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2013 Chevrolet Suburban
Platform: GMT 400, 800, 900

Parsitic Battery Drain 2011 Suburban

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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 4:49 PM
  #1  
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Default Parsitic Battery Drain 2011 Suburban

I am in Cabo San Lucas Mexico and the dealer told me he could not find the problem. However he told me if I remove the fuse for the BCM the drain stops. Wouldn't that mean the BCM is bad? I need help. My only choice is to drive the truck back to Arizona where I bought it so they can help. Right now I am disconnecting the negative cable at night so it will not drain.
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Old Aug 20, 2014 | 11:10 PM
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Welcome to the forum
If you are still within your 3yr 36k mile warranty you should be able to take it to any US dealership for warranty repairs...
It may not be the BCM, it could be something the BCM drives/monitors

Here are some of the BCM items to consider checking...

The various body control module (BCM) input and output circuits are described in the corresponding functional areas indicated on the BCM electrical schematics. Some BCM functions with the subsystems may be as a gateway only or as an enable for the system. The BCM related systems/subsystems include, but are not limited to the following:

• Antilock Brake System (ABS)--Refer to ABS Description and Operation .

• Automatic Day-Night Mirror--Refer to Automatic Day-Night Mirror Description and Operation .

• Cruise Control System--Refer to Cruise Control Description and Operation .

• Electrical Power Management (EPM)--Refer to Electrical Power Management Description and Operation .

• Exterior Lighting--Refer to Exterior Lighting Systems Description and Operation .

• Horn System--Refer to Horns System Description and Operation .

• HVAC--Refer to Air Delivery Description and Operation and Air Temperature Description and Operation .

• Instrument Cluster Indicator Control--Refer to Instrument Cluster Description and Operation .

• Interior Lighting--Refer to Interior Lighting Systems Description and Operation .

• Power Door Lock System--Refer to Power Door Locks Description and Operation .

• Rear Window Defogger System--Refer to Rear Window Defogger Description and Operation .

• Redundant Steering Wheel Controls--Refer to Steering Wheel Controls Description and Operation .

• Remote Function Actuation (RFA) Control--Refer to Keyless Entry System Description and Operation .

• Retained Accessory Power (RAP)--Refer to Retained Accessory Power (RAP) Description and Operation .

• Shift Lock Control System--Refer to Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control Description and Operation .

• Starting System--Refer to Starting System Description and Operation .

• Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System--Refer to SIR System Description and Operation .

• Suspension System--Refer to Electronic Suspension Control Description and Operation .

• Theft Deterrent--Refer to Content Theft Deterrent (CTD) Description and Operation .

• Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) System--Refer to Tire Pressure Monitor Description and Operation .

• Wiper/Washer System Functions--Refer to Wiper/Washer System Description and Operation .
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 7:34 AM
  #3  
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I can't help with your question, but since your in Cabo....look up Gordo Lele's for lunch.

Sorry for the OT in the thread...we go to Cabo every year.
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Old Aug 21, 2014 | 7:40 AM
  #4  
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Default Bcm

Body Control Module. Lots of parts of the Tahoe stay 'hot' (on) even after you remove they key. Apparently conservation of battery never crossed their minds... as not everyone drives their tahoe every day.

I put an Optima Yellow Top in my 09 tahoe when it was 3 months old and have never, in 5 years, had any issues running the radio for hours, power everything, and then start it right up after sitting outside.

I know it's not the ideal fix, but I'm sold on these batteries. The OEM one couldn't even power the radio for an hour then start the engine. (and yes, I went through 3 OEM batteries under warranty before I told them what they could do with their batteries).
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Old Apr 21, 2016 | 11:32 PM
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Default 2000 Chevy Tahoe limited.

First my driver lock went out. Now all locks went out. Could not get alarm to turn off to start vehicle. AAA came out disconnected the battery reconnected. Jump started it. It was fine. Locks would not work any more. Drive it home it was fine. In a few days battery was sounding lightly as if losing power eventually sounding like battery was dying. I bought a new battery. Was working fine. Locks still not working. 5 days later, same issue. Alarm sounding lightly battery dying. Battery dead now. Is this all the same issue related to locks? Relay? Alarm? This was a brand new battery. AC Delco Professional. ??????
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 8:22 AM
  #6  
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Welcome to the forum....
my 2¢ on the battery.. I went through at least 3 maybe 4 AC Delco Pro batteries, they lasted me about 2-3 years each, I now have a Optima ( Red Top) in my 2007 Tahoe.
That all said , the problem is not your battery and probably not the locks, (though you should check the connections to the lock and window controls at the drivers door for crud and or corrosion ) I suspect the BCM is the problem.
You might also want to check the under hood fuses and relays box, if you decide to try and pull it out make sure you disconnect the battery first, do a search in the forum, seems like I recall a similar issue being resolved by reseating the fuse/relay box.
Check the battery cables for corrosion and poor connections, check the power connections at the starter
Check the connections at the generator/alternator, might even consider having it tested off vehicle to make sure its not shorted internally and causing the slow drain.
I suspect the locks are a symptom not the cause, as the likelihood of all four failing at the same time is not very high.

Keep us updated
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 10:56 AM
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x2 on what in2pro said. I went through 3-4 AC Delco batteries as well until I got sick of having them take a dump on me. I got the Optima Yellow top and has been strong for 5 years now.
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Old Apr 22, 2016 | 11:11 AM
  #8  
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Dual battery!
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Old Apr 24, 2016 | 3:04 PM
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Default 200 Chevy Tahoe

Update. So my mechanic thought it was the alarm system (after market installed at Showcase Chevrolet) goofing up. We turned it off via the valet switch. Left it off. Locks were still not working. Again, after he left I pulled out the power window and locks fuses. Swapped them and when I put the power lock fuse back in, voila! My locks work again. I thought maybe the fuse was burnt. But can't tell with these. So I switch them again both windows and locks work.

When I turned the alarm back on. The keyless entry would no longer turn it off. (This was one of the original issues before all this happened). I hit the valet switch and it turned off. I turned he alarm back off.

At this point as my mechanic thought I feel like it's more than likely the alarm system that has given out.
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