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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

2008 Suburban should i get a new engine or what?

Old June 10th, 2019, 3:21 PM
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Default 2008 Suburban should i get a new engine or what?

I'm not sure what to do. Any suggestions appreciated.

2008 Suburban- 157,000 miles
new tires - 2018
new brakes -2018
new battery - 2018
Just had body work done - no rust or scratches / new hood looks great- 2018
Dealer said the transmission looks pretty good - 2018
GM replaced the transfer case under warranty at 96K miles
Everything is fine except the misfire in cylinder #5 which causes it to run rough - Iifter is collapsed

My suburban is at the Chevy dealer. They say I have an AFM/DOD lifter failure. They say I need a new engine. What should I do?
1. Try the fix I see on youtube where the guy hammers the lifter free then deletes the AFM system?
2. Have the lifter fixed for $1500 (independent mechanic says he will pull the head and do the work)
3. Get a LKQ reman replacement engine and have the dealer do the install? ($7500)
4. Go to a less expensive but reliable place like Fraser engines and have them replace the engine with reman? ($4800)
5. Sell the Suburban as is and be done with it?
Thanks
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Old June 10th, 2019, 7:57 PM
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You have an 11 year old car.
I would eliminate 3 & 4 right off of the bat.
Not to sure about 1.
I would probably go with 2.
Number 5 would be my second choice.

Tom
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Old June 10th, 2019, 11:03 PM
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I think I asked in your other post but didn't see a response. Is it ticking / knocking loud from the driver side of the engine which is where cylinder #5 is?

Assuming it is, then you most likely do have a stuck collapsed lifter.

I'd start with #1. It doesn't cost anything but time for you to attempt to free the stuck lifter yourself. Anyone with a metric ratchet set can take the parts off the engine to get to the lifter hole and there are several youtube videos on this process and you've found. You might be able to get is loosened up enough to keep AFM by pouring some Marvel's mystery oil in the lifter and letting it soak. Once free, you can get yourself an AFM disabler device that plugs into the OBDII port. As long as it's installed, AFM won't turn on.

Most of the time the stuck lifter is easily fixable but if you can't do the work yourself, it's a huge money maker for mechanics because they are going to remove everything to get to the head, replace the lifter then to put it all back together...Or replace the engine. They'll probably then fix your engine that you gave them for free, spend 30 minutes replacing the lifters (It's already out of the car so it's very easy to do now) then they'll sell it for $3000 to the next person to come along with a stuck lifter.
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Old June 13th, 2019, 6:03 PM
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I'd suggest 1...if that doesn't work go for 5.

Are you near central Florida? Do you like duramax engines? There is a company called Duraburb, that swaps in Duramax engines into our Tahoes and Suburbans. If they haven't changed the year of the cars they work with, they will do a 2007 and higher. Check their vids out on youtube, from what I've seen they seem to be top notch. I am no way affiliated with them, just a fan of what they do, I just don't have the money to do the swap in my 07 Tahoe with ~272K miles on it.

EDIT: I forgot go to say "OF COURSE, the stealership suggests a new motor!" lol! fricking people these days just want to take our money and run! Good luck on your decision!
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Old June 13th, 2019, 8:36 PM
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Your path might be determined by the condition of the remainder of your SUV. Here in Arizona, we have no rust, so older vehicles are not dead rust buckets. I own a 1970, 1971, 1988, 1998, 2004, and 2005 vehicles.
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Old June 14th, 2019, 8:02 AM
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From what you say the truck appears to be in good shape other than the engine. With a good body, it is worth putting some money into it and cheaper than replacing it. I would go with #2 if you can trust the independent mechanic. Get a written warranty from him for as long as possible.
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Old June 20th, 2019, 10:10 AM
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I would totally go with the #2 option. When I bought my Suburban it had a bad differential. It was just a shade under $1500 to get that totally rebuilt back to 0 miles. But, now I don't have to think about it. And, you can't buy a new(er) replacement vehicle for anywhere close to a $1500 investment.
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