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Hi all, don't know if i'll get a reply but worth a shot cause there's a good chance you guys know a whole lot more than me about mechanical stuff, this is more a wiring problem however (I think) :
Was backing out of driveway the other day, switched to Drive and the truck instantly died. I put it in park and started it right back up again, it has not died again since (or ever from any other reason since getting this truck a few months ago). Only until later that night did I realize while sitting in park in the dark my reverse lights are both on. Switching into reverse turns them off. some very small "research" indicates to me something along the lines of a "neutral safety switch" on the trans...just looking for some more opinions.
2000 silverado 1500 LT 5.3 v8
around 314,000 miles on the rusty girl and purrs like a kitten still. But the transmission is used and the mileage or previous abuse is unknown, shifts have always been a little harder than Ive thought was particularly "normal".
It’s either the transmission range switch (neutral safety switch is integrated) or a short in the harness for the range switch.
It’s on the left side of the transmission, where the shifter linkage hooks up. It has a 7 way (range switch) and 4 way (neutral safety switch) connector plugged into it. Inspect the harness and connectors for damage.
FYI the connectors were glued into the range switch from the factory - you will need a heat gun (or a very skilled hand with a propane torch) to be able to remove the connectors.
Honestly you should just plan on replacing it. They’re known for having problems with age and mileage. The switch and connectors (replacement also recommended) are readily available at most auto parts stores and online vendors.
Well damn. I've barely worked under a car before but I want every mile out of this beast until I can afford a new vehicle, hopefully you are referring to just replacing the range switch and connectors and not the whole trans lol, is reaching the switch possible without removing a bunch of things and/or hopefully not the whole trans itself being lifted out? also is there a way to determine shorts in wiring? Sometimes my parking brake light will come on in the dash even though it's not being actually applied, and I've read that could be due to a short as well...but perhaps on a different circuit or whatever...sorry for all the questions I really slept through too much school it seems. -- thank you a ton for the info
Well damn. I've barely worked under a car before but I want every mile out of this beast until I can afford a new vehicle, hopefully you are referring to just replacing the range switch and connectors and not the whole trans lol, is reaching the switch possible without removing a bunch of things and/or hopefully not the whole trans itself being lifted out? also is there a way to determine shorts in wiring? Sometimes my parking brake light will come on in the dash even though it's not being actually applied, and I've read that could be due to a short as well...but perhaps on a different circuit or whatever...sorry for all the questions I really slept through too much school it seems. -- thank you a ton for the info
The range switch is on the outside of the transmission. The shifter cable hooks up to a small arm that’s secured to a shaft with a nut. The shaft passes through the switch. Remove the nut and arm (note that the arm fits onto a rectangular nub), the range switch mounting bolts (also note the switch and shaft both have matching flats) and the range switch will slide off.
You will probably need to clean and lubricate the shaft to remove and install the switch. A small wire brush and WD40 should work.
As for testing for shorts in the harness - your best bet is to just do a thorough inspection on the harness before and after the switch (within a couple of feet). Take it loose from any clips holding it so you can look at all sides - any area where the plastic loom is broken or rubbed through requires more thorough inspection. At 20 years old, I’d be surprised if there’s no damage, or a hack job from a PO, so if you find any damage, repair it before replacing the switch. Use butt connectors that have heat shrink and glue in them to splice the wires and make sure to tape the harness back together to help reinforce it.
I want to take a look at this tomorrow. could I post a few pictures here tomorrow of the switch and surrounding wires for a more experienced eye on it before I monkey around? I was just under there with a flash light (night time out), and I already believe to see a couple wires that have actually burned through to the actual copper a little bit.. fudge. lol (i believe it was to a smaller pin connector too possibly the very neutral switch in question) thanks again for the reply
I want to take a look at this tomorrow. could I post a few pictures here tomorrow of the switch and surrounding wires for a more experienced eye on it before I monkey around? I was just under there with a flash light (night time out), and I already believe to see a couple wires that have actually burned through to the actual copper a little bit.. fudge. lol (i believe it was to a smaller pin connector too possibly the very neutral switch in question) thanks again for the reply
Pictures are always helpful, but if you can see bare wires, you probably already know what’s wrong.
Pictures are always helpful, but if you can see bare wires, you probably already know what’s wrong.
well it was a tiny sliver about a foot down from the connector..i covered it with eletrical tape lol. I was down there but i cant get any pics that are even helpful, is there no way to just adjust the range switch while on the trans still? If i could jerry rig this for a while id be perfectly happy. Ive heard its got to do with something not being in the right position? However that might be for an entirely different issue i cant remember now.
heres a real crappy video in attachment...not sure how to post it in the post directly
I couldn’t get the video to play (I’m not very good at interneting so it may be my fault).
Electrical tape is a temporary fix at best. You need to strip off the plastic loom and tape and separate the wires in that area to get a good look at all of them. It’s not true 100% of the time, but oftentimes, 1 damaged wire means others are damaged too.
The range switch MIGHT be adjustable - it seems like some were and some weren’t. The figure below shows a special tool being used to align it, but realistically, a good straightedge will accomplish the same thing as long as you can see it clearly.
If the switch itself isn’t adjustable, the shifter cable should be, and you can try adjusting that as well to see if it corrects the problem.