Speaker not working
How should I approach this speaker issue? I have searched but not found help.
I was hearing no bass until I turned the fade to center. Playing with fade and balance in four different directions the fronts seem fine, a little sound from the LR and NOTHING from the RR. How do I fix it?
2002 suburban stock radio, CD, extra tape deck, phone jacks in the rear.
I was hearing no bass until I turned the fade to center. Playing with fade and balance in four different directions the fronts seem fine, a little sound from the LR and NOTHING from the RR. How do I fix it?
2002 suburban stock radio, CD, extra tape deck, phone jacks in the rear.
More information for you. No replies, 160 views in 6 days so maybe the following should help...
I now find there are six speaker locations....Only the RR door does not work.
It has the rear seat audio and pressing that power button toggles the LR door speaker on and off and I hear a relay click at the control every time. So that is working if the relay contacts to the RR door are fine.
Where do you think I should start? Pulling door panel or opening up Rear Seat Audio control? My gut feeling is to replace both rear door speakers because there is a lot of distortion from the rear.
Of course any directions will help to open something up. Can you test audio with a meter?
Thanks.
I now find there are six speaker locations....Only the RR door does not work.
It has the rear seat audio and pressing that power button toggles the LR door speaker on and off and I hear a relay click at the control every time. So that is working if the relay contacts to the RR door are fine.
Where do you think I should start? Pulling door panel or opening up Rear Seat Audio control? My gut feeling is to replace both rear door speakers because there is a lot of distortion from the rear.
Of course any directions will help to open something up. Can you test audio with a meter?
Thanks.
I would have to go with oldchevy on this, pull the speak use a meter to ohm it out and compare it to the other side that is working....you can also swap the speakers to check out the wiring... if the speaker is bad, I would consider checking out Crutchfield, they can give you a good replacement that will fit, I would also replace them as pairs...
I finally swapped LR speaker to RR and it works. Ordered Kickers from Crutchfield.
Pop out door lock, pop out door handle surround. Remove screw at bottom and screw at door handle, lift up panel to remove it.
Pop out door lock, pop out door handle surround. Remove screw at bottom and screw at door handle, lift up panel to remove it.
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Kickers are in and I am happy. I learned two things...checking ohms with a meter... Bad OEM 7.5, still working OEM 7.2 New Kicker 3.8 ...Well I learned nothing here. Evidently the RR was shorting out everything..I even found a Sub.
Removing door panel...Has TWO screws, not one. I removed the bottom and jerked upwards on the panel until the screw under the arm rest broke away. I'm waiting for JB Weld to cure before I replace the door panels. BTW they don't have push pins...there are about eight fasteners that release by lifting the panel.
1. Pry out handle surround and the lock. 2. Screw hole under armrest. 3 Did not see second 7mm screw, jerked up hard and left a mess. 4. Before pop tops there were can openers. Works great to release window connector tab, especially on driver's side. 5. Tested windows when done and speaker connectors pulled loose, cut white insulation. Taped and cable tied to a nearby sheet metal hole.
Hints... remove two 7mm screws (not one as I did) . Cable tie adapter harness away from the window.
Removing door panel...Has TWO screws, not one. I removed the bottom and jerked upwards on the panel until the screw under the arm rest broke away. I'm waiting for JB Weld to cure before I replace the door panels. BTW they don't have push pins...there are about eight fasteners that release by lifting the panel.
1. Pry out handle surround and the lock. 2. Screw hole under armrest. 3 Did not see second 7mm screw, jerked up hard and left a mess. 4. Before pop tops there were can openers. Works great to release window connector tab, especially on driver's side. 5. Tested windows when done and speaker connectors pulled loose, cut white insulation. Taped and cable tied to a nearby sheet metal hole.
Hints... remove two 7mm screws (not one as I did) . Cable tie adapter harness away from the window.
Last edited by b4hntn; Mar 2, 2014 at 4:24 PM.
I finally got some pictures of rear door speaker replacement on the previous reply.
Now, how do you access the sub woofer near the lift gate and what speaker do you suggest?
Now, how do you access the sub woofer near the lift gate and what speaker do you suggest?
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