Can I upgrade the AC inverter
2020 Chevy Silverado
I was wondering if it is possible to replace the factory inverter with something better. I've read elsewhere that it is located behind the back seat. I just want to make sure that it is possible before doing any work.
I was wondering if it is possible to replace the factory inverter with something better. I've read elsewhere that it is located behind the back seat. I just want to make sure that it is possible before doing any work.
Last edited by Happle98; Feb 28, 2024 at 10:50 PM.
You would have to also upgrade the cabling, fuses, etc. to handle more power. It might as well be a new installation. I also would never run it off the main starting battery. If you want to start using some heavy power consumers and appliances, you're going to need to need a deep cycle auxiliary battery system.
You would have to also upgrade the cabling, fuses, etc. to handle more power. It might as well be a new installation. I also would never run it off the main starting battery. If you want to start using some heavy power consumers and appliances, you're going to need to need a deep cycle auxiliary battery system.
Isn't that around 10x the power of the OEM system?
1kW needs around 83 Amps so you're looking 4 AWG cable (similar to booster cables, or what's on your starter). That amount of power will flatten most normal car batteries in short order. You should probably do a bit of research first.
1kW needs around 83 Amps so you're looking 4 AWG cable (similar to booster cables, or what's on your starter). That amount of power will flatten most normal car batteries in short order. You should probably do a bit of research first.
Just as an FYI - for a 1000 watt max inverter, that means it will be pulling at least 75 - 80 amps of power at 13.2 VDC assuming a 95% conversion efficiency of DC into AC. (Remember power out equals power in divided by 0.95). That is a hellacious amount of current on the DC input side!
I just dis a quick google search on DC to AC inverters and it returned an efficiency of 90 - 95 %, so yes, I was being generous. I guess I should have cited something like 75 - 80 percent in order to come up with a 100 amp draw on the DC side.
People just do not understand basics like power out is less than power in, so for a 1 amp draw at ~120 VAC (120 watts), they are going to need close to 10 amps @ 13.2 VDC). And they wonder why circuit breakers pop, fuses blow and wiring insulation melts when they try to run household "light loads" from a vehicle.
People just do not understand basics like power out is less than power in, so for a 1 amp draw at ~120 VAC (120 watts), they are going to need close to 10 amps @ 13.2 VDC). And they wonder why circuit breakers pop, fuses blow and wiring insulation melts when they try to run household "light loads" from a vehicle.







