Alright, I think this is a coincidence but I'll mention it anyway... After I replaced the calipers, pads, and rotors of my 16 Suburban my battery now dies after some time. It didn't do this before.

I bled the brakes/added fluid after replacing the calipers. I did see online that, I don't know which model or year, but a Toyota has a sensor that controls an actuator that will cause it to consistently run. They mentioned something about disconnecting the battery but didn't see anywhere if that solved the issue.

I'm writing this as I sit in my burban waiting for a jump...

Thanks,

Ed

 

replacing pads, calipers and rotors...bleeding the brakes will not cause a dead battery.
have the battery tested and the charging system tested. if its ok...fully charge the battery and check for a parasitic draw. if you have a draw....over 50mamps...check for any aftermarket devices and remove them.

 

I figured but I wanted to be sure because I'm not used to working on anything so new. Since getting home I have disconnected the positive terminal and left it for 45 minutes. (Before doing this I did make sure that the battery would start the burban, which it did). The amperage was below 9 when I connected it back up. I guess the battery has gone bad. Just an odd coincidence with the caliper change.

 

9 amps is a big draw but is normal when you make the initial connection....most factory builds drop to 10milliamps in approx 10mins.
tip...disconnect the negative post first and connect it last. if you disconnect the positive b4 the negative....if the pos cable touches any grd....direct short to grd.

 

5 yrs on a battery is good now days. Only got 3 out of my '16 Equinox battery.

 

i find that the biggest killer of batteries is complete discharges. if it happens in winter, its done in one...summer you get to recharge it but its state of health is not the same; degrading more with each complete discharge.

 

Like the other guy said, have your alternator checked and the battery first, as if it did not do this prior, it has to be something simple , could be the regulator. Unsure if your regulator is in your alternator, or external, but when a car sits for a day or two and its battery dies, something is drawing power or its the regulator. In an 06 ford mustang for instance it has 3 fuse boxes, and has a lot hooked up, if you leave a couple CDs in the CD player it can draw power even with the vehicle shut off and kill your battery. In that mustangs case they were never properly grounded at the alternator from the factory, and as a result caused a spike from the alternator to push near 20 volts when running, and would trash out alternators and batteries repeatedly, as even dealerships couldn't seem to fix the problem at its source, instead, their fix was they kept replacing alternators and batteries to no avail. In some 05 to 010 vehicles 3x a year. This may not be your problem, but again I suggest cleaning your grounds ,check the alternator battery,and regulator.
(non chevy side note: I created a fix for that 06 6 cyl mustang, if anybodys got that problem in one of those where it sits for a few days and battery is always dead contact me, and I have the info to fix it yourself free .)