At this point, I'd suggest de-greaser, disconnect battery, and a power wash.

 

Good idea thanks

 

If you’re getting intermittent no-power with the key on/cranking, the most likely problem is the ignition switch.

When the problem is present, check for battery voltage on the red wires at the switch. These are the power in circuits. Then check for battery voltage at the pink, brown and orange wires with the key ON - these are the primary power feeds to fuses and engine components.

Finally, check for battery voltage on the purple wire with the key in CRANK - this feeds the starter solenoid.

Power in but no power out means the ignition switch is faulty. You may get by temporarily by cleaning the connections.

 

Thanks appreciate it. I remember as far back as 10 years ago it would do weird stuff like not roll or no start then start fine. It was cranking fine but no start when I replaced ignition switch last yr but after replacing it no crank.

When doing the starter wires the big cable had alot of corrosion inside cable so I cut it out. The small starter wire looked ruff but I think many yrs ago mechanic did it when truck quit and had no start. He told me truck had wiring problem but I can't ask him he killed himself may he RIP. I will post a pic of wire

 

I have replaced most grounds. The only ground I have read about being Important but haven't found is at the rear bumper area to box. I dont have reverse lights yet either and in the reading I have done some say that's important for ignition switch function so not sure if related just a mention.

 

You should definitely replace the eyelet on that solenoid wire - possibly replace the last foot or 2 of wire leading up to it in case the rest is questionable.

As far as grounds go, there’s only a few primary connections that are necessary:

1) Battery to block
2) Battery to body
3) Battery to frame
4) Cab to frame and engine block

All other ground connections (ground straps) are for redundancy or safety (one example being the filler neck is usually grounded to prevent static discharge when pumping gas). Oftentimes the frame to battery is achieved by connecting the frame to the same ground point on the block where the battery cable connects. Ground straps don’t have to be the bare weave wire either - off the shelf 10 gauge wire works just fine. Just make sure there’s clean metal wherever you hook them up.

And don’t overlook the battery cable connections themselves if it’s a side post. Side post batteries don’t maintain connection well even when everything is tightened the way it should be. When servicing customer cars I will usually try to snug them up just to make sure they’re tight.

 

Great info my truck was a bit different so I added a ground from frame to battery. It rolls good now after cleaning starter and adding new eyelet.

It is almost starting again wont start even with ether so I pulled all 6 plugs. It seemed strange first 4 bone dry after cranking not normal. The last 2 were soaked cylinder 5 and 6.

 

When you had the engine apart for the head removal, did you have any rags stuffed into the intake ports while cleaning? If so, maybe you forgot to remove them?

That’s a mistake I’ve made more times than I care to admit.

 

No but I can scope it to make sure no obstructions. I was assuming fuel pressure regulator problem or cam lobes worn. Those 4 dry plugs should have been soaked after cranking. The other day when it started I had put some ether in plug holes 1&3

 

Going back to basics, keep in mind the fuel delivery is dependent on vacuum. Once fuel is sprayed into the TB it is only going to be pulled into a cylinder if the vacuum is strong enough to do so.

For fuel to reach only a couple cylinders indicates a vacuum problem. If you don’t find any restrictions I’d suggest checking compression again.