Service Traction Control - Stabilitrak and ABS light, Help
#122
Throw parts at it
I fought this problem for months, door locks, stabilitrack, traction control, gauges going dead or acting erratic, brakes dragging and applying themsevles, and transmission shifting HARD. My 07 Tahoe stayed at the dealership for 3 1/2 months before they figured it out. Here is a list of items they replaced that did NOT help.
Body control module
powertrain control module
Transmission control module
they checked all the connnectors between the Hi and Low speed LAN circuits.
They went as far as telling me that my DVD player which came in the truck was causing the problem... I called bull**** on it. Told them I wanted a factory rep involved and hired a lawyer. The rep got some high paid techs involved and they ended up replacing a terminating resistor in the wiring harness (by the spare tire) and the negative battery cable. It has not done it now for about 6 months.
Body control module
powertrain control module
Transmission control module
they checked all the connnectors between the Hi and Low speed LAN circuits.
They went as far as telling me that my DVD player which came in the truck was causing the problem... I called bull**** on it. Told them I wanted a factory rep involved and hired a lawyer. The rep got some high paid techs involved and they ended up replacing a terminating resistor in the wiring harness (by the spare tire) and the negative battery cable. It has not done it now for about 6 months.
MAN! THey def. threw a lot of parts at that problem.
#123
My 2007 subirban is also showing the same symptoms, stalibitrac service shows up brakes are weird and tranny shifts hard and i read your comment and i jave been lookong for the terminating resistor and i havent had luck, could you provide a picture please or a location of where it is at?
#124
Hey guys,
Not sure if this is going to apply to many/any of you, but, I recently changed my rear shock and had the same lights all come on. I searched exhaustedly online and found a whole bunch of useless solutions about reseting the codes by disconnecting the battery to replacing VSS (I didn't even bother with the last one). It seems nobody wants to post the error they made while working back there (or at least the one I did), above the shock tower on the back side where it is impossible to see, there is a connection that controls all of this and is very easy to unplug not so easy to plug.
Perhaps this is the issue you are having being intermittent and being effected by water and WD40, maybe it wouldn't hurt to clean these contacts, put some di-electric grease on them and re connect. could be a lot less trouble then having the dealership look at it endlessly.
Sorry to all if this is not the appropriate spot for this post, my internet is painfully slow (I live out in the sticks) but if someone else can fix it or place it where it needs to be I and probably others with this problem would appreciate it.
Good luck and thanks for the space and knowledge base!
Not sure if this is going to apply to many/any of you, but, I recently changed my rear shock and had the same lights all come on. I searched exhaustedly online and found a whole bunch of useless solutions about reseting the codes by disconnecting the battery to replacing VSS (I didn't even bother with the last one). It seems nobody wants to post the error they made while working back there (or at least the one I did), above the shock tower on the back side where it is impossible to see, there is a connection that controls all of this and is very easy to unplug not so easy to plug.
Perhaps this is the issue you are having being intermittent and being effected by water and WD40, maybe it wouldn't hurt to clean these contacts, put some di-electric grease on them and re connect. could be a lot less trouble then having the dealership look at it endlessly.
Sorry to all if this is not the appropriate spot for this post, my internet is painfully slow (I live out in the sticks) but if someone else can fix it or place it where it needs to be I and probably others with this problem would appreciate it.
Good luck and thanks for the space and knowledge base!
#125
Doing you own repairs then a quality high end scan tool is needed. My scan tool picked up a bad R rear shock. Shop manual gave me the specs. to check the ohms of the shock and it was bad. Replaced that shock 50k miles ago and never a problem again. Every time I disconnect a connector it gets sprayed with an electronic connection cleaner/lubricant. before going back together.
#126
You fixed my problem.
Hey guys,
Not sure if this is going to apply to many/any of you, but, I recently changed my rear shock and had the same lights all come on. I searched exhaustedly online and found a whole bunch of useless solutions about reseting the codes by disconnecting the battery to replacing VSS (I didn't even bother with the last one). It seems nobody wants to post the error they made while working back there (or at least the one I did), above the shock tower on the back side where it is impossible to see, there is a connection that controls all of this and is very easy to unplug not so easy to plug.
Perhaps this is the issue you are having being intermittent and being effected by water and WD40, maybe it wouldn't hurt to clean these contacts, put some di-electric grease on them and re connect. could be a lot less trouble then having the dealership look at it endlessly.
Sorry to all if this is not the appropriate spot for this post, my internet is painfully slow (I live out in the sticks) but if someone else can fix it or place it where it needs to be I and probably others with this problem would appreciate it.
Good luck and thanks for the space and knowledge base!
Not sure if this is going to apply to many/any of you, but, I recently changed my rear shock and had the same lights all come on. I searched exhaustedly online and found a whole bunch of useless solutions about reseting the codes by disconnecting the battery to replacing VSS (I didn't even bother with the last one). It seems nobody wants to post the error they made while working back there (or at least the one I did), above the shock tower on the back side where it is impossible to see, there is a connection that controls all of this and is very easy to unplug not so easy to plug.
Perhaps this is the issue you are having being intermittent and being effected by water and WD40, maybe it wouldn't hurt to clean these contacts, put some di-electric grease on them and re connect. could be a lot less trouble then having the dealership look at it endlessly.
Sorry to all if this is not the appropriate spot for this post, my internet is painfully slow (I live out in the sticks) but if someone else can fix it or place it where it needs to be I and probably others with this problem would appreciate it.
Good luck and thanks for the space and knowledge base!
#127
Chev - Service Traction Control
Hopes this helps, got a lot of good help online, so trying to return the favor...
