CRDuncan

My 2002 had the passlock problem. I cured it with a remote start kit I bought over the internet and installed. It basically gets in series with the 2 little wires on the back of the key cylinder and learns the correct voltage. The only concern I have is if my battery dies I may have to do a relearn to get it working again. But for now everything is great.

barose

<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8"><meta name="ProgId" content="Word.Document"><meta name="Generator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><meta name="Originator" content="Microsoft Word 9"><link rel="File-List" href="file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Brian/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/msoclip1/01/clip_filelist.xml"><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml> <w:WordDocument> <w:View>Normal</w:View> <w:Zoom>0</w:Zoom> <woNotOptimizeForBrowser/> </w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--><style> <!-- /* Style Definitions */ p.MsoNormal, li.MsoNormal, div.MsoNormal {mso-style-parent:""; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:none; mso-layout-grid-align:none; punctuation-wrap:simple; text-autospace:none; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning:14.0pt;} h1 {mso-style-next:Normal; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:none; page-break-after:avoid; mso-outline-level:1; mso-layout-grid-align:none; punctuation-wrap:simple; text-autospace:none; font-size:14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt; font-family:Arial; mso-font-kerning:14.0pt; font-weight:normal;} h2 {margin-right:0in; mso-margin-top-alt:auto; mso-margin-bottom-alt:auto; margin-left:0in; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; mso-outline-level:2; font-size:18.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman";} h3 {mso-style-next:Normal; margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; text-align:center; mso-pagination:none; page-break-after:avoid; mso-outline-level:3; mso-layout-grid-align:none; punctuation-wrap:simple; text-autospace:none; font-size:48.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt; font-family:Arial; mso-font-kerning:14.0pt; font-weight:normal;} p.MsoTitle, li.MsoTitle, div.MsoTitle {margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; text-align:center; mso-pagination:none; mso-layout-grid-align:none; punctuation-wrap:simple; text-autospace:none; font-size:14.0pt; mso-bidi-font-size:10.0pt; font-family:Arial; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning:14.0pt; mso-ansi-language:EN-GB;} p.MsoBodyText, li.MsoBodyText, div.MsoBodyText {margin:0in; margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:none; mso-layout-grid-align:none; punctuation-wrap:simple; text-autospace:none; font-size:12.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-font-kerning:14.0pt; mso-ansi-language:EN-GB;} span.bodyfont {mso-style-name:bodyfont;} @page Section1 {size:595.2pt 841.75pt; margin:.5in .7in 58.3pt .7in; mso-header-margin:.5in; mso-footer-margin:.5in; mso-page-numbers:1; mso-paper-source:0;} div.Section1 {page:Section1;} --> </style> I tried the resistor installation method to help my problem. Removed the dash and other panels and ignition switch. Checked what resistance was needed (1800 ohms), and installed it into the system. Absolutely no difference. I still get the security/battery/service-engine- soon sequence while driving. Also strange happenings on the radio (when switched off) and other warning lights etc.<o></o>
Can anyone suggest a direction to go to fix this problem.<o></o>

AdamLaPin

I am having the same problem with my 2000 Impala it wont even start now. The tale lights were not even coming on the last time i got it started so i dont know I didnt c anybody else mention anything like that. So i dont know if i have more than one problem? Please help if u can! Anybody! Thanks

eightmin

Thanks jondoe28, I did the ignition repair and so far the car seems to be fine. I did find several of the contacts slightly burned. Cleaned them up and car starts everytime. For those looking to find out how to remove the ignition switch, I found this page that will help you out http://www.fixya.com/cars/t937221-20...gnition_switch

Jim Hughes

I am the closest thing to an electronics expert we have in this area, and I have been having problems with some of my friends vehicles, the main one now is a '99 silverado. My e-mail address is jhughes@ms.metrocast.net, if you could send me the diagram you mentioned with resistance values I and my friend would be greatful.

nomadbreez

I have been a Chevy fan for 40 years, bought five new trucks in my life and all have been very good. My son inherited a 2003 Impala when his grandmother
died, it only had 32k miles on it. This passlock thing is happening more often, I would like to fix it for him before he goes to collage in Sept. Now I have been told my 2004 Silverado will get the same problem, the speedometer has stopped working and I wounder what will be next...
GM has turned its back on us, I have read hundreds of threads about this, people getting ripped off by the dealers on expensive fixes that don't work,
Gm techs posting but not offering how to fix, because they don't know how to fix something that was so poorly designed.
My son thinks GM has changed it's ways with the restructuring, but I have a very bad taste in my mouth for GM now. Many of posts I read said they will never buy GM again....hate to say it but I am starting to feel the same way...
I wish the days of points and condensers would come back, no electronic BS.

timson

This is the final solution to fix the Passlock II problem on my 2002 Impala.

