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Old Jul 22, 2015, 10:12 AM
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07 4WD Actuator

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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 9:14 AM
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Default 07 4WD Actuator

Hello Everyone,
I would like to ask your input in regards to a situation I am going through with my 07 Tahoe LT.
Recently the Service Four Wheel Drive light came on and has stayed on. A mechanic read the codes as DTC: C0306 and C0327 and suggested that I change the 4WD actuator.
No problem, easy enough just take the old one out and screw the new on in.
Until this happened:
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Yes, the Actuator snapped off at the threads with very little pressure applied - it must have been defective but Chevy dealership will not replace. No problem I already purchased another unit and was installing it anyway. It took several hours with plumbers wrenches trying to get the threads of the broken piece to budge with no luck. Being very cautious of the aluminum threads I found a chisel that barely fit inside the broken piece and was able to tap it in and remove the broken actuator threads.
So the broken piece still inside and what I believe were parts of the actuator spilled onto the ground near me. The parts that fell were a thin shaft, spring, washers and a machined piece.
Please see illustration below. I believe that the parts that fell out were:
10 - 11 - 12 - 13 from the illustration
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I hate to admit this but at the time when the parts fell to the ground I assumed that they were part of the inner workings of the faulty actuator, but having done more research it appears that they may be part of the Front Drive Axle Tube Assembly that fell out. This is where I need advise. I am reluctant to remove the drive axle tube, I am fearful of other gears / components falling out as well. Does anyone know how the axle tube assembly and the related parts # 10 - 11 - 12 & 13, come together or are reassembled?
I guess another question for you would be when installing an actuator should there have been a metal rod like piece sticking out from the differential unit into the axle tube for the actuator?
Sorry guys I know just enough to be dangerous at times and from what I was told it was remove the old actuator and replace it with the new one. I did not ever think that this would happen.
Thank you for your time viewing my post.

Just found some more photos of the situation for you to view:
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Last edited by BullDawg30; Jun 2, 2015 at 9:17 AM. Reason: added more photos
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 11:19 AM
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Good pics and descriptions. I wish I knew the answer you seek. (and that everyone would post such good photos of their situation). At first I thought the "made in Mexico" was a joke photo
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 11:32 AM
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Default @ SabrToothSqrl

As soon as I saw "Made In Mexico" I knew what the problem was - NAFTA. Low waged employees producing what we expect to be high quality replacement parts.
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Old Jun 2, 2015 | 12:41 PM
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Default Gm

Good thing we all bought 'American' vehicles.
My wife's grandfather tried to give her crap for the Mazda... I pointed to the assembled in sticker.
And showed him his Yukon was made in Mexico... while the Tribute was made by Ford at a US plant. (I don't recall the state off hand).

Last edited by SabrToothSqrl; Jun 2, 2015 at 12:47 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 9:24 AM
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@SabrToothSqrl
It looks as if it's only you and I in this conversation. With that being said I'd like to get your opinion on my plan of action.
Since I am not sure what parts, if any, fell from the Front Differential Axle Center Housing I am thinking of purchasing a new OEM part and installing it.
Also the Transfer Case Shift / Encoder Motor will be purchased OEM part and installed.
At least with these two items installed, new OEM parts I believe that I can eliminate the two components as potential problems.
A bit costly for the parts and time intensive for the labor. Good news is while it's warm I can get it done and hopefully correct the problem with the DTC codes C0306 and C0327
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 10:18 AM
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I'm no expert, but I do like fixing stuff.

Are you still seeing the codes? I hate to replace parts that may not be broke.

Do you use 4WD often? I'm in PA, and have used it maybe 2-3x a season. Ohh and 4-low last summer when I ended up in a ditch while still attached to my boat! (poor parking lot layout).

Anyway, I'd be tempted to see what works for a while, let the dust settle, then come up with a plan of action. I recognize that often I jump into fixing stuff and end up buying things I don't need or doing things twice (or 3x) because I didn't take the extra day to think it through. My guess is you'd be stuck with 2WD, but still a working vehicle.

I wouldn't want random broken parts to cause an issue later, but it sounds like you'll be replacing most of the assemblies anyway.

Seems like a logical plan of attack, generally speaking start with the cheapest part, see if that fixes it, then work your way up.

Wish I could help more.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 10:49 AM
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The 4 wheel drive does not work at this time.












When I replaced the front axle actuator and had the problem, I assume that the differential became stuck engaged and that was what I believe was part of the problem when the old actuator failed and broke in the axle housing. I believe that the parts that came out with the broken actuator were part of the assembly from the differential that engages the actuator / front wheels. That being said replacing the Front Drive Axle components could remedy one part of the problem. The other part is that the four wheel drive would not engage. With close to 100,000 miles on the vehicle, I feel it best to replace the Encoder / Transfer Case Shift motor with a new OEM motor and sensor. My thought process is even if it does not correct / fix the problem, having new OEM parts in place will allow me to eliminate them as a part of the problem and begin trouble shooting the TCCM module behind the dash as the only other possibility for failure. When I replace the Front Axle parts I plan on replacing the seals and changing the differential fluid - which by the way is grey and contaminated. Water / Moisture must have gotten into the differential from a seal / gasket. A couple of hours on my back busting knuckles and learning more can't hurt unless I screw up big time. I am hoping to get some time at my friends garage to do the front axle seal / gasket replacements, it looks like you have to disconnect the cv joint to get at the seal on the drivers side. Other than that is appears to be a fix I should be capable of doing, at least that is how it looked on Youtube. LOL I plan on running the vehicle for as long as possible due to financial constraints. What surprises me the most is the after market warranty company to date has refused each and every repair request. When I bought the vehicle the dealership stated that this company was the best in the area to deal with. I guess he got his kick back from them but lost a loyal customer in the process. Having bought three vehicles from them I will never visit their lot again.
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Old Jun 3, 2015 | 11:37 AM
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I'd go after the warranty company... obviously that doesn't fix the part, but if you paid for something you aren't getting... I'd be a little ticked.

Agreed, replacing parts with known working parts will help isolate the issue.
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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 11:57 AM
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What about buying a used actuator from a junkyard and taking it apart to see if the parts that fell out are part of the actuator? If they are, then just replacing it might be the fix.
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Old Jun 8, 2015 | 7:26 AM
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Originally Posted by intheknow
What about buying a used actuator from a junkyard and taking it apart to see if the parts that fell out are part of the actuator? If they are, then just replacing it might be the fix.
Not sure on pricing, but the last time I called a junk yard for headlights for a 1996 Ford Contour (I think it was a Contour). Anyway, they wanted like $100/each.

NEW they were $50 on Amazon. I told the guy he was nuts and good luck w/his junk yard.
Sure they were not OEM, but they were also not 10 years old!
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