Well my k5 is almost ready to be back on the road. In the past couple days I've converted my np203 to a part time transfer case and I rebuilt my th400 and beefed it up quite a bit. Heres a few pics: (Ignore the dates on the pictures their wrong)

Np203

Stripped out dif case with output shaft


Mile Marker 4x2 kit installed locking the output shaft and dif carrier as one piece.







Th400


Converted my garage into a small trans shop.




Made my own pump puller








With some quick thinking a shop press turns into a transmission spring press.


All put back together and painted ready for abuse.

I have like 2000 more pictures of my trans rebuild but this is enough, this trans should take up to 800ft lbs of torque now. Its dual fed, has an upgraded 4l80e direct drum with 6 frictions instead of 4, 34 element sprag, spiral sprag snap ring for high rpm, kevlar bands, shift kit. Can't wait to put it in the truck.

 

Dude, congrats on the rebuild, awesome pic thread to.

 

sweet..now lets see some mudding or burnout videos..which ever you choose.

 

Ill post some as soon as I get everything back in the truck, and before I drop the axles.

 

how much did it cost to rebuid it

 

The HP rebuild kit was $180 it came with all new seals, o-rings, gaskets, alto red clutches, steels, kevlar bands, modulator, ect, the 34 element sprag was $60, and since it was a 2wd trans I had to buy a 4wd output shaft which was $120. I also bought a 4l80e direct drum so I could use the 34 element sprag but as it turns out who ever rebuilt this trans before me already converted it to a stronger sprag style so I'm gonna return the direct drum which was $80 and the sprag. And then I bought a 4l80e style spiral snap ring to hold the sprag in place. anything over 5000 rpm and the c-clip style snap ring starts to expand and it could fail. Since my engine can do 8000 rpm no problems I decided to upgrade. You can only get those at a GM stealership for $20. Then I bought a 3500-3800 stall jegs racing torque converter for $215.

The dual feed mod is basically free, all you do is leave out the center direct drum seal and the second center support sealing ring and then use a 3/8" cup plug to block off the hole on the right side of the center support bolt. I was also going to block off the acumulator for a very very positive 2-3 shift but I decided not to do it in order to save the transfer case. I was also going to drill out the 2nd and 3rd oil feed holes in the valve body spacer plate for firmer shifts but someone else already installed a shift kit spacer plate with bigger feed holes. Whats all this mean? The 1-2 shift will squak the tires and the 2-3 shift will slam your head into the windshield.

So anyway all together it was $320 plus $215 for the converter. Much better than the $1500 I was quoted for at a trans shop and that doesnt include a converter.

 

Heres an update, since the output shaft I bought can be used with either an np205 or np203 it has to be cut shorter for the 203. Heres the test fit:



I got all new grade 8 bolts, and lots of red locktite. I'm not really looking forward to lifting that 300lb transfer case up into the truck tomorrow but it'll be worth it. one step closer...

 

not a bad price...... too bad idk how to rebuild trans.... i want to rebuild mine. or i could just go buy a diesel and swap it...

 

This is only the third automatic trans I've built. I built a 4l60e in school, last summer I built the 700r4 that was originally in my k5, and now I built this th400. The only diffrence with the th400 is that this is the first one I've built that actually has to work. I'm pretty confident that everything is good, it was actually very easy, theres not really much to a th400, and I've been told that the th350 is pretty much just as easy.

 

Nice looking work and nice shop as well, how do you keep it so organized? When I'm working on something tools are scattered everywhere.