I'm changing the front brake pads on my 2008 Suburban LT and notice that the rotor has a deep grove! After digging around, I find that the clips that hold the shoe onto the housing have a small "arm" that, I suppose, is meant to provide pressure to keep the pads in place. However, this piece of metal had bent around so that it was BETWEEN THE PAD AND THE ROTOR. Bad news for the rotor, I know.

I got a new hardware set and see that the clips are exactly the same and wanted to get some expert opinions on this. Am I missing something? I have attached a few images showing the clips, and a pad in the clip. As you can see, once the pad gets worn down, that little pressure arm could easily bend the wrong way and end up against the rotor again.

 

Welcome to the forum.

Since I haven't looked at mine on my 2010, I'm not sure what the purpose of this clip is. But I'm guessing that the clip was installed incorrectly previously. Maybe the purpose of this clip is as an anti-rattle device.

 

isn't the idea that when the pads wear to a point, that metal clip drags on the rotor when braking to make that god awful noise so you know when to replace the pads...

Also, some now have small clip/springs to keep the pads off the rotors so they don't drag when you aren't braking.

 

I have a 2007 but the clips aren't like that or those tabs broke off.

That may explain why the inside pad wears much faster than the outside pad on the driver's side. Or, GM changed the clips because of the irregular pad wear.

 

HI Barry,

did you ever find out where that little arm goes? My truck has the same clip and am unsure how to insert my pad.

Thanks,

 

All,
I work where we test automotive brakes, thes tabs are to push the pad back away from the rotor after braking, to reduce drag. Chevy had 2 different FMSI number that fit the same caliper, D1092 is 2006 and 2007 and D1363 for 2008 and newer. the friction material shape is a little different on the ends, it allows the tab to push against the backing plate. it is all a game to get less drag to improve gas milage and brake wear. the tab will rest on the friction material side of the pad. i hope this helps with the confusion. caution, those tabs break easily.

 

My team designs and makes these at my place of work and can confirm, that is their purpose. I created an account just to respond and share the knowledge even though it's an older thread, but then I saw your reply.

 

Just wanted to put in my 2￠on what I believe the proper way the clips should be installed.
I have been ASE Master Certified Automotive & ASE Master Certified Heavy Duty Truck beside several other ASE Certs
The reason I say is have been is because of the renewal fees & test. I was certified back when it was NASE no extra fees tact on it was lifetime but they wanted to squeeze more $$$s out so they made up renewal fees & tact on more test.
I did take ASE a few times but for all the crets I had it was too costly so I bowed out.
I'm in my mid 60s & started back to work @ a local shop I have been noticing the clips being installed wrong & getting into rotors. To me these little spring clips are Anti Rattle clip that go under the brake pad ears.
But it seems no one know how to install them with out bending them into the rotor.
I had just been cutting them off to keep them from getting into the rotor.
I came on tonight to see what the proper installation is on the clips in this great wide world web I could not find the answer.
What I am going to try next time I do a brake job with this set up is try install the brake pad from the inside out with the friction pad side facing the rotor that should hold the clip down & not bent it into the rotor.
That means one will have to remove the brake caliper bracket to install the pads from the inside just like if one was going to install a rotor.
I'll keep you up dated on my results.