Thank you @Gumby22 . We are basicaly positive we dont have any leaks. The shoes are adjusted out pretty far, but we might be able to get a little more out of one of them. We will have to try piching the lines to see if their is a particular circuit that is haveing proablems. I just think its farther up myself, but I will have to find out.

 

One other thing - is it possible you mistakenly swapped the front calipers? The bleeder screw should be above the hose fitting.

It’s a REALLY easy mistake to make if you’re not thinking about it. I’ve done it a few times at work.

 

@Gumby22 No, I think they are right, the bleeder screws are above the banjo bolt. I didn't know it was posible, but good to know.

 

@Gumby22 by the way, I was asked if these trucks had an adjustment on the booster in between the booster and the master cylinder. We where thinking that could be something to concider. Do you know if these truck have something like that.

 

Yes but adjustment is not typically needed for MC replacement.

I don’t know the exact spec for brake pedal free play on your truck, but if it’s not more than 1” it’s unlikely it needs adjustment.

 

Ok, thanks @Gumby22 that is good to know. I don't think that is my proablem, I just wanted to know. I think sometime this week I am going to get the truck into a shop where it can be hooked up to a good scan tool and try that method of bleeding the ABS. Hopefully it works🤞!

 

I figured, as it has been a few days, I should post an update. I recently had my grandfather, a retired diesel tech, take a look at the truck, and he seemed to suspect the master cylender, the new one I just put in. His reasoning being that when pushing the pedal, their was very little to no fluid movement in the resevior. He said typically, their should be a little wave or gyser of fluid that rises in the resevior when the pedal is depressed. So, we warantied theaster cylander. We made sure to look around it for leakage, but could not find any. We got to the parts store and when shown the new one, found multipe differences. Firstly. And most importantly, in the box where instructions, and a small set of hoses to bench bleed the master. The first one I got, the bad one, had none of that. Also, I think the resevior was a slightly different shape, and what interested me is that it seemed to be atached to the master much more solid. The old one would wiggle and move very much when removing/installing the cap, the new one, not so much. So, we got back, and bleed the new master, installed it, and bleed the brakes, and knowticed improvement, the pedal is much closer to the top now, though still not quite where I want it to be. I feel that I can drive the truck now, and I am going to drive for a few weeks, to brake in the new pads. I still am suspisious of air in the ABS, so unless I see a lot of improvement in the next week or two, I think I will have it bleed on a scan tool. And a question I have. And maybe @Gumby22 will know the answer to this, can I hook the truck to a scaner, and purge/bleed the ABS, then drive it home and bleed it? Or is it best to do it all at once?

 

Yes, it’s possible to bleed the ABS, drive it, then bleed the base brakes - but it’s not something I’d recommend for the simple fact that if the ABS engages on the drive (whatever the reason), you risk trapping air in the ABS control valves again.

If you’re going to have a shop bleed the ABS, they may refuse to do it if you ask them not to bleed the base brakes again. It will just depend on the shop and their comfort level and/or insurance policies.

However it also shouldn’t add much to the total bill as bleeding is less than a 1/2 hour process with the right equipment.

 

@Gumby22 Ok, thats kind of what I figured. I just ask because I know a place I could borow a scaner from, but not do the work their. I think I would just take it to a shop though.

 

So, I tried taking the truck to a shop, and I got no results from their work, other than a big bill of course, and a new master cylinder (the second new master cylinder supposedly went bad during the bleeding prosses). I specifically had them do and ABS bleed, using a scanner, and also after that did not work, I had them try to bleed it the regular way with the battery disconnected (I have seen some general ABS bleeding pages suggest that). So, this post is basically just to say that using a scan tool, and or disconnecting the battery did not appear to help, the pedal does not go all the way to the floor, but is still soft.