with a wet rag. It was never made clear if the original poster has a 2.0L or 2.5L engine.

 

I don't know which set up your vehicle has , but some had an "A" and "B" crank sensor set up. The engine managed to start on one or the other.The saving grace was the direction provided by the scan tool. They do get a little complicated and I did find it peculiar that some of the diagrams showed a main relay which I believe applies to an imported engine set up. What do you think?

 

The Tracker's (H25A) V6 is a Suzuki engine co-developed with Mazda and Toyota. GM's input to the car's
design was more cosmetic than anything. The CKP sensor for the 2.0L (J20) and the 2.5L (H25A) use a
single 2-wire magnetic induction crank sensor (below).

 

Now that we covered just about all the technical "stuff", I did base my original suggestion on the info provided in the original post.
The problem apparently was present after going through a "puddle we don't know how much" of water. Since that engine set up may require a cam and crank signal to be able to start What if you verified you are getting a cam signal and crank signal
Will the scan tool provide this info? Of course the six million dollar question is , Does the scan tool cover this engine manufacturer?

 

You pose three questions:
Q1. What if you verified you are getting a cam signal and crank signal?
Q2. Will the scan tool provide this info?
Q3. Does the scan tool cover this engine manufacturer?

A1. I am unaware of any practical way to verify the cam or crank signal directly.

A person could back probe the PCM connectors with an oscilloscope but that might be
beyond the reach of most DIYers.

A2. I have a Tech 2 scanner with the GM cartridge. It will run every test found in the
factory service manual, but it does not display the cam or crank signal.

Instead of looking for the signal directly, the Chevy service manual says to check for DTC's
indicating a faulty sensor. For my car that would be:
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor "A" Circuit Malfunction
P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Malfunction

A3. Any OBD2 scanner will read stored codes, but if no codes are stored any scanner
capable of reading live data will be able to check the ECT, TP and MAP for what the
service manual describes as "expected values."

The Chevrolet factory service manual has a 16-step flowchart for troubleshooting
a crank, no start condition. Here are the highlights:

 

First , I have never worked on a Suzuki engine,therefore until I become familiar with it operating requirements not qualified to answer all possibilities.
I am, however , familiar with GM and other American vehicle operating requirements.

The technical operating requirements for Suzuki have been made available and they need to now be verified.
The presence of a signal can most times be verified with a good DVOM.although it's integrity can only be evaluated with a graphing meter or scope.
It is not known if the vehicle owner or the person attempting to troubleshoot has access to this type equip , it's proper use and of course the correct info, which has so far been provided.
We all know an engine has to have fuel, air , compression and spark at the right time. Thanks for the info. The rest for now is up to the person attempting to find the problem and correct it.

 

To answer your question about belts vs chains, both engines have timing chains. The 2.0L has two, the 2.5L has three.

 

thank you for the info i saw in one post you didnt know what size of engine it was its a 2.0 litre and also did not know how deep of water it was driven in, im getting this info from the 2nd owner who bought it and was trying to fix it. he had replaced several items on it and was trying to find out what was wrong im picking it up in a couple of days from him and im trying to diagnose what it could be all your info is great......

 

Download these three pages and print them out:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/p8kkat2i9p...-1250.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/nbh8lyuct5...-1251.jpg?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/z0jrsmvd5v...-1252.jpg?dl=0
Decide if you have the tools, time, talent and temperament to tackle this problem.

If so, forget about the puddle anecdote. Start troubleshooting the situation you have now:
Crank, No Start. Don't assume anything. Test everything. What is worrisome to me is in
your initial post you indicated the PCM had been changed. It is imperative the original
PCM is put back in the car. When you swap the PCM you run the risk of inheriting
software not suitable for your engine. Troubleshooting an engine with one problem is
hard. Troubleshooting an engine with two problems is four times harder.

 

Step 4 in the flow chart ask you to check for spark. You can do that with one of these inexpensive
spark testers. If indeed there is no spark then follow the flow chart. If there is spark, spray some
starter fluid into the throttle body while cranking. If it starts you have a fuel problem.