2006 GMC Savanna AWD A/C Clutch Replacement
June 5th, 2023, 11:42 AM
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2006 GMC Savanna AWD A/C Clutch Replacement
Good morning all,
I am a new member and first time poster, but I just did a repair on my Van (Hank the Tank) and wanted to document it, as I did a lot of searching and found no info on the interwebs pre-repair. So, here is a little story/notes that will hopefully help if your A/C compressor clutch goes and you want to save ~$1000 by repairing yourself. I am NOT a mechanic by trade, but I am a decent wrench and am fairly well tooled.
So here is my story, sorry I didn't take pics, but I think it is all pretty straight forward and hopefully youtube videos exist for some of this stuff.
My A/C stopped working, and this makes my wife want a new van which is out of the question, Hank is a Tank, and we have no money for a nice new van. I wanted to diagnose before taking to a shop, so I investigated. 1st, I checked that the dash board heater/AC controls were working. The doors behind the dash are all vacuum operated, and if you break a vacuum line, that could keep air from going where it is supposed to, leading you to think the AC is bad when it is actually a heater control issue. (I have had to repair the vacuum lines, they are a pain). Anyway, that system checked out as still operable.
Next to check was the fuses. The A/C fuse on my rig was in the fuse panel in the engine compartment, I think #9 or 10, but you can look that up easy enough. I also checked a bunch of other fuses that I thought may be related to the A/C, all checked out intact, not blown.
Next, I located the A/C compressor (on the AWD 5.3L, that is under the engine, passenger side, tucked right up against the frame and cross member). I ran the car with A/C on and off, and looked at the pully on the front of the compressor. The clutch was not engaging. I then found the electrical connector for the A/C clutch (Access under rubber flap in passenger side wheel well, just above frame and behind A/C and heater lines, MUCH easier with passenger side front wheel removed) and disconnected it. With the engine running and the A/C on, the vehicle side of the connector was putting out 12V DC (checked with multimeter, make sure you are looking for DC voltage, check that your meter is set right by using your battery terminals). I then used my power probe, but fused test leads off of the battery would work to try and energize the coil on the A/C clutch, which should turn the pulley/rotate the compressor, give A/C. The clutch did not pull in with 12 VDC applied, I now know that my A/C clutch is bad. Time to take a step back.
I called my repair shop (Colchin Automotive) whom I deeply trust and value, just can't often afford, and got an informal verbal estimate of ~$1200ish to replace the compressor and do all of the associated refrigerant recovery and recharge, as well as the parts. I absolutely believe this is a reasonable figure for the associated parts and work in my area, I just don't have that kind of cash right now. So, plan B was to replace the compressor clutch assembly myself. I youtubed GMC A/C clutch replacement, and there is a good video of a guy doing one on a truck, but his is mounted on top with good access. However, is watching the video, I determined that all the work was within my ability IF I had decent access.
I ordered the parts, and proceeded to take my family for a camping trip to RMNP in Hank the Tank. It wasn't even hot out, and my beautiful wife made it perfectly clear she was not interested in riding in Hank until the A/C was operable... Welcome to my life. On this trip, I had the A/C on just hoping that the clutch would magically start working again, which it did not. This detail is important a little later in the story.
Parts arrived when we got back from camping, and time to work. I started by removing an access plate (2 15mm bolts I think) at the front of the vehicle, attached to the cross member under the front bumper. This lets you see the compressor pretty clearly. I then disconnected the battery and removed the A/C compressor belt, the tensioner is right next to the compressor, and tension is released by inserting a 3/8" drive into it and twisting to unload the tensioner.
I then put an impact on the center bold of the cluch assembly and the bold came out easy peasy. At this point I sprayed in the bolt hole with WD-40. I am not partial to any penetrant, it was at hand and had a straw on it. and let it soak.