As someone else already found out, the cheap tin plated contacts of the passlock sensor are causing all the problems not starting the car and having the security light on. Detailed explanation here:
http://general-motors.pissedconsumer...502119601.html

Fix:
Solder some new similar wires (yellow, white and black) directly to the little tin contacts of the passlock sensor that is embedded in the ignition switch lock cylinder.


How to get there:
- Remove all the panels necessary to remove the ignition switch unit from the dashboard
- find the 3 wires to the passlock sensor (white, black and yellow) and cut them anywhere.
- once you have the ignition switch in the hand, remove all attached cables and clips, etc.
- with the unit in your hand and the key inside and turned to ON, push a screwdriver in a small rectangle notch while pulling on the key and lock cylinder, to get the lock cylinder out (bit tricky, but do-able)
- once lock cylinder is out, only now you can detach the passlock sensor connector with the three wires (yellow, black and white) from the ignition switch housing.
- compare the passlock sensor tin contact with the matching connector to find out which wire has to be soldered to which contact.
- go to a soldering professional to have some similar colored wires soldered directly to the tin contacts of the passlock sensor. I found one at a computer store and he charged me 8$ for the 10 min work. Make sure he fills the space between the soldered parts with silicon.
- finally put everything back together and connect the new wires with the previous cut wires
- now try to start the car, it probably wont, because the key has to be relearned:

1. Turn ON the igniton, with the engine OFF.

2. Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).

3. Observe the SECURITY telltale, it will be flashing. After approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.

4. Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.

5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 two more times for a total of 3 cycles/30 minutes. The vehicle is now ready to relearn the PASSlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords, on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.

IMPORTANT: The vehicle learns the PASSlock Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You MUST turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.

6. Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the PASSlock Sensor Data Code and/or password.

I know this is more for the advanced mechanics. It worked for my 2002 Impala 3.8 with Police Package and I am driving for over three month now and never have to fear the terrible security light anymore! The resistor method did not work for me and I don't think it works at all for the models above 1999. In my case, it was the problem with the corroded tin contacts between the passlock sensor and the passlock wires connector. Some others say that the bcm has to be replaced, etc. I don't believe in this unless their bcm had some water leaked into. My bcm looked all good, when I opened it.

Best wishes and greetings from Quebec!

corrick

ok what you are saying does not make sense you first said that the passlock had nothing to do with the ignition but now you are saying it does so what is it yes it does or no it does not ?????????

Bdog19

I am now a new member of this PassLock crap...If GM is still ignoring this as a safety issue they need to think again. I too was stranded with my family out on the road. I actually had someone jump me after trying several times to use the relearn method. This was the second time this week and the jump start worked each time when the relearn did not.

There must be a way we can bring about a civil lawsuit or petition against this. This is not an issue that should be happening, this really is a safety issue. GM should own up to this before a family gets into real trouble, perhaps as one of the previous members was stranded in very cold weather with her family....Not cool (well actually it was very cold, but you know what I mean). What if a family needed gas and had to pull over into a less than desirable location and this happened? There are many more situations where lives and property can be at risk because the forced upon security system fails.

I do hope folks from GM are reading these posts, and giving serious consideration....I also posted in the Chevy Impala Forums : 2011 Impala Forum . All they need to do is provide a $20 bypass module and no more than .5 hrs of labor to cure this problem. It's a lot cheaper than someone freezing to death, mugged, or not making it to a hospital if one is in need.

I'm still not seeing an absolute solution...people just seem to be trying anecdotes.

1995Scarab

Hey guys... This is probably one for the experts... Soooo... My friend has a 2000 Tahoe Limited 2WD Automatic on which the Security Light comes on and the truck will only run for a second and does not reset after the usual ten minutes process... It is one which was built in Arlington, TX and the keys do not have a resistor on them to be sensed... Not sure if this qualifies it as a PassLock I or not but most posting refer to sensor problems and resistor values... Is it possible that the ignition only senses that there is a key in the ignition, possible bad switch, and that information is passed to the BCM or even a faulty BCM... Any help in the diagnosis would be greatly appreciated...

Thanks, Karl