07" Suburban oil gulping!
Info is great. I'm going to talk to Chevy and see if they will pay half to have the valve cover and deflector installed. I'm out of warranty but I'd like Chevy to do it as they know the problem. The chances they will help me are small I know but if you don't ask at least I'll have tried. I wonder how much it will be anyway. My neighbor is a decent Mec but not trained or certified. He's does most of the maintenance for me. Depending on what Chevy says I'm going to have him do the switch. The trend will give him what he needs to know. I'll let you know what Chevy says.
An update on my original post. After chevy soaked the cylinders, back to normal oil consumption, about a qt between oil changes. No more blue smoke upon start up. Did have low oil pressure come on a couple months after. Changed the oil pressure switch and cleaned the clogged screen. Oil pressure back to normal. So far so good!
Excellent news.
I had a delay in tackling this. The forward sprag assembly broke in my trans at 202K miles so I spent the last couple weeks pulling the trans, rebuilding it and reinstalling it. The good news is at 202K miles, the friction clutches and steels were still within specs. The 2-4 band was in great shape except for at the ends. It wore the friction material down to the spot weld bumps. I air tested the clutch engagement pistons and there were no leaks. I was very surprised at how well the 4L60e held up.
I figured while I was at it, I'd go ahead and soak the pistons and add the deflector as well. It's really not to difficult other than trying to get that right rear (#8) spark plug out and back in! I removed and reinstalled the pan while up on Rhino ramps and using a low profile creeper. Plenty of room.
I actually had to replace the oil pressure switch a couple month ago as it was flopping between 0 and 80. I ended up removing the intake manifold to get to it. The LTZ has a sound dampening panel bolted to the back of the intake making it next to impossible to get to the switch without removing the manifold.
Excellent news.
I had a delay in tackling this. The forward sprag assembly broke in my trans at 202K miles so I spent the last couple weeks pulling the trans, rebuilding it and reinstalling it. The good news is at 202K miles, the friction clutches and steels were still within specs. The 2-4 band was in great shape except for at the ends. It wore the friction material down to the spot weld bumps. I air tested the clutch engagement pistons and there were no leaks. I was very surprised at how well the 4L60e held up.
I figured while I was at it, I'd go ahead and soak the pistons and add the deflector as well. It's really not to difficult other than trying to get that right rear (#8) spark plug out and back in! I removed and reinstalled the pan while up on Rhino ramps and using a low profile creeper. Plenty of room.
I actually had to replace the oil pressure switch a couple month ago as it was flopping between 0 and 80. I ended up removing the intake manifold to get to it. The LTZ has a sound dampening panel bolted to the back of the intake making it next to impossible to get to the switch without removing the manifold.
I had a delay in tackling this. The forward sprag assembly broke in my trans at 202K miles so I spent the last couple weeks pulling the trans, rebuilding it and reinstalling it. The good news is at 202K miles, the friction clutches and steels were still within specs. The 2-4 band was in great shape except for at the ends. It wore the friction material down to the spot weld bumps. I air tested the clutch engagement pistons and there were no leaks. I was very surprised at how well the 4L60e held up.
I figured while I was at it, I'd go ahead and soak the pistons and add the deflector as well. It's really not to difficult other than trying to get that right rear (#8) spark plug out and back in! I removed and reinstalled the pan while up on Rhino ramps and using a low profile creeper. Plenty of room.
I actually had to replace the oil pressure switch a couple month ago as it was flopping between 0 and 80. I ended up removing the intake manifold to get to it. The LTZ has a sound dampening panel bolted to the back of the intake making it next to impossible to get to the switch without removing the manifold.
Do you tow much with your vehicle? The 4L60E tranny gives good performance, although I highly recommend installing an external cooler to keep the temp well below 200 degrees and replace that synthetic fluid every 30K to keep the friction modifiers at optimum performance levels.....but this conversation really should be for another thread.
I stopped by the dealer last fall to talk to them about the oil consumption issue. I had already seen the TSB and was told that I would have to come in and have the oil changed and come back every 1000 miles to verify that it was using a quart every 3000 miles and there was no guarantee that GM would cover it,( 07 with 78,000 miles). I decided to do it myself and stopped by the dealer again today to pick up the oil relief shield. Parts told me I had to go to service as they handled all parts related to TSBs. The service guy looked up the TSB to get the part number and gave me a copy of all related TSBs. The latest TSB is #10-06-01-008M, dated Nov 26 2014. It no longer calls for verification of oil consumption. It says, " if the customer feels the consumption level is excessive, more than 1 quart per 1000 to 2000 miles of driving preform the service indicated in this bulletin. It is no longer necessary to have the customer return multiple times to have the usage verified". It also says the TSB has been revised to update warranty information. Does that mean vehicles over the warranty, 100,000 mi/ 60 months will be covered? I didn't notice the change until I got home and read all the TSBs.
I was going to order the parts for my AFM engine but when I put in part# for the valve cover (12570427) it says that part won't fit a 2007 AFM Tahoe. It says will fit avalanche but not Tahoe. Also was CheapestGMparts web site. I might be understanding it wrong but I absolutely don't want to buy the wrong part. It just takes to long for returns Etc......... Any thoughts anyone? 2007 Tahoe 5.3 AFM Flex fuel 4x4.
12570427 is what I find listed on GM parts direct site for the 07 Tahoe....
Amazon has it listed but does not specify what vehicles it fits, however you could ask the seller to confirm the fit via your VIN...
I think it is the correct part... as I have it in my Amazon cart for my 07 Tahoe.. Im not seeing the consumption issues since disabling my AFM so I don't think I am having any issues with the PCV at this time...
Amazon has it listed but does not specify what vehicles it fits, however you could ask the seller to confirm the fit via your VIN...
I think it is the correct part... as I have it in my Amazon cart for my 07 Tahoe.. Im not seeing the consumption issues since disabling my AFM so I don't think I am having any issues with the PCV at this time...
On further reading on this thread it looks like the bulk of the hours to install the deflecter is because the diff is in the way. I had a 2.5 inch inch front and 2 inch in back spacers put in years ago to level the ride. I'm wandering if that will be enough to avoid removing diff and saving $$$ or hinder it and spend even more $$$. Anyone out there done the repair and know the specs on the roominess under there?
I've ordered the replacement valve cover and deflecter and am planning to have someone do the work. The valve cover seems straightforward remove and replace. I'm going to have somebody do that separately so there may be a time gap between the two , not to long though or is it something both have to be done same time?