First, this issue is very complex - it could be a number of things. Basically, Chevy designed this error to come up to trigger if any number of things go wrong in your car. Such a bad design... Basically, it is designed to slow your car down if ANY major error occurs (traction loss, power loss, cyclinder issues, electric loss...) which could be triggered by bad plugs, bad plug wires, bad iginition, bad ground connection, electrical issue, traction control issues, ABS issues... the list goes on...
Research this issue online and you'll find tons of posts, tons of issues, tons of advice... Rather than Chevy telling you (or providing an error code for the specific issue - you'll only get the ONE GENERAL error code or issue - Service Traction Control... and sometimes a cyclinder issues. (mine cyclinder #6, #4, then #7...)
Take it to a garage, and they will charge you thousands+ to try to fix this because it is too hard to find, and because they can justify telling you probably need new engine or rebuild, or bad cyclinder/piston... Usually, this is TOTALLY wrong.
OK, here was my fix:
Driving down the road - Service Traction Control light came on, (when this error happens - Chevy design the system to cut back the engine/carb) so my car immediately started driving bad.. bad control, engine cutting back....
Mechanic said it needs new plugs (plug fouled) and plug wires.... $400 - ran ok 3 days - then light came back on
Mechanic said it needed new ignition coil - replaced $750 ran ok 2 days - then light came back on
Mechanic said probably something much serious - will need to go into motor to check piston/cyclinders/fouling.... I said no...
After reading on internet - I tried several of the quick fixes recommended - added new ground wire - no change, replace plugs/wires/ignition coils - incase one was bad - still no change.. new air filter/sensor... nothing, checked batery connections, - took wheels off - checked ABS sensors and connections - looked fine...
THEN - talked to another mechanic he asked what plugs and ignition coil I used - I bought from Advance Auto and bought their premium ones. He said NO they don't work with Tahoes. He cleared all codes, reran truck - read error codes - still pulling error on cyclinder #6 - Service Traction Control light still on...
He replaced ignition coil #6 with a NAPA ignition coil - light went out, no error codes. ($45)
It's been 3 months now and still running fine. I waited awhile because I couldn't believe that was the issue...
Wonder how many other people had this issue, and mechanics charged them thousands to fix....or replaced motor...
Hope this helps.
Thanks Chevy !!!
First, this issue is very complex - it could be a number of things. Basically, Chevy designed this error to come up to trigger if any number of things go wrong in your car. Such a bad design... Basically, it is designed to slow your car down if ANY major error occurs (traction loss, power loss, cyclinder issues, electric loss...) which could be triggered by bad plugs, bad plug wires, bad iginition, bad ground connection, electrical issue, traction control issues, ABS issues... the list goes on...
Research this issue online and you'll find tons of posts, tons of issues, tons of advice... Rather than Chevy telling you (or providing an error code for the specific issue - you'll only get the ONE GENERAL error code or issue - Service Traction Control... and sometimes a cyclinder issues. (mine cyclinder #6, #4, then #7...)
Take it to a garage, and they will charge you thousands+ to try to fix this because it is too hard to find, and because they can justify telling you probably need new engine or rebuild, or bad cyclinder/piston... Usually, this is TOTALLY wrong.
OK, here was my fix:
Driving down the road - Service Traction Control light came on, (when this error happens - Chevy design the system to cut back the engine/carb) so my car immediately started driving bad.. bad control, engine cutting back....
Mechanic said it needs new plugs (plug fouled) and plug wires.... $400 - ran ok 3 days - then light came back on
Mechanic said it needed new ignition coil - replaced $750 ran ok 2 days - then light came back on
Mechanic said probably something much serious - will need to go into motor to check piston/cyclinders/fouling.... I said no...
After reading on internet - I tried several of the quick fixes recommended - added new ground wire - no change, replace plugs/wires/ignition coils - incase one was bad - still no change.. new air filter/sensor... nothing, checked batery connections, - took wheels off - checked ABS sensors and connections - looked fine...
THEN - talked to another mechanic he asked what plugs and ignition coil I used - I bought from Advance Auto and bought their premium ones. He said NO they don't work with Tahoes. He cleared all codes, reran truck - read error codes - still pulling error on cyclinder #6 - Service Traction Control light still on...
He replaced ignition coil #6 with a NAPA ignition coil - light went out, no error codes. ($45)
It's been 3 months now and still running fine. I waited awhile because I couldn't believe that was the issue...
Wonder how many other people had this issue, and mechanics charged them thousands to fix....or replaced motor...
Hope this helps.
Thanks Chevy !!!
The following users liked this post:
73shark (August 7th, 2022)
#129
What?
I know I'm late with my reply but for anyone still having this issues, I ran my 07 for codes and it showed that the wheel speed/abs sensor needed to be replaced. It's only been 2 days but the issue has not occurred again. So far so good. Btw, I got the part from autozone for 50 bucks...if anything changes, ill repost...hope this helps...
#130
New User
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Awaiting E-mail Confirmation
2007 Suburban 5.3 LTZ
Started up the burban tonight and I have Service Traction Control - Service Stabilitrak and ABS light is on, I'm sure they are all related any ideas?
I searched and found something about a dealer computer upgrade? Does this fall under my 2007 powertrain warranty?
Thanks-
Started up the burban tonight and I have Service Traction Control - Service Stabilitrak and ABS light is on, I'm sure they are all related any ideas?
I searched and found something about a dealer computer upgrade? Does this fall under my 2007 powertrain warranty?
Thanks-
The following users liked this post:
fparkin (January 30th, 2024)
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