Hello, my first time posting so please forgive my grammar. Quick truck history, 1999 Silverado LT 5.3 third door. It was a barn find (really a small air plane hangar) I thought I got a great deal, it only had 52K miles, all original, not one spot of rust, not one, in the rust belt, this was the summer of 22. It sat for around 8 years without being routinely checked, started nothing was done. I come along make an offer and it is accepted another $1500 in parts replaced thanks to ethanol, the final and most expensive repair ere the #7&8 injectors, I wasn't comfortable doing it without the proper scanning tool that takes live data so I paid a highly qualified ex chevy dealer mechanic and it hasn't run rough or misfired since. He told me the injectors were totally blocked off so those two cylinders were luckily not getting any fuel when running the truck. Maybe a week after that repair the abs and brake lights dummy light both come on and the abs pump motor run with the ignition off key in pocket. So, I pull the abs fuse and honestly, I like it better this way as I don't much care for the abs in that era truck, I have had a Problem is twofold lights are still on, just the abs now because I pulled fuse and i am past due for inspection everything else will pass no problem. Second problem is I don't think I have automatic traction control anymore, the two work in tandem. I CAN'T GET THE ABS CONTROL MODULE STUPID TORX BOLTS OUT AND i AM NO BEGINNER, NOT A CAR MECHANIC BUT AN HVAC TECH AND AM GOOD AT WHAT i DO AND WITH MY HANDS,
I had more written, too much and am too tired to redo

 

post a pic of the module.
r u replacing the ebcm only or both ebcm and bpmv?

 

Just the ecbm I already checked, ran a wire wheel over and reconnected the main ground wire from the ecbm, to test my repair a simple continuity test to the neg of battery should work correct? Thank you for response any help is welcomed

 

if the grd wire you are referring to is a grd direct to the chassis....touch a powered test light to the grd...then you know it can carry current. if it grds to the module use the ohm meter. continuity tests work but you can get caught on "the one strand of wire continuity".

 

Thank you tech2 that is good information to have for both this repair and my regular profession. My amp probe has a continuity test that uses an audible ring if the circuit is closed, r complete would that be the same? it must have to send the voltage out one lead and back to the other for it to ring....? just curious, I will try a test light

 

as tech explained, the continuity test is not 100% reliable.
It's better to test with some real power, similar to what the circuit will be experiencing in duty. (ie test lamp)

 

This one the head broke off of


I was having trouble focusing because the phones camera was too close to I dont know if and of these help you or not. That was one of the best torx heads,

 

This is how it sat from sometime in 2015 to 5/2022, non heated, full to the gas cap with ethanol tapioca, that was fun. I think not positive but pretty sure it had the origibal sneakers on it still, fixed that with BFG AT ko2 LR E and coil overs

After a quick cleaning

 

you could cut a slot in the screw with a small cut off wheel and try to turn it out with a slotted screw driver or impact driver. if that fails cut the head off the screw completely.

 

If you have a Torx bit that fits in the head of the fastener and there is only a little bit of slop, you can add some valve grinding compound to the head of the fastener and then stick the bit in. The grittiness of the valve grinding compound will aid is getting a secure bite on the fastener in order to get it unscrewed,