Gas Guage does what it wants to do
Ok i own a 2000 Chevy Venture 3.4 and The gas gauge and any read out fuel related is wrong it seems the emptier it is the fuller the gas gauge reads and the more miles i have to empty its not the gauge cluster going bad or the gauge it has to be the sensor am i right or wrong if right? what sensor am i going to need to change?
That sounds exactly like overfilling the fuel tank.
For some reason the Ventures tended to be more sensitive to overfills as compared to most vehicles.
Have you ever let the gas pump click off and then try to squeeze an even dollar amount into it? Or maybe just click off, put more, click off, put more, etc? A lot of people do it just out of habit and I don't blame you if you do, but sometimes its not good for the level sensor.
Might want to take it to a mechanic and have it calibrated.
For some reason the Ventures tended to be more sensitive to overfills as compared to most vehicles.
Have you ever let the gas pump click off and then try to squeeze an even dollar amount into it? Or maybe just click off, put more, click off, put more, etc? A lot of people do it just out of habit and I don't blame you if you do, but sometimes its not good for the level sensor.
Might want to take it to a mechanic and have it calibrated.
Last edited by EvansBlue; Feb 16, 2009 at 9:56 PM.
Is there anyway to fix this? anyone? I'll tell you what i will post it on
WWW.PROBETALK.COM and see what they say and let you know what they figure out for future reference
WWW.PROBETALK.COM and see what they say and let you know what they figure out for future reference
I'm not sure how to fix it, but there is a sequence to resetting the gas gauge. Could be something like resetting the oil life timer. If thats the case, to start off with, you have to fill it up with gas until the pump cuts off. I know that much.
Could be something like this:
Stand on your head, smack the brake pedal repeatedly, click the flasher button six times, drive around an parking lot four times on 2 wheels, then lay down on the horn for 30 seconds or until you hear a chime...
lol
Does it say anything about it in the O'sM?
Could be something like this:
Stand on your head, smack the brake pedal repeatedly, click the flasher button six times, drive around an parking lot four times on 2 wheels, then lay down on the horn for 30 seconds or until you hear a chime...
lol
Does it say anything about it in the O'sM?
I have the same problem and after doing searches on the internet, have found that this is not an uncommon problem. The issue is the fuel sending unit on top of the gas tank. It goes bad after a bit and needs to be replaced. Unfortunately it's a multi function unit and you must have the fuel tank dropped to get to it. Usually runs a few hundred dollars.
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This is a response from a member on ProbeTalk.com concerning my venture: (please keep in mine they all drive probes/mazdas)
It could be several things. The gas gauge in that van is not directly wired to the fuel level sending unit in the tank. The fuel sender sends a voltage signal to the PCM. The PCM then broadcasts a serial data message on the Class 2 data bus line. The Instrument Panel Cluster's computer then controls the gas gauge based on the data being sent to it via the Class 2 data bus from the PCM. It could be the sender in the tank, IPC, or gauge itself. If there was a problem with the PCM or Class 2 lines chances are none of the gauges and anything controlled by the BCM would work either so you can rule those out. You'd need to do some testing to pinpoint it.
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It could be several things. The gas gauge in that van is not directly wired to the fuel level sending unit in the tank. The fuel sender sends a voltage signal to the PCM. The PCM then broadcasts a serial data message on the Class 2 data bus line. The Instrument Panel Cluster's computer then controls the gas gauge based on the data being sent to it via the Class 2 data bus from the PCM. It could be the sender in the tank, IPC, or gauge itself. If there was a problem with the PCM or Class 2 lines chances are none of the gauges and anything controlled by the BCM would work either so you can rule those out. You'd need to do some testing to pinpoint it.
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heres another one from PT.com:
Unless you like to waste money and throw parts at it, yes you'll need to bust out a meter. The sender is most likely a whole fuel pump module, and they can be anywhere from high 200's to over $700 in some cases! Start by checking the ground and signal wire to the fuel level sender, you can do it at the tank connector or under the hood at the PCM. I'd do it at the PCM personally to test the condition of the wires running to it while testing the sender too. Empty should be about 40 ohms, 250 full if memory serves. You may want to buy a manual to double check those numbers and have access to wiring pinouts and schematics. See if jouncing the car up and down makes the gauge go crazy, if it does see if your meter readings also go nuts. If it does that or fails the steady ohm test you have a bad sender. If it passes that and the wires are okay, you most likely have a bad gauge cluster or IPC. Either of which requires cluster replacement. This should be fairly easy to troubleshoot even if you arent used to meters and whatnot.
Unless you like to waste money and throw parts at it, yes you'll need to bust out a meter. The sender is most likely a whole fuel pump module, and they can be anywhere from high 200's to over $700 in some cases! Start by checking the ground and signal wire to the fuel level sender, you can do it at the tank connector or under the hood at the PCM. I'd do it at the PCM personally to test the condition of the wires running to it while testing the sender too. Empty should be about 40 ohms, 250 full if memory serves. You may want to buy a manual to double check those numbers and have access to wiring pinouts and schematics. See if jouncing the car up and down makes the gauge go crazy, if it does see if your meter readings also go nuts. If it does that or fails the steady ohm test you have a bad sender. If it passes that and the wires are okay, you most likely have a bad gauge cluster or IPC. Either of which requires cluster replacement. This should be fairly easy to troubleshoot even if you arent used to meters and whatnot.
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