2008 Tahoe Front Blower not working
April 2nd, 2016, 8:45 AM
#31
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2008 Tahoe no air front vents
Our 2008 Tahoe has just developed the same issue with no air coming from front vents. Rear vents are fine. Purchased new in 2008 Classic Chevy Mentor Oh
April 15th, 2016, 1:17 PM
#32
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Hey jallin,
We regret to hear this and apologize for any inconvenience caused. Please feel free to send us a private massage if we can assist with setting an appointment with your local certified Chevrolet dealership to have this concern performed. We are always happy to help.
Cecil J.
Chevrolet Customer Care
We regret to hear this and apologize for any inconvenience caused. Please feel free to send us a private massage if we can assist with setting an appointment with your local certified Chevrolet dealership to have this concern performed. We are always happy to help.
Cecil J.
Chevrolet Customer Care
April 27th, 2016, 11:35 AM
#33
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Same issue with 2007 Suburban LT. Front AC not blowing at all. Rear works as it should. Digital display works properly.
ATTENTION Chevrolet Customer Service Representative - please DO NOT respond with the following "
We regret to hear this and apologize for any inconvenience caused. Please feel free to send us a private massage if we can assist with setting an appointment with your local certified Chevrolet dealership to have this concern performed. We are always happy to help."
Your intentions are noted.
I need someone who is going to be able to steer me in the correct direction for a DIY fix.
ATTENTION Chevrolet Customer Service Representative - please DO NOT respond with the following "
We regret to hear this and apologize for any inconvenience caused. Please feel free to send us a private massage if we can assist with setting an appointment with your local certified Chevrolet dealership to have this concern performed. We are always happy to help."
Your intentions are noted.
I need someone who is going to be able to steer me in the correct direction for a DIY fix.
March 2nd, 2017, 9:07 PM
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Brit, the issue was a simple fix for me as it turned out. Roughly 6 months ago I replaced the resistor again and it did not resolve the issue. After further research and investigation it turned out to be the wire harness ( a common problem ). Ordered the harness from a big box chain reillyO's. Came in next day. 15 minute fix. No problems since. The harness is the one that connects to the resistor itself. Do a search for 2008 Tahoe blower motor resistor wire harness....Or something to that effect. I really hope this helps you out.
March 16th, 2017, 8:55 PM
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Live in Ohio, weather is up and down. 2004 Tahoe. Heat upfront was working GREAT. Went and got an oil change and had all fluids topped off. Heat was still working fine. Stopped to get gas, turned the Tahoe back on, nothing was blowing out. Turned from 1,2,3,4 and 5 still NOTHING. Back works awesome. You can hear a noise when I turn the dial on the settings like a humming noise I guess you could call it. You can hear the noise of it going from HEAT to A/C as well. I disconnected the battery, reset it and still nothing. ANY help???
March 18th, 2017, 1:54 PM
#38
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Live in Ohio, weather is up and down. 2004 Tahoe. Heat upfront was working GREAT. Went and got an oil change and had all fluids topped off. Heat was still working fine. Stopped to get gas, turned the Tahoe back on, nothing was blowing out. Turned from 1,2,3,4 and 5 still NOTHING. Back works awesome. You can hear a noise when I turn the dial on the settings like a humming noise I guess you could call it. You can hear the noise of it going from HEAT to A/C as well. I disconnected the battery, reset it and still nothing. ANY help???
If the fan does not work with voltage applied its the fan motor, if you replace the motor, I would suggest also replacing the resistor for good measure to make sure aged resistor dosen't take out your new motor.
March 19th, 2017, 9:51 AM
#39
You bet yer bottom they go out. Else there would not have been a recall issued. Funny. The only letter I ever get on these My Tahoe was the cluster I think. Maybe the Steering intemidiate link...
SO I wonder did they ever issue recall on rear ones..??? Seems like a hazzard considering someone COULD FREEZE TO DEATH.. Probably regional discretion I imagine...
IN MY RESEARCH... THERE ARE TWO Resistors in GMAC SUVs. One for front fan. One for REAR FAN. Front goes first of course cause you use it most... YOu DONT EVEN WANT TO KNOW THE PRICE IF YOUR SYSTEM HAS THE AUTO THERMOSTAT. I think they are around 150 and $300 for rear but dont quote me on that. Autozone grade. If your system is manual DIAL CONTROL. Then its more like 50$ and 90$....
