peter36

Hello and HELP!
As stated my 2012 Suburban keeps flashing Service Traction Control and Service Stabiltrak, Control Other than that all appears normal It will come and go as I start and stop the vehicle, no other issues noted. Battery is new, about 6 months ago, Vehicle is in very good condition, 222000 KM, no other issues, can any one give me a starting point ?? Thank you Peter

rldavid71

Chris,
Do you have the 6.0 engine? If so, #1 is notorious for receiving less oil pressure due to some restriction. If you have determined that's where its at, like mine, I replaced the oil pump with a Melling high volume high pressure pump. if you have 4x4 its difficult. A shop will go by the book for cost to drop the front end, to lower the oil pan. I found some YouTube postings with another way and did it myself.
Hope you figure it out.
Robert

Guvner2

I posted this on another just started Stabilitrak post when I noticed this much longer thread. Didn't see any mention of what I learned here so figured I'd repost it. Apparently missing on certain cylinders will trigger a shut down of Stabilitrak, traction control and may generate the 0300 code along with the check engine light. Missing can be from a variety of things but it's now 2018 and one of the known problems has been the lifters involved in kicking down to 4 cylinders from 8. Obviously you don't think of misses being involved with brake systems or stabilitrak but the computer doesn't want a missing engine to cause other systems to fail. Anyway.. Here's everything I know at this point. (The misses are really hard to tell most of the time.) Scanner doesn't miss them though.

I just learned about this on a used Suburban I bought. A good thing for me is that I just decided a few months ago to buy a Snap ON Solus Edge scanner off of Ebay. What happens on the 5.3 engine is it has a system to kick down to 4 cylinders. This involved taking oil pressure away from certain lifters. 1, 4, 6 and 7. You need to get a good scanner and check the history of the misfires, easily done with the Solus Edge scanner. Mine had over 38,000 misfires on cylinder 4. Once reading that I changed the coil pack, spark plug wire and spark plug just to see the difference. Nothing changed. On this particular scanner you can turn to live feed and watch your engine while it runs for misfires. Mine kept it up running my misfire total up some more. What happens to the computer when it detects all these random misses is it shuts down the Stabilitrak and Traction Control giving you that nice error including the check engine light on your instrument cluster. No misses, no errors. You have misses you should eventually get the 0300 error code. There's a service bulletin out on this. 80-06-01-018B. They don't talk about the misses but I have a really tech savvy mechanic friend who knows all this by heart. Good luck..

trainwreck91

Well I got my suburban all figured out. After getting the service stablitrak and stuff. And multiple attempts at fixing it. I was getting a code for the tcc solenoid. So I replaced that. Have so drop the tranny pan to change it. As it is in the valve body. Worked for a day. Then came back. So I ended up replacing the entire internal transmission harness. Btw you have to splice the harness if you’re only doing the tcc solenoid. Thinking I made a bad connection I changed the entire harness. Worked for a day. Long story short. It turned out it was my tcm. The transmission control module was done. Got it off Maizin for around $80. Had a buddy of mine at Chevy reprogram it to the vehicles and voila. Has been good ever since. It’s been almost a year no issues. The tcm must be programmed using Chevy software. It is NOT plug and play. But very easy to change.

Familyman5

I have a 2008 suburban, started having some issues similar to you guys. Started out with an check engine light says "lost communication to primary fuel pump" but truck runs normal. Then abs, traction control and brake light came on. Service stability and brake system keep flashing. The brake light tends to go off and on and same with check engine light. Now the transmission seems to stop working with driving. We stop and turn the truck off and turn it back on and the transmission starts working again. I have ordered a "data link resistor" should be in tomorrow and going to start there. I will post results but wanted to see if anyone is having these issues as well?

Oh and now I have another code popping up - U2142 - lost communication with Yaw rate sensor.

Thanks,

bryan

winger_bros

good morning - 2007 Silverado LTZ crew 4x4 with 304,000 miles - owned since 168,000 miles - had almost five years. I have followed the forum on this issue for quite some time expecting problems. Surprisingly the first "major" item occurred yesterday. My daughter uses the truck for college. Some background - use Mobil 1 only, no AFM deactivate although I thought about it, done normal maintenance and found the truck to be very decent to work on. This truck does leak oil bad out the main rear and burns some; I do plan to fix the rear main next summer. We had used the truck to go to supper Monday night and worked normally. My daughter gets into the truck Tuesday morning and starts leaving the yard and all heck breaks loose - engine light flashes, stabilitrak icon flashes, truck stumbles and jerks. She made it to school OK - about 13 miles and calls to let me know. I go over and look at it at noon - yep it is a mess. I decide to leave work early and limp the thing home - I drove it and she drove the Ram. Got it home and the way it drove you would think it was toast. Ran diagnostic on the truck - here were the codes - PO175, PO301, PO301, PO172, PO175, PO300, CO561. I cleared and reread the codes - nothing there after clearing. I decide to pull #1 plug based upon the PO301 codes. The plug was bad - gunked up. I pulled all the plugs and the others were OK. I had replaced plugs at 245,000 - so they had about 60K on them. Go to O'Reily and bought the same AC plug and installed all 8. Fired it up and ran as normal. Went a couple miles and no problems. She drove it this morning and no issue. The fact that GM designs/codes the "action" of that condition, and has the truck act the way it did is a terrible design. The bad plug caused the misfire no question, but to go into a mode that causes the whole vehicle to be almost undriveable is incompetent. They should have triggered a low power situation, detune, etc. instead of making someone think the truck is on it's last leg. I have followed this forum over the years and this topic and wanted to share. The other big culprits are the throttle position senor and brake switch, although not exclusively. Also, the wonderful AFM is a problem too. Hope this info helps out someone else. I will follow up if anything else occurs. I may end up replacing the coil pak for #1 as well since the other plugs looked OK. It could be not firing as hot as need be - although I have had not previous engine lights or warnings.

