2013 Captiva LTZ.
Car turned off 4 times while driving, lost radio ,flickering of traction control, lost sound of turn signal . After getting home cleaned all grounds I was able to see, Worked great for 2 days, then all electrical turned off and back on while driving but lost power. Then after getting home all was ok again. Need Help, thanks in advance.

 

After the battery light came on earlier in the day my Captiva lost power and died last night on the way home. Replacing the battery 2 months ago when it wouldn't start after work one day seemed to fix the problem, but now this. Anyone have this issue? Seems like a bad alternator based on what I have been told and read. I just want to make sure it is not the computer or some other electrical issue before I spend $800 to replace it.

 

I have had re occurring electrical issues with my 2013 Captiva over the last year. Mostly after driving the vehicle for more than 20-30 minutes I will use the turn signal and the turn signal won't work and also the radio will shut off and then come back on losing all of my radio settings and clock. Also sometime after experiencing the turn signal/radio issue I will park my Captiva and get out of the vehicle and try to lock the door with the remote and it does not work all electrical seems disabled temporarily. I cannot even use the door lock switch and have to lock the vehicle with the key. Then when I try to start the vehicle it seems dead like the battery is not connected and the key will get stuck in the ignition and will not release. I wiggle the key and try a few times and then it comes back to life and starts most of the time.

I took the vehicle to the local Chevy dealer and they said they could not reproduce any of the issues. The issues happens daily but sporadically. I am now force to take my vehicle to a local mechanic since the dealer is not able to help me. I see this same issue with the turn signal and the radio posted in forums with 2012 Captiva's and it seems to be a chronic issue. Some say they replace the battery cable and ground wires to fix, but it seem like there is no recall and the dealers are not helping.

 

This issues was fixed after I took the vehicle to another mechanic. The battery cables were replaced over a month ago and no issues so far.

 

Jeff, is this still fixed?

 

Yes. It's still fixed.

 

YES.. Battery cables are the solution! Both cables are only crimped into the lead terminal's.. there are 2 cables in each terminal with the crimp being only so-so at best. In the best case you will get a 2-3 volt drop between the alternator and the battery lug and, be careful if the car had just been run with any load on it, the terminal WILL be hot! Add just a touch of oxidation and you have a diminished, intermittent or no connection. To temporally fix the issue, take a cable crimp tool or a large pair of vice grips and re-crimp both cables. You will hear the starter crank faster, the terminal will remain cool and the issues vanish. I heated the terminals and added solder, issues gone, saving the $150 + on a set of OEM cables with the same crappy crimp.