In My Research what I found was that a Blower motor resistor will FAIL either COMPLETELY, or not at all. I will start acting goofy not coming on sometimes. My 2 year old replacement died recently. At least I thought it did. But the funny think was it has been only the #2 fan speed that has been out. While I knew thats not indicative of a bad resistor, I still took it out and went down to Orileys where I got it thinking I would cash in my lifetime replacement option, BUT NOOOO...!!!! . FIRST WHAT I FOUND IS YOU GOT TO SAVE YOUR RECEIPT THERE CAUSE THERE COMPUTER SEEMS TO CONVENIENTLY FORGET PURCHASES. And we looked under every number I ever put in their system too. Orileys WILL ALSO Play a game with you where they pretend they cant just reference your name and location. Then they search only under current YEAR PURCHASES. So you have to make sure they look under year you bought.. QUEERS... So Scan your receipts to save if you shop there... They wound up refusing to replace it. I was going to mail it to corporate so they could prove it was there's and pick a fight, however i REALIZED one of the THERMISTors ON THE Resistor, Was detached at a solder point.... They are the three things standing off the wrapped part of the unit that look a little like Resistors. I know what they are cause I replaced one that kept blowing in a dishwasher once, and again, and again. So I researched them. These are designed to BLOW PERMANENTLY when too much amperage comes thru and they OVERHEAT TO WHATEVER TEMP THEY ARE RATED AT... Be careful if you ever have to replace one. When soldering you have to have some getaway paths for heat displacement away from the new thermistor or IT WILL BLOW INSTALLING IT... BUT IN THIS CASE It was just that ONE SIDE had come loose at solder point. IT WAS HARD TO TELL CAUSE IT LOOKED FINE. I just accidentally stumbled on it cause my finger touched it when i happened to be paying attention and I felt it loose on one sife. So a quick dab of hot solder got my #2 speed back...
Note IF.. Yer BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR is totally out. AND NO FAN SPEEDS ARE WORKING.. (and you will want to listen to this when you price the REAR one on an automatic system..!!!) You can apparently cut into the plastic box on it and get to some kind of integrated circuit that looks somewhat like a digital amplifier chip. There;s a guy on you tube that shows replacing it. I have no doubt you can buy it at one of these online electronics supply places for a couple bucks. FYI those places like that also have every damn RELAY ever made and can cross reference your part number. So DONT pay 20$ or more at auto zone with you can buy 5-6 of them for that price....!
FYI MY REAR RESISTOR JUST FAILED LAST SUMMER AND I AM GOING TO ATTEMPT TO CUT IT OPEN AND REPLACE THAT I.C. I will video and post here... LInk to YOU TUBE probably..
SO I wonder did they ever issue recall on rear ones..??? Seems like a hazzard considering someone COULD FREEZE TO DEATH.. Probably regional discretion I imagine...
IN MY RESEARCH... THERE ARE TWO Resistors in GMAC SUVs. One for front fan. One for REAR FAN. Front goes first of course cause you use it most... YOu DONT EVEN WANT TO KNOW THE PRICE IF YOUR SYSTEM HAS THE AUTO THERMOSTAT. I think they are around 150 and $300 for rear but dont quote me on that. Autozone grade. If your system is manual DIAL CONTROL. Then its more like 50$ and 90$....
In My Research what I found was that a Blower motor resistor will FAIL either COMPLETELY, or not at all. I will start acting goofy not coming on sometimes. My 2 year old replacement died recently. At least I thought it did. But the funny think was it has been only the #2 fan speed that has been out. While I knew thats not indicative of a bad resistor, I still took it out and went down to Orileys where I got it thinking I would cash in my lifetime replacement option, BUT NOOOO...!!!! . FIRST WHAT I FOUND IS YOU GOT TO SAVE YOUR RECEIPT THERE CAUSE THERE COMPUTER SEEMS TO CONVENIENTLY FORGET PURCHASES. And we looked under every number I ever put in their system too. Orileys WILL ALSO Play a game with you where they pretend they cant just reference your name and location. Then they search only under current YEAR PURCHASES. So you have to make sure they look under year you bought.. QUEERS... So Scan your receipts to save if you shop there... They wound up refusing to replace it. I was going to mail it to corporate so they could prove it was there's and pick a fight, however i REALIZED one of the THERMISTors ON THE Resistor, Was detached at a solder point.... They are the three things standing off the wrapped part of the unit that look a little like Resistors. I know what they are cause I replaced one that kept blowing in a dishwasher once, and again, and again. So I researched them. These are designed to BLOW PERMANENTLY when too much amperage comes thru and they OVERHEAT TO WHATEVER TEMP THEY ARE RATED AT... Be careful if you ever have to replace one. When soldering you have to have some getaway paths for heat displacement away from the new thermistor or IT WILL BLOW INSTALLING IT... BUT IN THIS CASE It was just that ONE SIDE had come loose at solder point. IT WAS HARD TO TELL CAUSE IT LOOKED FINE. I just accidentally stumbled on it cause my finger touched it when i happened to be paying attention and I felt it loose on one sife. So a quick dab of hot solder got my #2 speed back...
