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Vehicle Theft Deterrent, Passlock System - All previous posted methods failed

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Vehicle Theft Deterrent, Passlock System - All previous posted methods failed

Old October 2nd, 2011, 7:14 PM
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Default Vehicle Theft Deterrent, Passlock System - All previous posted methods failed

I'm having issues with the passlock system that is used in most Chevy (and GM for that matter) starting about 01-02. For my particular model (Cobalt 06) they go from 06-09. Hence why the post in general tech forum as its the same system in any model Chevy, only the year may differentiate which system you may have. With that out of the way...

Issue:
I was detailing the car, had all doors open, vacuuming, wiping down etc. for several hours. Afterwards, hopped in ready to ride around in my newly cleaned car, and inserted key, turned, and nothing. Anti-Theft light was blinking and thus the trouble-shooting started.

I've read SEVERAL other posts where people explain how to retrain or bypass the passlock system. I have tried disconnecting the battery, turning key to on position and leave for 10 mins till the light stops blinking x3 cycles (but the light never stops blinking for me), even considered the ohm/resister bypass. It seems people confuse the different systems (Passkey I, II, III and Passlock I, II and so on) But here's the thing:

The passlock system has a 2 part anti theft method: 1) Does not allow the starter to turn over 2) Shuts off the fuel injectors after a few seconds.

After tinkering with removing (-) battery cable, I was able to get the car to start - but it immediately dies. This is the second part of the security that turns off the fuel injectors. I have read up on this and learned that this is caused by the passlock sensors that are magnets housed around the key cylinder. I have already removed the ignition module located at opposite end of where you insert the key (black plastic device that houses a resister, circuit board, and multiple contacts that turn with the ignition switch) - it was like new and showed no signs of arching as others have mentioned. I did however clean everything up using a brass dremel brush on the contacts and DieElectric grease on all contact surfaces.


My question for the experts:

Is there a way to bypass the HAL magnet portion that surrounds the cylinder lock? This is the "L" shaped device on the key end of the ignition cylinder. I believe this to be the culprit because I can unplug this device and I get the same behavior (car starts, then stops after a few seconds). All attempts to retrain the system to accept the key fail because trying the various methods mentioned (turn key on, wait 10 mins until security light stops flashing) does not work because the light never stops flashing. I have left the key on for over an hour with a battery charger to keep things charged and still no luck.

Reading the various tutorials about locating the 3 wires, use an ohm meter, etc. don't seem to apply to this series because this device has 4 wires and are colored differently than pictured in the tutorials.

If bypassing is not an option, would replacing the device work? Is the device keyed or coded a certain way to only communicate with the BCM as a pair?

I have found parts for sale online, (GM lookup reports that particular item is discontinued and replaced with another part#). Both I can find online for a reasonable price, however I would rather bypass if possible as i'm not 100% sure this is the issue (it could be the magnet in the cylinder that the sensor senses?)

I realize this is a long post, I wanted to make sure anyone reading would not simply provide already tried/unnecessary info. Let me summarize my questions:

1)Can I bypass the HAL magnet passlock sensor with a resister? if not...
2)Will a replacement passlock sensor work with the current BCM &...
3)Should I get the original part # or use the new part# GM provides as a replacement for the discontinued original part?

Thanks to anyone that can help out in any way. I was actually detailing the car to SELL when this happened. I cannot afford to keep the car, much less take it to a dealer to repair for $600+.

Some background: No other symptoms to indicate the BCM is faulty (power locks, lights, trunk popping, etc. as others have mentioned experiencing)
-Automatic Trans
-About 6 months ago, the keylock issue suddenly happened (where shifter is in Park but the key will not turn off and release) I have been simply pressing the white button under the column ever since (thanks to this forum for that trick!) I've briefly TS'd that issue and it seems to be in the shifter as no current reaches the magnet that pulls the lever to release the key)

I'm placing links in the trackback section to some of the posts the contain particular info I used to come to the above conclusion - I may not be using this properly but I'm trying...
The GM Part # lookup page for the passlock sensor I am referring to is 15778671, replaced by 25807440, item 15 on list.
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Old October 2nd, 2011, 9:18 PM
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Welcome to the forum. You could have stopped right after "I'm having issues with the passlock system that is used in most Chevy (and GM for that matter) starting about 01-02. For my particular model (Cobalt 06)." Your vehicle has the PASS-Key III+ system which is based on the transponder chip embedded in the key. The theft deterrent control module (reader/exciter and logic), what the "4 wires" come from, replaces the old Passlock sensor. Unfortunately there's no manual procedure to force it to relearn from scratch without an already working key. If you don't have a working spare key, either tow it in or call an automotive locksmith.
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Old October 4th, 2011, 5:01 PM
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Thanks for the response, you may be correct as I'm not trained on TD system specifics - however I do not think I have the PassKEY III system for several reasons (mainly no PK3 stamped on the original set of keys as I have owned the car since new). I was able to fix the issue myself.

While i'm not sure which VTD system I have, a verbal explanation of the Passlock system matches exactly the symptoms I was experiencing. After figuring I had nothing to lose, and checking the connection TO the actual module multiple times, I opened the "L" shaped box mentioned above that collars around the key insertion side of column. I normally repair iPods, cellphones, laptops, etc. and know how to carefully open small, delicate devices - this one just had a few visable clips around the edges. I immediately saw a coil - of which I figured was the device that prevents a thief from holding a magnet to fool the HAL system (again, a component of the passlock system). An OHM meter registered very high resistance when placed on the 2 ends of the coil. Coils are resisters, in a sense, but I believe I was getting a reading from the rest of the circuitry as bringing a strong magnet near the coil made no change in the OHM reading.

