Stalling while towing - Help

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May 31st, 2014, 6:59 AM

#11

trainwreck91

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Could be shutting down to protect the transmission. Do you have a transmission inter cooler kit , might want to add one. In2pro did a nice detailed write up on the install. Also maybe a transmission fluid and filter change might help. I wouldn't just trade it for a 13. Your mileage is, fairly low. No sense in spending a couple thousand on the same model when a few hundred might resolve the issue

Last edited by trainwreck91; May 31st, 2014 at 7:01 AM.

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May 31st, 2014, 8:50 AM

#12

BadPunkin

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I found the write up and looks like something I will be doing. Either that one or this one:

RV.Net Open Roads Forum: Lowered Transmission Temps 28 Degrees (lots of pics)

Trans is running fine and temp was not a problem according to the dealer, but a little more peace of mind won't hurt. Apparently the trans temp shut down cut off is closer to 240, I was never above 209.

We have decided not to upgrade, price was good but the Ohio sales tax was a deal breaker. We end up paying 8% sales tax on $12-15K twice. Its a stupid system.

So we need to get to the bottom of the stalling issue. From the article I attached above, both incidents of stalling/shutting down are related to towing long distances and possibly while in tow/haul mode. We are towing 8 hours through the PA mountains in August with 8-9K#s in tow. From what I have read these are the perfect conditions for another shut down incident.

Has anyone else with a 2500 had this issues?

Thanks guys,

BP

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May 31st, 2014, 2:54 PM

#13

intheburbs

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BadPunkin

Has anyone else with a 2500 had this issues?

I did my first pull with my 2500 over the New Year holiday. Dragged the TT down to Gulf Shores, AL from Michigan. Went up and over the Appalachians through TN and KY with no issues. And it did get down below a quarter tank during the drive. I believe my biggest fill-up was 35 gallons. Did the drive each way in two days, so we were covering ~500 miles a day. No issues.

This thread is the first I've ever heard of this issue. We're going to the Grand Canyon (and UT and CO, too) this summer, so I estimate we'll be logging a little over 5000 miles in 2 1/2 weeks. We will be going through the Eisenhower tunnel, so she'll get some good high-altitude exercise. I'll just make sure we fill up in Silverthorne before we make the final ascent over the Divide.

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June 1st, 2014, 7:41 PM

#14

Chevrolet Customer Service

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Quote:

Originally Posted by BadPunkin

Hoping to get a little insight into an ongoing stalling problem.

Specs -

2007 Burb 2500 LT loaded, 71,500 miles, Vin - 7G175017

History -

5 weeks ago while towing a trailer weighing approximately 9K for more than 180 miles, the truck stalled at 60 MPH on the interstate in tow mode. Fuel gauge read less than 1/4, DTE was 28. The truck would not restart until I put a gallon of gas in it and then proceeded to fill at the station to full. I assume this was a "margin of error" situation and simply ran out of gas

No issues for the next 5 weeks and 2K miles, but I did not let it go below 1/3 tank to be safe and did not do any towing over 30 miles and only light weight when I did.

2 days ago I was pulling an empty, under 3K# trailer over the continental divide in Colorado and the truck stalled twice. I was able to restart and continue until it finally stalled a third time. It started, but would not drive (ie pedal to the floor no change in rpms). I was in tow mode, trans temp was running hotter 209 F and fuel was above 1/4 and I was on a significant uphill grade. I had to roll backwards along a significant drop off into a blind corner to get to a parking lot. I let the truck idle, hood open until Trans temp was 165 F. Drove the rest of the way home without stalling. However, tarns temp continued to read very high, 180-190 downhill and in town, even after sitting for 10 minutes with the hood open.

I have towed and driven this truck in all sorts of conditions and never had a trans temp above 178 F. If it was simply the 12,000 ft of elevation and the temp is fine and unrelated to the stalling I can live with that, I only mentioned it because it was unusual for this truck. But why is it stalling, and in terrible places none the less?

I took it to the dealer and there are no codes, no lights have ever come on, and they can not explain what happened.

I have to drive 1300+ miles Sunday with the 3K# trailer and the whole family (2 kids, wife and 2 dogs) and don't want to be stuck in BFE.

Questions -

1. Assuming the first time I simply ran out of fuel, what caused the 2nd incident? Trans Temp? Fuel pump dry due to incline? Limp mode?

2. Could trans temp be causing the stalling, both times?

3. Could a bad fuel pump/sensor be the culprit?

Thanks in advance for any help, I am at a loss on how to proceed and this last trip put us over the mileage for the warranty so ***** nilly replacing things is out of the question (I am already into this truck for $4K this month)

BP

Hi BP,

I am sorry to hear that you have experienced this unexpected stalling with your Suburban. I would be happy to reach out to your dealership on your behalf. If this is something you would like me to do, please PM me your full contact information, and name/location of your involved dealership.

