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2014 Chevy Captiva Electrical issues

Old Dec 1, 2019 | 11:49 PM
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Default 2014 Chevy Captiva Electrical issues

Hi! We’ve had our Captiva used for over a month, it’s a 2014 and having trouble with the dash lights like the parking brake and other lights flashing for a few seconds and then they go off. The other night I drove it about 20 minutes and pulled in to a parking lot and as soon as I turned off the key, the car died completely. No power no nothing. I had to have someone jump the car just to get home. Then, the most recent incident happened tonight Dec 1, 2019 which scared me and my passenger to death. I am an Uber driver just trying to get people where they need to go and as soon as I turned the into a residential corner, the car acted like it shifted out of first gear, because the engine just rev’d up without actually moving as if it was in neutral, the inside and outside lights started flashing, the radio went off and on, my Uber signed flickered and the automatic locks on the door unlocked. Please someone help me. We’ve had it for exactly 1 month and it replaced a car, that had numerous things wrong with it and this is our saving grace. I’ve read horror stories about these cars dying driving down the highway. I won’t risk my life or my passengers lives. This must be fixed!

Last edited by tstellwarren67; Dec 2, 2019 at 12:09 AM. Reason: How to contact GM to find out how to get it looked at and fixed!
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Old Dec 2, 2019 | 12:53 AM
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Originally Posted by tstellwarren67
Today at 10:09 PM. Reason: How to contact GM to find out how to get it looked at and fixed!
You call the GM dealership nearest to you and you make an appointment.

As for your problem, it sounds like a loose or dirty battery terminal.

Last edited by mountainmanjoe; Dec 2, 2019 at 12:57 AM.
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Old Dec 2, 2019 | 2:33 PM
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I had the battery checked at two different locations and ultimately I had it changed for no other reason other than a process of elimination, and the battery in it was only 4 months old, so Walmart replaced it at no charge. I can’t confirm, that was the problem even though the GMC dealership told me it sounded like one of the cells in the battery sound dead. All I can do is continue to drive it and pray, that a new battery fixed the problem! I will keep everyone posted..

Last edited by tstellwarren67; Dec 2, 2019 at 2:35 PM. Reason: Correction
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Old Dec 7, 2019 | 6:31 AM
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It did not fix the problem. It merely masked it, because 4 days later it reared its ugly head again with a new battery installed. It’s not a battery issue that’s evident, or it’s so simple it’s stupid!
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Old Dec 7, 2019 | 6:39 AM
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I had the battery checked out and it checked out fine with no issues.. Found out that the battery in it, was bought in August of this year, so I took in down to Walmart and had them replace it with a new one. This is in fact what the GMC dealer told me what could possibly be wrong with it, like it could have a bad cell, so I had it replaced! No problems whatsoever since then. Then tonight Friday night Dec 6,2019 I was on my way to pick up a rider and I went through a light on the service road and everything on the car shut off...it was T totally creepy!!!😱 I took my foot off of the gas and kept on steering it like nothing was wrong and it resumed as if nothing happened. I got my rider to his home safely and no sooner than did I leave, then two of the dash lights for parking came on, they flashed at me and, then it showed no problems until I got home. I drove all the way from I-44 from 23rd St all the way down to I-240 and then I-35 and pulled in my driveway with no problems. I even turned everything on just to see if I could overload the circuit and nothing even flinched, but as soon as I turned off the key, the lights wouldn’t even come back on..it was dead. I got out, opened the hood, tapped on the fuse box and then I shut the hood. Decided to see if it would even lock since it was dead and as soon as I hit the remote on the car, the car locked and everything came on. I even put the key back in the ignition and all of the instrument lights came on and everything was back to normal..now someone tell what the hell is wrong with it!...There’s either a Ghost in the machine or I think maybe there is a switch issue, because we’re having trouble with the key fitting in the ignition properly. I have to pick up my wife in 2 hours, so we’ll see...please say a prayer
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Old Dec 7, 2019 | 6:43 AM
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Car did not act up until WE got home and as soon as I turned off the key the car was dead. No power, no nothing..it makes no sense! Oh and GMC wants me to pay them to put it on their diagnostics computers to find the problem. I say you better be damn well paying for the problem. POS CHEVY DEALER
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 4:22 AM
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We may have fixed the problem or better yet God did! We’re going to go with the second selection. There was a loose wire right beside the positive battery cable that was not crimped properly and if was not touching the bolt all of the time it was more like leaning up against it which would cause it to act up when I went over a few bumps. I drove it for 8 solid hours and even killed the car to put gas in it and the lights stayed on and not one time did it mess up, so glory to the Highest of Almighty Savior Jesus!! 🙏 Thank you!!
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Old Dec 8, 2019 | 12:30 PM
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One week ago:

Originally Posted by mountainmanjoe
it sounds like a loose or dirty battery terminal.
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Old Dec 14, 2019 | 12:50 PM
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Default Replaced Exterior fuse box

Originally Posted by mountainmanjoe
One week ago:

Has anyone ever changed out an exterior fuse box on a 2014 Chevy Captiva or did you have to take it to the service Dept at a dealer? We had determined some of the problem, but now when I kill it (on occasion) the power goes off , but when I bang my fist on top of the fuse box a few times, it comes back on..If anyone can give some feedback, that would be very helpful!

Last edited by tstellwarren67; Dec 14, 2019 at 12:54 PM. Reason: Didn’t finish explaining
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Old Jan 1, 2020 | 6:17 PM
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Default Problem solved

We were given a suggestion of having the exterior fuse box replaced. We bought a new exterior fuse box from Bob Howard (PDC) Parts distribution Center which cost us around $200 for the part and another $30 for labor. Our mechanic performed a memory saver on the car which is vital (can cause other issues if that is not performed) on the car before we replaced the exterior fuse box and we’ve had no trouble since!

Last edited by tstellwarren67; Jan 1, 2020 at 6:25 PM.
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