Long story short, I re-wrapped the coil using the existing wire (was a real doing - thin as hair and cannot be shorted by accidentally removing the coating on the wire). While removing the coil wire as carefully as possible - I found 2 places where it was broken (making 3 separate wires). Soldered and hot glue as coating, kept winding till next break, same - almost certain It wouldn't work I didn't even put the thing back together. Slid it on the Ign., turned key and car started - and remained running. Checked the coil with the meter & now reads MUCH lower OHM reading than initially.

I cannot say what, how or when - but my best guess is the key was "linked" to the car since new, but after draining batt, having doors open long time cleaning, etc. it lost the link and resorted to a 2nd check during ignition and failed because of faulty coil. None of it makes sense to me, i'm a logical person - if it was broke the whole time then why did it work previously? If somehow I broke the coil while opening (again, do much more intricate items every day for a living, ever opened an ipod nano?) why was it not working prior to? Finally, once the coil was repaired, why did it not require re-linking as it simply started upon turning the key.

Not sure if this thread will help anyone else, but I've been driving around all day running errands after no car for 3 days. And while I had the column apart, I was able to "fix" the key stuck in ACC position at the same time. I say "FIX" because its not fixed correctly, I simply put a collar on the link that pulls the lever to always keep it in the open position. It will still pull from park to R, N, etc without foot on brake or even a key. But I don't have to run my finger up under the column each time I get out of the car.

Thanks for those who posted in previous threads which allowed me to resolve these issues.

-Sarcoise
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Old October 4th, 2011, 6:11 PM
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Thanks for the update. I must say it's bizarre that you say "no PK3 stamped on the original set of keys" (the stamping is a plus sign inside the circle on the blade just below the head) but I'll take your word for it. It sounds like you were able to repair the exciter coil. Good for you!
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Old October 26th, 2011, 8:11 AM
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Default Contact GM to issue a recall

Hello Folks

I spoke with the folks at GM on 10-25-2011.

Tel 1 800 458-8006

I was informed that if enough people call to inform them about the Pass Lock issue they will issue a recall to repair this defect.
I recently had the unfortunate experience of dealing with the folks listed below

Capital Cadillac
2210 Cobb Parkway
Smyrna, GA 30080
770 884-1810

These folks offer the Worse service I ever experienced. While waiting for my car to be repaired I spoke with people who had actually returned five times for the problems that were unresolved
I called their service department in July and scheduled an appointment.

My issue was a simple one. My vehicle (Hummer H3) randomly fails to turnover for no apparent reason. I did notice that the pass lock light appeared, and according to the manual you have to wait exactly ten minutes (ridiculous) before attempting to restart your vehicle. I thought this was really insane. It had happened three times during the month of July.

I decided to do a Google search and to my surprise I found that a large number of folks who own the Hummer series along with many other Chevy customers have been experiencing the same issue. I made copies of a large number of complaints and took them with me to show them to the service manager at the dealership listed above. They told me they have never heard of this issue and this is a first. I was shocked and offered to show them the copies I had made from the web detailing the issues experienced by hundreds of customers and they were not interested.

They were definitely interested in getting a $125.00 fee to place the vehicle on the computer and run a check. Anyway, $452.00 later the vehicle was returned to me with a new battery among other things. I thought my problem was resolved. Two weeks later the same thing happened again. I was out a restaurant with my wife and had to wait ten minutes to start the car after trying to leave.

I contacted the dealership again and they asked if I can bring the vehicle back and leave it for a few days to try and isolate the problem. This meant I would need to rent a vehicle while they figure out a way to rob me again. There is no way I would do any further business with those crooks

I am infuriated that this is a problem experienced by most Chevy owners and GM is not willing to acknowledge it. Instead, they continue to charge loyal customers exorbitant amounts of money to fix an issue which is undeniably a legitimate manufacturer's defect.
I am asking everyone to call the 800 number listed at the beginning of this issue and complain loudly and force GM to do the right thing.

Any they wonder why folks don't buy American cars. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

<o></o>
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Old April 30th, 2012, 4:13 PM
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Default TDM issues on gm

My 2000 chev malibu was stalling/ not starting. Took in for new plugs and It was the sensor on the cylinder. Spent $390 to have a new cylinder installed and now No start. Took back and now its the housing. Which I asked them to do but they told me it was not necessary. Another $400. I've been researching a work around that will completely bypass the TDM but the only thing I have found is a company New rockies inc. that sells a 'PRO GM VATS/PassKey/PassLock Full Bypass Module' looks like they have a patent on it.
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Old April 17th, 2014, 11:04 PM
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I got a 1998 chevy cavalier lost the key so removed lock cylinder brought it in to lock smith they made new key put it back in everything i took apart back together never broke amything go to start car nothing red light is constantly on in key run psition what can i do to reset this on my back yard with no computer
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Old April 18th, 2014, 8:13 AM
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removing the lock cylinder has caused the car to enter tamper mode.


you must perform a tamper mode cycle. Ideally, all dtc should be cleared before starting this procedure. turn the key to run. the theft light will flash for 10mins. when the indicator stops flashing. turn the key off. then start the car.
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Old April 18th, 2014, 8:45 PM
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Originally Posted by tech2 View Post
removing the lock cylinder has caused the car to enter tamper mode.

Ok
you must perform a tamper mode cycle. Ideally, all dtc should be cleared before starting this procedure. turn the key to run. the theft light will flash for 10mins. when the indicator stops flashing. turn the key off. then start the car.
Ok i took disconected battery for a few min hooked it back up turn the key to run position but the light is not flashing it stays on constantly when in run position but does flash when i turn it off
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Old April 18th, 2014, 8:50 PM
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Ok i disconnected battery for a few min to clear computer but when i put the key in the run position the light stays solid it does not flash but is flashing until it reaches the run position ?
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