niceguy88

That's awesome that you found a fix, so that b1516 code was actually shown when the van was scanned? Did you pull the code or a shop? I'm just wondering how expensive a code reader would be required to pull that battery code. Thanks for updating, it helps everyone when actual solutions are found and reported back.

12three

do you have a cheap 'elm327' reader? they are $15 or lower.
you can use bluetooth on a phone to communicate with your cars obdii port via the 'elm327'
theres an app called "torque" and another called "forscan"
torque is about $5 but theres a free torque app thats a basic code checker.
i dont know anything about forscan, but i have heard it has access to many more systems and sensors that torque cannot communicate with

niceguy88

Yeah I have torque pro and an obd2 bt adapter, I was just curious if that code needed a snap on level computer to pull that bcm code. Never heard of forscan, though I do have efi live also. Thanks for the info though

Mike Luchock

B codes are body control module codes . They can only be pulled with the tech w scanners . Also only can be diagnosed with scanner and GM software ie : testing plug or testing sensors . I purchased two sensors trying to repair mine and neither one worked . The dealer said purchase one from them GM makes them easy read for there system and I did it worked right away .

12three

yeah i have heard that forscan can do a lot lot more.
air bag lights, abs lights, can even program some keys and such.
i need to find a walkthrough or a quick guide or something...

David Woodall

i go through a battery a year, it kills the cell where if u turn it on vehicle will honk and flash lights.

Mister NCT

Just purchased a 2008 Uplander and had the local dealership install a new starter. When it was done I got an "Oh, by the way - your alternator is bad and should be replaced." They only wanted $580. Since it was working fine when I'd taken it in I drove it home with a "charging system failure" message and checked myself. What I found was the cable that comes from the alternator and connects to the positive terminal on the starter solenoid (blue cable on my car) came off in my hand when I pulled it. The eye on the crimp fitting had broken and was only held in place by the heat shrink tubing. A $1.50 fix. I wonder what my final bill would have been at the dealership once they'd replaced the alternator and found that it wasn't the problem?

Caddy Daddy

I have rehave my alternator a few times without dropping the engine. If you remove the windshield wiper motor it slides right out. As far as the voltage regulator they are known to be faulty. They cuase lights to flicker, volts to jump around, even cuase your transmission to slam into gear and bad gas mileage. Changing the alternator will still have the faulty regulator. I buy an alternator for $80 bucks ever couple years. I tried changing the regulator but I didn't feel like searching for the right replacement.