2000 Chevy Express 1500

I've read the posts about the GM Passlock security system (I'm pretty sure I have the Passlock II), and my van has similar, but not the same symptoms as described there!

I did have the same issue with the intermittent starting, but it always started eventually... now it won't start at all. It sounds like it catchs/starts, but then immediately dies (no 2-3 seconds). When I try to start it, the security light flashes about 4 times, and then stays solid on (does not even go out after 10 min or so)! I've tried the 10 min & 30 min re-lear,n without any success or change. I can hear the fuel pump kick on, so don't think it's that. The OBDII scanner shows NO fail codes coming up! I'm trying the 30 minutes with the battery disconnected again (I'm not sure if I gave it the full 30 min last time)! I really need some help!

I'm a Combat Marine that's 100% disabled (very bad day in Iraq, 2005), but I only get about 1/2 of my disability (lying, cheating, stealing Ex gets other half), so I don't have any money for a mechanic, and I'm not much of a contortionist anymore to be able to get under the dash! I have VA appointments tomorrow & Tuesday plus have surgery soon to fix an almost unusable arm (3 of 4 tendons in my "Shoulder-Cuff" are torn, plus a torn "Long Bicep Muscle")... so I really hope a resident expert here is paying attention and can help me get my van running again! If you're by Greeneville, TN and can help... I'll pay you what I can!!

 

Thank you for your service , sir.

Well I'm afraid that's what you may need to do. A locksmith might be able to help too.

You would need a professional tool to read the faults. The basic consumer stuff can't do it.
Try going to Autozone . They provide free diagnostic scans. Maybe their machine can do it.
You should get this done before continuing, to discover where the problem is, instead of replacing parts ***** nilly

While you're waiting you could looks for damaged/corroded wires/connectors.

Have you tried a spare key?
You should always keep one safe at home. Otherwise getting a new one will be much more complicated and expensive.

If the problem is not the key, then the problem is likely in the sensor or module, which will require replacement and relearn procedure.

But first get it scanned.

 

Also, since you're in TN. You could go visit Scotty in Clarksville. I think he works on vet's cars for free. You'll have to wait until he gets back from RI after the holidays though.

https://carkiller.com/scottykilmer/qa/contact/

 

 

So far as I know the symptoms of a passlock no-start can also be caused by a failed fuel pressure regulator. it cranks, it has fuel pressure, but it only coughs a bit, maybe enough to kick the solenoid out without actually starting. This is because the way the regulator works is when it fails, all fuel just goes back to the tank and none to the injectors.

The good news is you can check for this easily. Start fluid or even brake clean down the intake (take the cap off the air filter) and turn the key. If it then runs until it burns that off, it may be the regulator and nothing to do with passlock.

You can buy a regulator for like $20 on Rock Auto. The problem is replacing it requires removal of the upper intake manifold. That's a pain in the behind, the neck and both legs for anyone. About four hours labor on a pickup per some youtube videos. Some other things have to come off to be out of the way for the intake to come off.

 

I don't think a failed regulator does this:

 

it costs about three bucks for a can of stuff to spray in to rule it out.

The security light is on when you turn the key before the engine is started.

 

it turns on briefly for second or two.

It does not flash at you, and then stay on permanently like this owner described.

 

I have one dead in the driveway now that does all the stuff he described. Already ruled out the passlock.

OP likely has two choices, check to be sure it's not the regulator, which costs little and takes perhaps 60 seconds if the cap won't come off the filter box easily, or start tearing the column apart to add the resistor to bypass the deal. He could probably try having a new key made, too.

Not sure I get this resistance to double checking from somebody who thinks a 4L60E still has a TV cable.

 

In most cases, the security light means that the car no longer recognizes the key you’re using, so you may be able to bypass the problem by using a different key.
If a second key doesn’t fix the issue and the light is still on, then reprogram the anti-theft system.