Here is where I wasted a lot of time and energy, so read past this if you are going to attempt this your self. I used screwdrivers to get between the pulley and the clutch plate, and tried to wiggle the clutch plate off. Bad access, no luck, hours lost. Eventually, I smartened up a little and realized I at least needed better access. I removed the fan shroud, (Unbolt coolant tank and set asside. Unbolt air cleaner assembly, undo electrical connection, and remove air ducting back to throttle body. Remove (6?) bolts holding upper fan shroud, and gently work it out of the vehicle without damaging radiator, hoses, or wiring. Unbolt lower fan sroud (2 bolts) under bumper and again, gently work it out through the top(hood) of the vehicle. Then unbold the sway bar. This has 2 bolts holding the bushings on both frame rails, and will drop out of the way vastly improving your limited access. I did this job with the vehicle on jack stands and was very uncomfortable, but was able to access as needed.) Now, with adequate access, I tried to apply a 2-jaw puller to the fan clutch, but had no luck, there was no clearance to get hooked on the lip. I hemmed and hawed, and went to the parts store to look for a better puller, nothing. I went back home and looked at my new parts, and thought about my strategy. Here is the GEM that I found. The fan clutch is attached with a 10 mm bolt. Looking at my new clutch, the bolt hole is definitely a clearance fit on that 10 mm and it looked like it had threads in it... I dug in my bolts bin and found a 1/4-20, and while the threads were sloppy, it screwed in... I went back under the rig, and the 1/4-20 screwed into my stuck fan clutch as well! I put an impact on it, and off it came! VICTORY!!!! at least for now. Next is a snap ring that holds on the pulley itself. My snap ring pliers didn't open far enough when set up for exterior snap rings, so I had to set them up for interior snap rings and spread the handles apart. Cumbersome but it worked. I was then able to get my 2-Jaw puller in and remove the pulley.
Next is another snap ring holding on the coil, the actual part that had failed. Once the snap ring was out, it was easy peasy to get off the coil. However, the coil snap ring is in a deep recess, I had a lot of finagling to get good light, a mirror, and my snap ring pliers into the space and the snap ring off, as I was using the mirror to aim at the holes. Challenging.
Once the parts were all off, I cleaned and reassembled in the reverse order. Straight forward. There are a couple of shims that come with the clutch kit, that go behind the clutch plate so that you can set the gap between the pulley and the plate at between 0.018 and 0.030 inches. Mine took two washers, the video I watched took 3. (I will link to the video in a comment).
With the clutch installed, I did a quick check for clutch activation at the electrical connection by applying 12 VDC, it worked! I then reinstalled the belt, fan shroud, air box, and coolant reservoir and reconnected the battery. Oh, and I tried to put on the clip that holds the electrical connector to the side of the A/C compressor. This screw I stripped, and so my connector is zip tied to coolant lines which is not ideal. If I were to redo it, I would have hit that little phillips head with penetrant early in the job and let it soak. I was unable to get a straight shot onto it because of the frame, and I stripped it, wish I hadn't but oh well. So, now everything is in running (not driving state, and I turn Hank on and activate my A/C... NOTHING!!! I panic a little and grab my meter. With engine running and selector on A/C, no voltage at the clutch connector, where I would expect 12-14 VDC. I recheck fuse in the fuse panel and it is blown. After replacing the fuse, A/C is working!!! But I am scratching my head and second guessing whether it was just the fuse all along, and I miss-diagnosed it.
I then apply 12 VDC to the old coil I removed from the compressor, and it does not energize ( a bolt won't stick to it) and after a few seconds, blows the inline fuse. BINGO! While on our trip with me leaving the A/C on, I was trying to energize the coil, which must have developed an internal short. So while I initially had a good fuse and bad clutch, I now had a good clutch and bad fuse. This was a huge relief because I was now questioning the quality of the parts I had just installed.
Anyway, A/C is all good after about an hour of test running. I bolted everything back up and re-installed the tire, and while I had probably 6-8 hours into the job, right now my time is less valuable than my money, and I saved ~$1,000.
If you take this job on, it is doable, but VERY uncomfortable if your rig is no jackstands. You will need an impact driver, penetrating fluid, extensions, a universal or wobbly sockets, a good light, a mirror, a good set of snap ring pliers, and a 1/4-20 (or likely other thread that is more appropriate) bolt to use as a puller! It can be done, but it a commitment. If I had disposable income, I would seriously have considered letting my trusted shop do the work while I sipped a drink on the deck with my wife and daughter, but money is tight, so I struggled and won!
I hope this helps someone in a similar situation.
Thanks and peace to you all!