Sincerely,

Jonathan A. (Assisting)
Chevrolet Customer Care

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June 1st, 2014, 8:30 PM

#15

BadPunkin

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Quote:

Originally Posted by Chevrolet Customer Service

Jonathan,

I appreciate the follow up. I have been to the dealership and they were extremely helpful, King GM in Longmont Colorado. I have also spent 2 hours live chatting with chevy support (worthless, I have a copy of the transcript if you want some light reading). Additionally, I talked with another dealer, McCaddon in Boulder Colorado and they too were extremely help. That said, no dealership is going to drive my truck for 5+ hours with a heavy trailer and hundreds of miles to get all of the conditions recreated and hope it all happens at 1/4 tank of gas. I know because I've asked both of the dealerships I listed above. Further, at $80/hr for a techs time I'm not paying $400 in hopes it can be recreated.

I am more than willing to accept any help that actually works to diagnose and fix the problem. If that help involves calling a dealership and telling them everything I have posted, asking a tech to look at it, check for codes and take it for a 20 minute test drive, I'll save us both the time and decline. I have already done that with 2 dealerships and spent 8+ hours in the truck driving it to and from the nearest dealership while on vacation and spent more than 4 hours on the phone talking to them about it.

Here is what you can help me with. The 2007 Suburban 2500 and some 2008 have fuel pump #19167498 in the 2nd tank. Some 2008 and all 2009-2014 have fuel pump #19178489 in the second tank. As far as I can tell no 2009-2014 have this problem, which leads one to consider does GM know about this or was it a fluke that the fuel pump was changed. Accepting that it was a fluke, not a cover up, what does it take to get fuel pump #19178489 in my truck? According to everyone I've talked to the pumps are not interchangeable. Is this because of the opening on the tank? In which case can I get a 2009+ second tank and pump installed? Or is it a computer issue in which case I am out of luck.

I am happy to provide my contact info via private message to discuss this further.

I will await your response,

Lincoln

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June 1st, 2014, 8:35 PM

#16

BadPunkin

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In addition to my previous post here are more reported cases of the same issue, none have a definitive resolution:

 http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/23822076/print/true.cfm

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php

http://www.justanswer.com/chevy/6zk38-chevrolet-suburban-2500-lt-2008-chevrolet-suburban-4.html

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/127599-2007-suburban-2500-4wd-fuel-system-issues/

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June 3rd, 2014, 9:22 AM

#17

Chevrolet Customer Service

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Hi Lincoln,

Thank you for providing this detailed information. As the dealerships are our eyes and ears on the field, we do recommend working with your dealership towards a resolution. Our role in the Customer Care department is to work as a liaison between the customer and the dealership to assist in a resolution. I do apologize for the frustration caused by this situation, and I realize it can be inconvenient when the concern is unable to be duplicated. If you do decide you would like our involvement at any time, we are happy to help. In regards to your inquiry about the fuel pump, if you could provide us with your VIN through a private message, we can check with our internal resources to see if further information can be provided about these parts. We look forward to your response!

Jessica
Chevrolet Customer Care

Quote:

Originally Posted by BadPunkin

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June 19th, 2017, 4:15 PM

#18

sbrenton

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was this ever solved? I am having a similar issue where my 04 suburban is stalling though the last 2 times it did this was at 1/4 tank and then right after filling at 1/4 tank. Mechanic and I both have been going nuts trying to solve this one.

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June 20th, 2017, 9:30 AM

#19

falconbrother

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A hot transmission won't cause the engine to stall or at least I have never heard of that. I've seen them lunch themselves but.. I'll bet they are not related. Makes me wonder if it's an ignition issue. Sometimes ignition issues don't surface till you're under a load, like pulling a mountain. Back in the day it was frequently fixed with a new cap and rotor button, maybe a set of wires. These days it's nice to get a code.. But, it is possible to have an issue and not get a code for a while. Second thought is maybe you're not getting enough fuel pressure - flow under high demand. Maybe the filter is clogged or the pump is on it's way out..?

I'll bet that GM did not design that Burb to shut down out on the interstate if the transmission got hot.

Last edited by falconbrother; June 20th, 2017 at 9:42 AM.

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June 20th, 2017, 9:46 AM

#20

sbrenton

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Thanks for the reply. New fuel pump was put in a couple weeks ago and when this issue happened the fuel pressure was 58psi when running and 50psi when not running and I just put the key in the on position. It could have been a little higher as it was already dropping slowly by the time I went from the cab to the engine to look at my gauge.

Other changes have been O2 sensors, exhaust with 1 new cat, plugs, wires, oil change, frayed wires fixed causing evap codes and pulsating lights, main light switch, battery, MAF sensor, frayed air bag wire, new break lines, new caliper bleeder screws ........ not sure what else. list is getting long. I know most of these do not apply to my issue but figured I would mention it in case working in those areas could cause other issues like breaking a wire or something.

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