2001 Chevy Silverado 1500, 4.8 liter, 4x4-notorious plastic heater core connections..
I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado 1500 4x4 4.8 liter extended cab. I was smelling antifreeze under the hood and decided to check it out. I have been wrenching on this truck for 14 years, a lot of rust, check engine lights, replacing everything twice. I'm sure many of you can relate. I don't care what anyone says, this is one of the best, easy to work on trucks I have ever owned. It has 170,000 miles, beat up dirty and broken. I wouldn't have it any other way.
Sorry, needed to say that. So one side of the heater core plastic connections broke off of the heater core pipe. I went out and purchased the Dorman stainless steel replacements, I was going to replace both.
Well, after using the "removal tool" needed to release the plastic connectors off of the heater core pipes I attempted to install the new connectors. I tried everything, I lightly greased the areas, and was careful to press the connector back onto the heater core pipe straight on, not at an angle which would prevent a good connection but IT WOULD NOT CLICK(lock) ON INTO PLACE! I was able to easily pull the new connector off which means it technically could just blow off the heater core pipe at anytime. Yes, I twisted and turned and lightly tapped it, the new and supposedly improved upgraded connector would not "lock" into place. I didn't want to buy plastic ones as the heat from the antifreeze makes the plastic brittle so why bother put new plastic connectors on. So the reason for my post is:
I decided to install the 5/8th's heater core hoses directly onto the aluminum heater core pipes. The hoses were plenty long to reach the heater core pipes and I used american made heater hose clamps( worm clamps) not the press "pressure" clamps that were on there originally. Has anyone else decided to eliminate these plastic connectors? 2nd question: why do they exist to begin with? Easy way for your truck to over heat and heads to crack as the truck would have overheated if I didn't catch it in time. Any help would be great. Plastic should never be used when super hot antifreeze flows through it.
Side note: I tightened the hose clamps tight enough to prevent leaks but not super tight to damage or collapse the heater core aluminum pipes.
Thx!!
Anthony
Sorry, needed to say that. So one side of the heater core plastic connections broke off of the heater core pipe. I went out and purchased the Dorman stainless steel replacements, I was going to replace both.
Well, after using the "removal tool" needed to release the plastic connectors off of the heater core pipes I attempted to install the new connectors. I tried everything, I lightly greased the areas, and was careful to press the connector back onto the heater core pipe straight on, not at an angle which would prevent a good connection but IT WOULD NOT CLICK(lock) ON INTO PLACE! I was able to easily pull the new connector off which means it technically could just blow off the heater core pipe at anytime. Yes, I twisted and turned and lightly tapped it, the new and supposedly improved upgraded connector would not "lock" into place. I didn't want to buy plastic ones as the heat from the antifreeze makes the plastic brittle so why bother put new plastic connectors on. So the reason for my post is:
I decided to install the 5/8th's heater core hoses directly onto the aluminum heater core pipes. The hoses were plenty long to reach the heater core pipes and I used american made heater hose clamps( worm clamps) not the press "pressure" clamps that were on there originally. Has anyone else decided to eliminate these plastic connectors? 2nd question: why do they exist to begin with? Easy way for your truck to over heat and heads to crack as the truck would have overheated if I didn't catch it in time. Any help would be great. Plastic should never be used when super hot antifreeze flows through it.
Side note: I tightened the hose clamps tight enough to prevent leaks but not super tight to damage or collapse the heater core aluminum pipes.
Thx!!
Anthony
When I got my 02, one of the things I did was replace my heater core. Upon learning about the connectors that were typically used on this part, I discovered the steel ones from Dorman. Gotta say, I had zero trouble with them. They slid into place and clicked. Did you try both or just one of them that didn't click? That's certainly unusual. I'd say you spectacularly got a set from a bad batch of connectors or your heater core's tubes are slightly out of spec. May take some time, but I'd try again with the steel ones from a replacement set. I feel they are a wildly worthy upgrade over the plastic garbage that comes stock.
When I got my 02, one of the things I did was replace my heater core. Upon learning about the connectors that were typically used on this part, I discovered the steel ones from Dorman. Gotta say, I had zero trouble with them. They slid into place and clicked. Did you try both or just one of them that didn't click? That's certainly unusual. I'd say you spectacularly got a set from a bad batch of connectors or your heater core's tubes are slightly out of spec. May take some time, but I'd try again with the steel ones from a replacement set. I feel they are a wildly worthy upgrade over the plastic garbage that comes stock.
Disadvantage? I think the only thing I can say is the design of the heater core's pipes are likely designed to fit those connectors rather than the old school method of stuffing a hose on to the end and clamping it down lol but truthfully, I don't think that's significant. Perhaps ease of access? I know there's not a ton of space back there, so getting your screwdriver in there to mess with the clamps instead of just popping off the connectors has got to be a consideration as well.
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Factory plastic parts always break over time, if you run into the issue with any of your Blend Doors be sure to visit our website Blend Door USA we make aluminum replacement parts right here in the United States.



