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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
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Brake noise

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Old August 2nd, 2013, 8:53 AM
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Default Brake noise

Burb '07, probably 110,000 miles. I noticed 2 days ago, that my driver side rear brake is making a grinding noise when I apply the brakes. From a stop, when I take off I can also hear a faint intermittent noise like the rotor may be warped:
noise.......noise....noise..noise.noise, that gets faster as my speed increases. I haven't had a chance to pull the wheel yet, the outside of the rotor feels and looks ok, but I can feel only a portion of the rear surface of the rotor and it feels pretty grooved. I'm guessing the inner pad is down to metal on at least some part of the pad? I am planning on replacing all pads and rotors, but can't get to it till next friday. What might cause the inside pad to wear alot more than the outside pad,( if my suspicions are right)?
Best guess, will it be ok to wait till next Friday? I drive mostly highway, so not a lot of stop and go.
Thanks
Old August 2nd, 2013, 5:53 PM
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Warped rotors usually manifest themselves as a pulsating pedal when stopping.

I suspect you have a stuck caliper. Be sure to clean and lube w/ special grease that may or may not come w/ the new pads the pins that the calipers slide on.
Old August 3rd, 2013, 11:45 AM
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Thanks for the reply. When you say stuck calipers, do you mean the caliper pistons or the pad(s) or the caliper, stuck on the guide pins?
Old August 3rd, 2013, 12:12 PM
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I think that Shark means that the Clapper it's self may be stuck on the Guide pins. Also, the interior side of the Rotor does take more "flack" than the outer.
Old August 3rd, 2013, 1:34 PM
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Exactly. If the piston was stuck, both pads would be worn down.
Old August 3rd, 2013, 2:55 PM
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THanks, I have a set of rotors and pads commin from Rock Auto, hopefully I won't catch on fire before I can replace 'em
Old August 3rd, 2013, 3:44 PM
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doktrred,

If you're going to have to run your ride like it is for a while, you can reach around the Tire, and give the Clapper a few light taps with a Hammer. That might just get it/them broken free enough to get you through.

PS:
If those Pins are fairly rusted, you might think about replacing them too.
(that could be a Dealer item)

Last edited by SWHouston; August 3rd, 2013 at 3:48 PM.
Old August 3rd, 2013, 4:44 PM
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I will give that a try tonight when the temp falls below 104 here in the Texas hill country! Probably pretty warm in Houston as well!
Old August 4th, 2013, 11:01 PM
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Bless the Gulf Breeze, so far we haven't hit three digits.

So far you've mentioned Pads and Rotors, and this may sound funny, but...
If you intend to re-cup the Clappers while you've got all that apart, I'd suggest that you do a moderate Bleed on your Brake System before you tore anything apart.

Just in case there's any trash/dirt in your Brake Lines, you can flush that into an area (the Clappers) which you can clean out when you put new Cups in.

With Vehicles older than yours, I'd suggest a "thorough" replacement of the entire Fluid Capacity of your Break System.
Old August 5th, 2013, 8:32 AM
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I wanna make sue I'm not thinking of something different than what you are talking about, so to make sure I have things clear...........When you talk about "stuck clappers" you are talking about the calipers being stuck on one or more of the guide pins and that can be a reason that the pads are wearing more on the inside than the outside pad, correct?

In your last post I think you are talking about rebuilding the caliper (e.g. replacing the pistons-"cups"?-and what not)? I WAS planning on bleeding the brake some when I compress the calipers,(vs. blowing old fluid back up into the master cylinder), but hadn't planned on re-doing the caliper itself. What would be a sign that I might need to rebuild the caliper? I will search for a how to on rebuilding the caliper just in case I need to.
I will try and at least pull the wheel tonight if I get time(new single dad with 3 girls so I don't have alot of spare time) and see if that gives me any new info. Thanks for all the advice.


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