okay well i been looking for a tahoe for last year or so.
i went to get one last weekend and it was sold 30 min before i walked through their doors. sigh

anyways . i happened to stumble upon a 07 tahoe ltz for 14000 even at a dealership.
i have checked the car fax. the vehicle for the first 4 years was registered at a commercial vehicle. probably sed by a top exec at the dealership. 2nd owner took very good care of the tahoe.

this is what the 2nd owner has had done as preventative maint.
04/24/2012
103,920 miles
Karl Chevrolet
Ankeny, IA
515-964-4255
karlchevrolet.com
Drive belt(s) replaced
Front wiper blades/refills replaced
Wiper(s) replaced
Rear differential serviced
Front differential fluid flushed/changed
Axle seal(s) replaced
Transfer case fluid flushed/changed
Oil and filter changed
Transmission fluid changed
Transmission filter replaced
Serpentine belt replaced
Rear differential fluid flushed/changed
Lights checked
A/C system checked
Steering/suspension checked
Transfer case serviced
Mirror(s) checked
Transmission serviced

with that being said. it has 160k miles on it. the first owner of this vehicle also took good care was getting reg main checkups as it was a dealership business vehicle.

though the miles worry me JUST A TAB BIT. i know chevy and i know they make great cars and truck. and ive heard nothing but good reviews on the 5.3l engines being very reliable and tough.

thoughts on this buy? my girl work at conrads and see almost every car in there a lot. but she never sees any hoes come in.

my 04 impala when i traded it in in 2012 had over 250k miles on it. only thing wrong was 2nd gear slipped a bit. but the engine still seemed strong as hell for a 3.4l

if im persuaded by you guys. i think im gunna head in sat and pick this gem up.

btw this is my frst post here. and i often do make new accoun ts on forums for every car i buy. so expect to see me trolling around if i make this deal!

cheers!

 

get one built after nov 2009. all the afm bugs have been addressed at the time of build.




14000 is steep imo. time to do all the driveline and trans fluids again after 600000 miles, spark plugs not mentioned.

 

600k? or another 60k lol?

i think that they are worth more here in ohio then anywhere else really. specially since IA life of the vehicle. i cant seem to fnd any tahoes under 14k unless they are from rinky dink car lots that dont provide carfax.

last week i test drove a 08 ltz was priced at 18k 109k on it. ltz model. i think that is overpriced imo. but it seems to be that these trucks hold great value here in cleveland.

and i will probably be doing my own maint that i can without using the dealership. spark plugs brakes oil changes etc air filters. fuel filters etc.

 

ha! 600 000 is a large service interval.


-returnless fuel system so you won't have fuel filters to change.

 

Barring any AFM issues, the engine is likely good for 250k miles before any major work needs to be done, however you should set aside some funds ($2500) for a transmission, it may last the 250k or it may fail at 161k... the transmission is a part that wears out, like a belt or brake pad does wear and will need to be replaced ( serviced/ rebuilt) at some point.

 

FWIW, I bought my 07 ltz at 172k for $14k. I think I'm at 215k now. It had a similar amount of work done, and I've done a fair amount to it so far. I'm happy with my purchase.

Things you need to look very closely at are the suspension and the tires. Those will likely be the first things and most costly things you will be replacing right away. Tires are going to run you likely north of $700. Shocks, if you get true ac delco replacement all the way around are going to be north of $1000 likely, maybe you can get that cost down if you go with a system delete or arnott replacements. The next thing is going to be ball joints and control arms. Probably around $700 give or take if everything has to be replaced. Also consider brakes, wheel bearings and the front drive shafts, pay attention to the boots on those. U-joints on the drive shafts are pretty cheap, fairly easy to do if you have access to a lift.

The price may be right, but you are likely going to have to invest some into it as well.

Stay away from the aftermarket extended warrantys. Better to bank that cash and hold for repairs.

I had my dealer change all my fluids. After my first year of towing, I changed them again, because frankly I don't know if they actually did what they said or not. That was more time consuming than expensive and a good learning experience. In fact I've done most of the work myself, save for the front shocks/control arms and ball joints. Dropping the trans pan to change the filter isn't for the faint of heart...easily the biggest challenge...one I almost gave up on to have it towed to the dealer..but that I was able to complete.

 

Oh...adding an additional trans cooler...not sure which one was tougher...probably the pan as it took me 2 solid days. The cooler, was more like 1 solid day.

 

if you have someone pry down on the ypipe (where is passes the rear right side of the pan). you can slide the pan straight forward then down...and it comes right out.

 

I have the 2007 Suburban LTZ. It had about 7K on it when I bought it. I perform all maintenance on it. The only thing major I had to do with it was rebuild the trans at 202,000 miles. The forward sprag broke. I rebuilt it myself. Everything looked great inside and all was still within spec including the clutches. Turns out, it was a bad manifold pressure switch that caused the sprag to break originally as it was still having the same problem that caused the sprag to break originally.


I'd recommend flushing the transmission more frequently and removing and cleaning or replacing the manifold pressure switch every 100k miles or so. It's only about $30. fine metal particles plug up the holes where the buttons are located and causes problems.


My wife puts 25k miles plus on it a year with local driving, minimal highway.


I've always used Mobil 1. When I rebuilt the trans, I pulled the oil pan and installed the afm shield as I was starting to lose some oil. I also did the cylinder cleaning. No problems since.


It's been a great truck but I won't every own a new one. Not because it had problems but because they are WAY overpriced now. I priced a 2016 with the same options as my 2007 and it's $70K. I paid $37K for mine only 8 years ago lightly used.

 

I bought my 07 Tahoe LT used 5 years ago w/120k on it. I changed shocks all the way around shortly after I got it. I had the trans rebuilt at 160k, I had it updated with some aftermarket parts to help it with towing. Deleted the resonator and stock muffler and replaced it with a custom magnaflow stainless unit and tail pipe. Just had the rear dif rebuilt and had a Yukon Gear carrier and all new bearings installed. I've tuned on my Tahoe with HP Tuner software and have disabled the AFM due to higher than I liked oil consumption. I don't consume or burn any oil and I have 223k on it right now.

No truck is perfect but the 07-14's were pretty good trucks. If I had to do it all over I would look for one of VERY HARD to find Tahoe's with the 6.2.