Note IF.. Yer BLOWER MOTOR RESISTOR is totally out. AND NO FAN SPEEDS ARE WORKING.. (and you will want to listen to this when you price the REAR one on an automatic system..!!!) You can apparently cut into the plastic box on it and get to some kind of integrated circuit that looks somewhat like a digital amplifier chip. There;s a guy on you tube that shows replacing it. I have no doubt you can buy it at one of these online electronics supply places for a couple bucks. FYI those places like that also have every damn RELAY ever made and can cross reference your part number. So DONT pay 20$ or more at auto zone with you can buy 5-6 of them for that price....!
FYI MY REAR RESISTOR JUST FAILED LAST SUMMER AND I AM GOING TO ATTEMPT TO CUT IT OPEN AND REPLACE THAT I.C. I will video and post here... LInk to YOU TUBE probably..
Its likely the blower resistor, they do go out. You might pull the fan motor and make sure nothing has gotten into it and is preventing it from turning. You can apply 12vdc to the motor to verify it works, at 12vdc it will spin pretty darn fast, if the fan works with 12vdc, then it is very likely the resistor..
If the fan does not work with voltage applied its the fan motor, if you replace the motor, I would suggest also replacing the resistor for good measure to make sure aged resistor dosen't take out your new motor.
If the fan does not work with voltage applied its the fan motor, if you replace the motor, I would suggest also replacing the resistor for good measure to make sure aged resistor dosen't take out your new motor.
March 19th, 2017, 10:09 AM
#40
If yer fan is not working at all disregard below and you need a RESISTOR too... Most likely...
You most likely have one of the BAFFLE MOVERS gone bad. (I call them LOL)... They go out sometimes and when they do the air DIVERSION PATHWAY CONTROLS are not moving correctly. I am not certain your issue but. I changed one in wifes 2003 tahoe for similar reasons... The one I changed you had to really get in dash for. Al least it seemed like it at the time. Some of the units are fairly accessible from under the dash. Theres like 3 or five total ranging from swithing the air path from face to floor to defrost. To letting in fresh air, to switching from HOT to COLD> The a/c runs all the time FYI... Mostly... Its not too tough just take some pics while disassembling and keep screws in differnt containers labeled.
Here is what I mean...
DORMAN A/C HEATER BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
DORMAN A/C HEATER BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
(thats orileys pic cause autozones web site sux. )
You most likely have one of the BAFFLE MOVERS gone bad. (I call them LOL)... They go out sometimes and when they do the air DIVERSION PATHWAY CONTROLS are not moving correctly. I am not certain your issue but. I changed one in wifes 2003 tahoe for similar reasons... The one I changed you had to really get in dash for. Al least it seemed like it at the time. Some of the units are fairly accessible from under the dash. Theres like 3 or five total ranging from swithing the air path from face to floor to defrost. To letting in fresh air, to switching from HOT to COLD> The a/c runs all the time FYI... Mostly... Its not too tough just take some pics while disassembling and keep screws in differnt containers labeled.
Here is what I mean...
DORMAN A/C HEATER BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR
Live in Ohio, weather is up and down. 2004 Tahoe. Heat upfront was working GREAT. Went and got an oil change and had all fluids topped off. Heat was still working fine. Stopped to get gas, turned the Tahoe back on, nothing was blowing out. Turned from 1,2,3,4 and 5 still NOTHING. Back works awesome. You can hear a noise when I turn the dial on the settings like a humming noise I guess you could call it. You can hear the noise of it going from HEAT to A/C as well. I disconnected the battery, reset it and still nothing. ANY help???
(thats orileys pic cause autozones web site sux. )
Last edited by bbc3; March 19th, 2017 at 10:12 AM.