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4T65E Transmission Issue. Help

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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 5:55 PM
  #11  
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An additional comment that I think is important... The previous owner gave me the car because of a bad motor. The motor was replaced about a month ago....runs great...no codes..passes PA Emissions. So the fact that he would cover up a bad tranny is mute. It could be bad...but again I ...at this point cant buy it.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 5:59 PM
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...the car was given to me and it had a bad motor. Motor was replaced and it runs great. The fact that he covered a bad tranny up is mute at this point. It could be bad....but I still cant buy that just yet.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 6:19 PM
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Originally Posted by kevinkpk
Why do you need to cross post?
I didn't mean to "cross post" but I now see what you mean. I was ignoring posts in the "New Member Welcome Area" since that section is for welcome threads per the website policies.

Originally Posted by tplp02
I happen to know the previous owner, and he was older and believe me he isn't this smart. He took care of the car...but I dont know when the last time he had the tranny fluid changed. I can tell you he changed the engine oil every 3000 miles LOL. As stated in my original post...I am able to increase the PC Solenoid using a scanner. I increase it only by 10% and the shutter goes away. Also, when I manually put the tranny in 1st gear with the gear shift, it also goes away. Also, it only happens under an uphill load and under moderate to hard acceleration. There was no additive in the fluid as I'm sure you know, you can tell when there is an additive such as Lucas in the fluid. Everyone wants to tell me that its a rebuild job...and that is an easy answer. I refuse to swallow this with my symptoms...obviously GM thinks this also. If i had the obvious symptoms of a worn trans axle and it wasn't so sudden, with great fluid and no symptoms before the change I could buy a rebuild as a fix. I will do a rebuild if needed, I did have a trannny expert (23 Years take it for a drive. He even said that the symtoms didnt point to a clutch problem. However I had a bad mount and he said that he couldnt do a proper diagnosis with a bad mount. SO I changed all the mounts and the TPS and the symptoms improved but they are still there.
With the additional information, I really don't have an opinion one way or the other. Again, for the problem "so sudden, with great fluid and no symptoms before the change," maybe it had DEXRON-VI and you went back to DEXRON-III? Anyway, I would advise you to clean and inspect the valve body thoroughly while you do the solenoid kit, though.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 6:24 PM
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Once again I appreciate your time, knowledge and help. You may be correct in your opinion although I hope you are not. LOL I am open to all suggestions / arguments. No thin skin here. I am hoping for a person who is VERY familiar with the 4T65E or someone who has had the same experience and found a fix.
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Old Oct 30, 2011 | 8:06 PM
  #15  
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I wish I could do more, but you know alot more about this issue than I do. All I can do is to point out the small overlooked things. That might also be what you should (for I know the 4th time) do. I hope you get this resolved, I might add since you found this forum, you might also look at something Buick for help.
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by tplp02
Once again I appreciate your time, knowledge and help. You may be correct in your opinion although I hope you are not. LOL I am open to all suggestions / arguments. No thin skin here. I am hoping for a person who is VERY familiar with the 4T65E or someone who has had the same experience and found a fix.
Any update on this? Are you still working on the issue?
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 1:15 PM
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Thanks, and yes i am still working on it. Everything seems to point to the EPS as my research has found that these solenoids are faulty do to the armature in them, and they can malfunction even with a clean and well taken care of transmission. I have installed a cooler, which seems to help some and the chatter from stop has mostly subsided. My next step is to "partially" install the Transgo KT465E Shift kit and put new pistons/seals in the 1-2 and 2-3 accumulator. Again through research, many have said that this has fully stopped their (and my) symptoms. I have also used Seafoam TransTune twice and changed the fluid/filter. Pan/magnet were spotless. After I install the shift kit, I plan to borrow a Tech II Scanner form a friend and clear all T.A.P. values and reset the PCM so it can learn new shift cells. If this fails, I am going to have to do what I have dreaded form the start...and that is to drop the damn thing. If I do, its going to be a complete rebuild with all the latest updates to include the seals, shafts, clutches, steels and servos and anything else. If / when this happens, I already have a new EPS, 2 Shift solenoids, pressure manifold switch and speed sensor, so they will get replaced also. I found someone who say thay will do it for 1500.00 to include R and R and a 12/12 warranty. I consider this a very good deal from a very reputable shop.

Thanks....and any input is welcome. Tom
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Old Nov 21, 2011 | 5:19 PM
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Good to hear you haven't just dumped your vehicle like I would have. Thanks for the update.
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Old Nov 22, 2011 | 5:38 PM
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I hope you didn't replace all of those parts without first trying another trans.filter and seal. I have seen the crimp ( mostly cheaper brands) on the filter between the plastic top of filter and metal bottom be cracked, or not crimped properly, thus allowing trans oil, that's suppose to go up into the trans., spill back out into the pan. And most likely your filter could be defective in the very front- why it mainly does it on a grade. It's sucking air instead of fluid starving the forward clutch for fluid to keep it engaged. Thus the jumping and stuttering. Good luck
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Old Sep 5, 2012 | 8:49 PM
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Originally Posted by TransDr2759
I hope you didn't replace all of those parts without first trying another trans.filter and seal. I have seen the crimp ( mostly cheaper brands) on the filter between the plastic top of filter and metal bottom be cracked, or not crimped properly, thus allowing trans oil, that's suppose to go up into the trans., spill back out into the pan. And most likely your filter could be defective in the very front- why it mainly does it on a grade. It's sucking air instead of fluid starving the forward clutch for fluid to keep it engaged. Thus the jumping and stuttering. Good luck
Would this then explain the air bubbles in the trans fuild? Under load up hill I will break into a shutter after 20 to 30 seconds of incline. If I let off the gas for 10 or 15 sec it will gather itself back up and I can excellerate again. During a shutter I can also put it in neutral and rev it and it seems fine until I put it back in drive.
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