in2pro

LED's typically operate at 5vdc but it can vary depending the type of LED. If yours are surface mounted I would suspect ~5vdc or less... but they could be 12vdc.
You best bet is to pull the IP out and turn it on and measure the voltage at the LED...
Are they soldered to the panel or are they socketed?
Super Brights is a good place to find many automotive type LED's
Instrument Cluster and Gauge Backlights - Super Bright LEDs

hdtrc

They are soldered. Thanks for the reply.

coupdevill

Quick question!

Can I still drive my 2007 Suburban with the cluster out?

Thanks

JPTL

'07 Suburban LTZ - the led odometer/information display & PRNDL display would intermittently go out and a light tap between the speedo & tach could revive it....then eventually it was completely out.

Thanks to the thread starter and contributors to this thread - especially rruelas who provided the pictures on the likely place to look for a DIY repair.
His photos were helpful, but most of all, this photo

showing the failed solder was an exact duplicate of the failed contact on my board. It explains why tapping between the two big gauges brought back the display for shorter periods of time - until tapping didn't even help.
This thread and rruelas' detailed post saved me several hours in troubleshooting time, and several dollars had I given up w/DIY.
I have to conclude that this particular component (resistor?) and this exact contact point is the Achilles Heel when it comes to led display outages in our '07 and possibly later model Suburbans and Tahoes.
I've found that component failure in the circuit boards in automotive displays is not uncommon. 5 years ago I discovered the fix to a widespread issue in failed compass/temp. displays that plagued Ford F150's, Explorers, Expeditions, Merc. Mounties, and many Toyota trucks with overhead displays. It's always the same 510 resistor that would drop its solder to the board. Like rruelas, I took the time to photo document my finding and posted it to the model-specific forum. 5 years later, 500+ mechanics, DIYers - even housewives have used my fix to repair their compass displays.
I suspect that this led issue with our Suburbans and Tahoes may become more common as the years go by. Hopefully this thread and rruelas' photos will help many.

golflen

Can I carefully re-solder this? If so, low heat? Is there a particular solder I should use?

This is a great picture of the place where the problem is. Thank you very much!!!

golflen

thank you!!!!!

73shark

I'd use a rosin core 60-40 or 63-37 solder and add a small amount of flux to the joint. Just use enuf heat to flow the solder.

in2pro

Be sure to allow the iron to get fully hot and "tin" the tip with a bit of solder prior to soldering the device.
Don't hold the iron to the component too long or you can heat damage the part.

golflen

Again, Thank You everyone, for these posts!! I finally got my DIC Cluster off and did the soldering of the chip. I did find that the solder was broken on both sides of the chip. I fixed the side near the edge and took it to the vehicle and hooked it up to test. It worked until I started to push on it a little. took it back to my little workshop and found that I had to solder the three leads on the other side.
Anyway it all came out fine. Dealer want $450 for this repair.

JPTL

This photo is the cluster board from my '07 Suburban.
As you can see, the failed solder on my board is the exact spot where rruelas' solder failure occurred. Labeled by Q16. The break appears to be identical.
Anyone going after an intermittent or constant range/mpg/service/odo LED display outage on their '07/'08 Suburban/Tahoe/Denali/Escalade should start right here.
I'm guessing that this will become a widespread problem over time - if it already isn't.