Guvner2

One other thing I was told by several mechanic friends. First I bought a GM Goodwrench remanufactured motor from GM to replace my engine which had lifter and cam damage causing all my the lifters not pumping back up following a call by the energy management system to go back to 8 cylinders from 4. Secondly I got lucky I'm told as anytime the check engine light is flashing you're dumping fuel on the catalytic converter and may take it out. That's a bit pricey but not as much as it used to be. Good luck...

G..

dancertexas

Hi, everyone! Sorry I'm super late to the party LOL but I've been reading this thread for about two months now, because my 2008 Tahoe would randomly give me the dreaded Stabilitrak warning and suddenly I could barely go over 30mph. So I don't know if this will help anyone but I'd like to tell y'all what went on as far as my truck is concerned in hopes that it might help someone else. So first thing that happened, the truck would randomly just not start, literally about 3 days after I drover her off the lot, and I would have to jiggle the battery cables and voila she came back to life, the problem was, she would just up and die in the middle of traffic, in the middle of me driving 40 mph, and me being a female driving alone with a one year old in tow, you can imagine how scary and frustrating that was. So I took it back to the place I bought it and they replaced the negative battery cable and sent me one my way. Next thing I know, a few weeks later, I'm on the highway and the locks are locking and unlocking repeatedly, the radio is cutting in and out, she's jolting in place, ALL my warnings are chiming and my truck literally appears to be possessed, but thankfully I was almost home, so I made it into my driveway, let her sit for a minute, then drove her around the neighborhood and down the access road, and she never did that again, but that was the first time it gave me the stabilitrak warning, and then all hell broke loose. So the next day I took it back to the dealer again and they kept her for a week and she never acted up so I picked her up and thought maybe it was just a fluke. Cue another couple of weeks and the Stabilitrak warning is back, but instead of the truck going haywire, she does the reduced engine power thing. I have never even HEARD of this in my life, and this is my 4th vehicle, so I call up the boyfriend who is a mechanic, and he also has never heard of this, but then again he's partial to older trucks and generally works on older vehicles, so long story short he scans it, nothing, so he has a pow wow with some mechanic friends, and they suggest it might be the spark plugs.... well I need to change them anyway but even I know it's not something that simple. So I get online with GM and I'm chatting with them and they tell me this is being caused by a faulty throttle body and if my truck has under 120,000 miles, it'll be fixed for free. Lo and behold, I have 130,000. DAMMIT. So I get back online with them, and they tell me to just replace the throttle sensor, they warn me that any parts place will tell me that I need the entire throttle body, but not to listen to them, they are trying to sell, I ONLY need the TPS, it's the gold part of the sensor that is going out, so I say okay. Also, I had read someone's post on here about his wife and her Suburban I think, and how he has a trusty Ford, and how he inspected the wiring and I took a screen shot and sent it to my boyfriend who said yes,that makes a lot of sense, I will try that. So now the boyfriend has throttle cleaner, the throttle sensor, the screen shot, and the spark plugs, and replaces all of that, and while he's down there he goes ahead and changes the oil too, and he checks all the grounds, and two days later she does the Stabilitrak thing AGAIN and at this point I just want to cry. So the boyfriend scans it again and he pulls up a cam sensor. I'm so done with all of this at this point that I say forget it, I'll let it get repoed and I just want to grab a bottle of wine and cry myself to sleep, but since my boyfriend is the best, he goes and buys the cam sensor while I'm having my pity party and replaces it, which he also tells me the old cam sensor broke off inside my truck and it took a lot of effort for him to get it out, and ever since he replaced it she has run PERFECT. So idk if it was just the cam sensor all along or if it was a combination of all those things but these are all the things I did before she went back to running like a normal vehicle. I hope this might help someone in the future.

73shark

Welcome to the forum and thanks for the detailed analysis of your problem and your solution.

winger_bros

Update on the 2007 305,000 mile LTZ - working just fine since the incident in November 2018 I added to this string. A relief, but a clear indication of why people reach a huge frustration level with these vehicles and why GM hopefully has see some of these forums and been at least curious about this type of problem. I have some patience as this truck and our 2007 Suburban have been very good to us. The suburban is approaching 200K and we have had it about the same amount of time (purchasing is with 85K on it).