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Old Jul 29, 2015, 11:26 AM
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Tie rod replacement

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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 5:30 PM
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Default Tie rod replacement

I have a 2002 Silverado C1500 2WD 5.3L truck. I am going to replace both inner and outer tie rods on the front.

My question is what should I also replace along with it? I do not want to find myself getting back in there to replace a bushing or a knuckle I should have changed along with it.

I am also at odds deciding between three brands. Moog, Deeza, or Autozone brand.

Everyone seems to say Moog is a premium quality. Autozone I could get right now and do it this weekend and I do not know anything about Deeza except the price is pretty good.

Last edited by vmabuck; Feb 7, 2013 at 5:35 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 5:43 PM
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do a front suspension check to rule out bad ball joints or wheel bearings.

What type of steering linkage set-up do you have, rack and pinion or parrallelogram?

you will need an alignment afterwards.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 5:50 PM
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He probably has the rack and pinion system. Like mentioned above, check the entire suspension. Usually the ball joints need to be replaced soon after the tie rods. Look for any protective boots that are busted open and/or leaking grease. The job will be alot easier if you rent the inner tie rod tool from autozone. I would go with the moog parts. Autozone parts I never buy, and the other brand, never seen at a major parts store.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 10:22 PM
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Moog is the better brand... put them on the wife's minivan... they will also come with the grease zerks, some of the lesser brands may not be grease able....

And for sure get the proper tool to remove it, don't try beating it out, it ain't worth the time... I know I tried 45 min jacking with first side... 10 min on the other side with a proper tool... I used a small gear puller....

Its not an exact science, but count the number of twist it takes to take the old one off, and put the new one on the same number of turns....

Last edited by in2pro; Feb 7, 2013 at 10:25 PM.
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by in2pro
Moog is the better brand... put them on the wife's minivan... they will also come with the grease zerks, some of the lesser brands may not be grease able....

And for sure get the proper tool to remove it, don't try beating it out, it ain't worth the time... I know I tried 45 min jacking with first side... 10 min on the other side with a proper tool... I used a small gear puller....

Its not an exact science, but count the number of twist it takes to take the old one off, and put the new one on the same number of turns....
where were you hitting?
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by tech2
where were you hitting?
After removing the retaining nut that holds the knuckle part in the wheel assembly.... yes I know, you shouldn't beat on it as you can bend the or even break the wheel assembly and put undue stress on the ball joint....
They were only firm taps in hopes it would pop out so I didn't have to figure out where my puller was...
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 8:15 PM
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Im still not sure what part you were hitting on the knuckle. The only part that is attached to the knuckle when doing this type of job is the outter tie rod, which should pop out with little effort.
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Old Feb 8, 2013 | 10:58 PM
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should pop out with little effort

Should, being the operative word...they were seated in very well after 10 years of use...almost like a press fit...
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