Tim
Here is a link to the youtube video which shows the A/C clutch job well, but this compressor is much easier to access. Otherwise the actual clutch work is identical.
I am a new member and first time poster, but I just did a repair on my Van (Hank the Tank) and wanted to document it, as I did a lot of searching and found no info on the interwebs pre-repair. So, here is a little story/notes that will hopefully help if your A/C compressor clutch goes and you want to save ~$1000 by repairing yourself. I am NOT a mechanic by trade, but I am a decent wrench and am fairly well tooled.
So here is my story, sorry I didn't take pics, but I think it is all pretty straight forward and hopefully youtube videos exist for some of this stuff.
My A/C stopped working, and this makes my wife want a new van which is out of the question, Hank is a Tank, and we have no money for a nice new van. I wanted to diagnose before taking to a shop, so I investigated. 1st, I checked that the dash board heater/AC controls were working. The doors behind the dash are all vacuum operated, and if you break a vacuum line, that could keep air from going where it is supposed to, leading you to think the AC is bad when it is actually a heater control issue. (I have had to repair the vacuum lines, they are a pain). Anyway, that system checked out as still operable.
Next to check was the fuses. The A/C fuse on my rig was in the fuse panel in the engine compartment, I think #9 or 10, but you can look that up easy enough. I also checked a bunch of other fuses that I thought may be related to the A/C, all checked out intact, not blown.
Next, I located the A/C compressor (on the AWD 5.3L, that is under the engine, passenger side, tucked right up against the frame and cross member). I ran the car with A/C on and off, and looked at the pully on the front of the compressor. The clutch was not engaging. I then found the electrical connector for the A/C clutch (Access under rubber flap in passenger side wheel well, just above frame and behind A/C and heater lines, MUCH easier with passenger side front wheel removed) and disconnected it. With the engine running and the A/C on, the vehicle side of the connector was putting out 12V DC (checked with multimeter, make sure you are looking for DC voltage, check that your meter is set right by using your battery terminals). I then used my power probe, but fused test leads off of the battery would work to try and energize the coil on the A/C clutch, which should turn the pulley/rotate the compressor, give A/C. The clutch did not pull in with 12 VDC applied, I now know that my A/C clutch is bad. Time to take a step back.
I called my repair shop (Colchin Automotive) whom I deeply trust and value, just can't often afford, and got an informal verbal estimate of ~$1200ish to replace the compressor and do all of the associated refrigerant recovery and recharge, as well as the parts. I absolutely believe this is a reasonable figure for the associated parts and work in my area, I just don't have that kind of cash right now. So, plan B was to replace the compressor clutch assembly myself. I youtubed GMC A/C clutch replacement, and there is a good video of a guy doing one on a truck, but his is mounted on top with good access. However, is watching the video, I determined that all the work was within my ability IF I had decent access.
I ordered the parts, and proceeded to take my family for a camping trip to RMNP in Hank the Tank. It wasn't even hot out, and my beautiful wife made it perfectly clear she was not interested in riding in Hank until the A/C was operable... Welcome to my life. On this trip, I had the A/C on just hoping that the clutch would magically start working again, which it did not. This detail is important a little later in the story.
Parts arrived when we got back from camping, and time to work. I started by removing an access plate (2 15mm bolts I think) at the front of the vehicle, attached to the cross member under the front bumper. This lets you see the compressor pretty clearly. I then disconnected the battery and removed the A/C compressor belt, the tensioner is right next to the compressor, and tension is released by inserting a 3/8" drive into it and twisting to unload the tensioner.
I then put an impact on the center bold of the cluch assembly and the bold came out easy peasy. At this point I sprayed in the bolt hole with WD-40. I am not partial to any penetrant, it was at hand and had a straw on it. and let it soak.
