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its been a few days, had a cold weather snap, had to wait for some parts, still waiting on other parts... new u bolts / cleaned up mounts repairing seal/ e brake boot time travel, or replaced? led lights, new signal/drl lens cleaned up w/ new boots and internal slides old crusty caliper slide pin bolt truck now has a full floater u joints were a pain to install but done!!!
been busy and havent posted much....
bought a full floater locally- semi floaters are junk, when my dad had any chevy truck with a semi -floater it would get removed and we would install full floaters- SO MUCH EASIER TO WORK ON-
when rolling the old diff acrooss the yard, it made some not nice clunky noises from inside....didnt take it apart, just got it out of my way.
one of the caliper slides was crusty as f so those were cleaned and swapped from the old diff. all caliper slide pins polished and coated with high temp orange silicone grease
the u-joints were a pain!! once installed , they would not articulate- very stiff- so my son went about with a dremel and diamond wheel and made the snap ring grooves wider, so there isnt as much pressure on the caps against the center section- loosened up the articulation nicely. took 3 times each end , press u joints in and out with proper tool....
new pinion seal and diff cover, one new seal on the outboard hub- someone has been in there recently, but everything was still dirty- so wifey cleaned it up after i pulled the hub.
verify that e- brake components work, and set park brake shoes.
all new brakes coming later...
diff installed
all new park brake cables installed.
driveshaft installed.
waiting for the stainless steel brake pipes that run across the diff to the rear calipers. thats been delayed a few days.
installed a antitheft switch
now to relay mod the headlamps- wire the drl to the low beams, then relay high beam to low beam AND the driving lights in the bumper.- that way ALL the forward lighting can be used at the same time. i live out in the country so seeing l critters like a moose crossing the road is always nice to see but not nice to hit...
installed tai-gate light strip. steering column plastic installed, then snap in dash. need to find the blunt cuts for the trailer brake controller, then decide on what type/ where to mount the controller...
oem stereo has burnt out display lighting.
hvac controls have burnt out lighting..
always another list to start / alter for vehicle repairs...
shake-down run ok. heat blend door issue- cold is hot, hot is cold....minor fluid top-ups. shifting issues, not sure if o/d is working, hard time getting 1st at the shifter-looks like a worn socket assembly-sometimes the dash letters dont respond...
cheap code reader came back with o2 sensor 2, bank 2 - may have found chaffed wiring for that-
adjusted pass door latch so door closes a little tighter
exhaust manifolds leaking- checked, they are loose after this heat cycle to town and back. will tq them again. or buy new headers.
has a vibe / noise at highway speed, leaning towards the front driveshaft- or transfer case- lots of slop at the output shaft to the front diff, seems excessive even with it being a slip-joint connection.driveshaft was replaced at some time, has a local driveline sticker on it.
tightened the exhaust manifolds again. hopefully the putter is gone...?
waiting for some hvac parts.
now the kids toyota needs tlc while waiting for parts.
more parts arrived. will change out the hvac controls (dead lights internally, possibly dead hot / cold control ****.) and ANOTHER hvac blend door motor....ugh what was wrong with simple cables???
heat blend function still not working properly. new hvac panel, and another blend door motor- tried some youtube resets, none worked- left the battery and fuses out overnight, maybe a delayed reset?.??
i have never had to reset the hvac system when changing a blend door motor / hvac control- just plug and play.
there is no overdrive. shift from D to 3 and there is no rpm change. very minor change in rpm, maybe 200 rpm? when pressing the tow/haul button, but noticeable.
will be purchasing a bidirectional code reader.
why do engineers have to make things so complicated???? cable shift trans, cable shift heater controls-easy peasy, cable breaks, replace cable-
not hours spent with electronic gizmos that tell you that another electronic gizmo has failed and its in a terrible spot to replace-
my daily driver is 25+ years old, still has cable controls for the hvac, and they all work !! only replaced a worn out blower motor.....
after some testing it looks like the pigtail is no good at the blend door motor. hold it just right and it swings back and forth between hot and cold no problem....let it go, and it might move.....
so either a new pigtail, or take a chance on a junkyard part.
new pig-tail arrived for blend door motor.
popped a check engine light when wifey went to the garbage dump with it... will check into that with my generic code reader.
looking into buying a bi-directional code reader . repair shops are a rip-off !!
codes are for the o2 sensors. still oem sensors from 2000. wiring was questionable above the transfer case. exhaust still has a minor leak, that doesnt help.
repairing my daily drivers, the truck is parked out of the way for now.
still buying more parts....