Here is where I wasted a lot of time and energy, so read past this if you are going to attempt this your self. I used screwdrivers to get between the pulley and the clutch plate, and tried to wiggle the clutch plate off. Bad access, no luck, hours lost. Eventually, I smartened up a little and realized I at least needed better access. I removed the fan shroud, (Unbolt coolant tank and set asside. Unbolt air cleaner assembly, undo electrical connection, and remove air ducting back to throttle body. Remove (6?) bolts holding upper fan shroud, and gently work it out of the vehicle without damaging radiator, hoses, or wiring. Unbolt lower fan sroud (2 bolts) under bumper and again, gently work it out through the top(hood) of the vehicle. Then unbold the sway bar. This has 2 bolts holding the bushings on both frame rails, and will drop out of the way vastly improving your limited access. I did this job with the vehicle on jack stands and was very uncomfortable, but was able to access as needed.) Now, with adequate access, I tried to apply a 2-jaw puller to the fan clutch, but had no luck, there was no clearance to get hooked on the lip. I hemmed and hawed, and went to the parts store to look for a better puller, nothing. I went back home and looked at my new parts, and thought about my strategy. Here is the GEM that I found. The fan clutch is attached with a 10 mm bolt. Looking at my new clutch, the bolt hole is definitely a clearance fit on that 10 mm and it looked like it had threads in it... I dug in my bolts bin and found a 1/4-20, and while the threads were sloppy, it screwed in... I went back under the rig, and the 1/4-20 screwed into my stuck fan clutch as well! I put an impact on it, and off it came! VICTORY!!!! at least for now. Next is a snap ring that holds on the pulley itself. My snap ring pliers didn't open far enough when set up for exterior snap rings, so I had to set them up for interior snap rings and spread the handles apart. Cumbersome but it worked. I was then able to get my 2-Jaw puller in and remove the pulley.
Next is another snap ring holding on the coil, the actual part that had failed. Once the snap ring was out, it was easy peasy to get off the coil. However, the coil snap ring is in a deep recess, I had a lot of finagling to get good light, a mirror, and my snap ring pliers into the space and the snap ring off, as I was using the mirror to aim at the holes. Challenging.
Once the parts were all off, I cleaned and reassembled in the reverse order. Straight forward. There are a couple of shims that come with the clutch kit, that go behind the clutch plate so that you can set the gap between the pulley and the plate at between 0.018 and 0.030 inches. Mine took two washers, the video I watched took 3. (I will link to the video in a comment).
With the clutch installed, I did a quick check for clutch activation at the electrical connection by applying 12 VDC, it worked! I then reinstalled the belt, fan shroud, air box, and coolant reservoir and reconnected the battery. Oh, and I tried to put on the clip that holds the electrical connector to the side of the A/C compressor. This screw I stripped, and so my connector is zip tied to coolant lines which is not ideal. If I were to redo it, I would have hit that little phillips head with penetrant early in the job and let it soak. I was unable to get a straight shot onto it because of the frame, and I stripped it, wish I hadn't but oh well. So, now everything is in running (not driving state, and I turn Hank on and activate my A/C... NOTHING!!! I panic a little and grab my meter. With engine running and selector on A/C, no voltage at the clutch connector, where I would expect 12-14 VDC. I recheck fuse in the fuse panel and it is blown. After replacing the fuse, A/C is working!!! But I am scratching my head and second guessing whether it was just the fuse all along, and I miss-diagnosed it.
I then apply 12 VDC to the old coil I removed from the compressor, and it does not energize ( a bolt won't stick to it) and after a few seconds, blows the inline fuse. BINGO! While on our trip with me leaving the A/C on, I was trying to energize the coil, which must have developed an internal short. So while I initially had a good fuse and bad clutch, I now had a good clutch and bad fuse. This was a huge relief because I was now questioning the quality of the parts I had just installed.
Anyway, A/C is all good after about an hour of test running. I bolted everything back up and re-installed the tire, and while I had probably 6-8 hours into the job, right now my time is less valuable than my money, and I saved ~$1,000.
If you take this job on, it is doable, but VERY uncomfortable if your rig is no jackstands. You will need an impact driver, penetrating fluid, extensions, a universal or wobbly sockets, a good light, a mirror, a good set of snap ring pliers, and a 1/4-20 (or likely other thread that is more appropriate) bolt to use as a puller! It can be done, but it a commitment. If I had disposable income, I would seriously have considered letting my trusted shop do the work while I sipped a drink on the deck with my wife and daughter, but money is tight, so I struggled and won!
I hope this helps someone in a similar situation.
Thanks and peace to you all!
Tim
Here is a link to the youtube video which shows the A/C clutch job well, but this compressor is much easier to access. Otherwise the actual clutch work is identical.
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