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2011 Silverado Electrical problems - This is getting ridiculous

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Old Jul 15, 2022 | 7:15 AM
  #31  
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I'm aware that this thread is a bit dead, but I've been fighting this for a few months and have made little headway elsewhere.

I have an 08 Suburban 1500, 4WD. 130K miles currently, issues started at ~128K. Supercharged, with a 5" lift that both predate my ownership. I have had it since 120K or so.

After dealing with hard starts all winter (lows of -20°F), I pulled the corroded battery wiring and replaced it with marine rated 0 awg wire, which I properly crimped into tinned copper lugs. I did (later, after the issues started) add an additional 0 awg line before the distribution block for an audio upgrade.

I retained the factory routing for the wires that I replaced, measured resistance and continuity at every step, and fully removed the battery while routing the thick 0 awg wire.

Immediately following this, canbus codes U0102 (TCCM) and U0109 (ABS) popped up simultaneously. ABS, Brake, Traction Control, and 4WD service lights all came on at the same time.
time.

4WD high works, both in auto mode and when manually selecting 2WD and 4 high - Engagement confirmed, not merely the light. ABS and traction control do not work at all, under any conditions.

The vehicle intermittently starts in limp mode, typically during the first or second short trip of the day. This started around the same time, but is intermittent and typically stops after cycling the ignition a few times once warmed up. It's drivable, due to the additional power, but it's a nuisance.

I've confirmed the codes with a Snap-On bidirectional scanner (at a local shop), as well as my own Tech2 clone. Failed handshakes for both the ABS module and the TCCM module. No other ucodes are present.

I've cleaned and reseated the grounds for both modules (and others, while at it), blown every connection clean with compressed air, inspected for damage, and slathered with dielectric grease before reassembling. I have also replaced every single J case and mini blade fuse in both fuse blocks with new (quality) fuses. The only one that was blown was the fuse for the trailer lighting.

I measured resistance at the DLC, 120 ohms consistently. The terminating resistor above the spare tire tested at 120, so I assume that's good. I'm aware that the DLC should read 60, so I'm lost as to the cause of that discrepancy.

I'm running out of ideas... I'm not the type to throw parts at a problem until it goes away, but I'm unfortunately up against that wall now. After stumbling across this thread, I figured that the knowledge of the members here may help to fill the gaps in my own.

Thank you very much in advance!

Last edited by DrivingInCircles; Jul 15, 2022 at 7:18 AM.
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Old Sep 5, 2023 | 4:29 PM
  #32  
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Pjl
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Default Going on 8 years now

I bought my 2013 in 2015 for a suspiciously low price. I now know why. What I have found is that the truck goes into limp mode or starts throwing erroneous errors when the smallest thing is wrong and it's not fixed. For example, if I forget to reset the oil change gauge after so much time below 50% it will have this reaction. A wiring harness for a tail light did it once. A bad gas gap might have done it once. It starts with the stabilitrack warning, then limp mode, then engine light with codes from O2 sensor to evap etc. At one point the HVAC went crazy the the mechanic said I needed a new actuator. All this solved by figuring out the main issue (usually the oil change gauge). Why it does this, I still don't know. But it's made driving this truck for 8 years manageable.
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Old Sep 13, 2023 | 7:35 PM
  #33  
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@Pjl Huh?
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Old Oct 7, 2023 | 11:17 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by SIERRA_LC9
Did you find a fix for this issue?

My 2010 GMC Sierra 5.3 is throwing the same codes and going into limp mode with DTC's U0073, U0101, U0100, U0121,U0102, P0700, P069E.
Also, my truck has a small front leveling kit on the front, other than that she's stock. I live in Michigan (Salt State), but don't off road or anything.
I tried cleaning all grounds, just ordered new Pos & Neg Battery Cables.
Unplugged the TPA connector on the TCM, looked fine, undid the wiring by the trans to check for chaffed or pinched wire, nothing.
Unplugged ECM connector, applied Dielectric grease. Took the UBEC fuse block out, nothing odd. Swapped relays around.
Replaced the 120 Ohm resistor in the rear (twice), unplugged EBCM & FPCM connector with no abnormal corrosion found.
My truck will only act up above 60 Degrees, she was fine all winter.
Any help is much appreciated, I don't have the money to take her to a dealer, but at this point I just need it fixed.

I am having the exact same problem currently with my 09 Tahoe. I spent 2500 on a new engine junction wire harness and probably 600 in 3 different inspections fees. Can’t keep dumping money into it but I have told multiple mechanics that I’ve noticed it happens when it gets hotter outside. If anyone has a fix for me I’d greatly appreciate it.
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Old Aug 7, 2025 | 9:57 AM
  #35  
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I am having the same issues, same codes. I realize this thread is pretty dead, but if someone comes across it check into you fuel pump control module. After a painstaking rabbit hole of only seeing the same issues I finally found someone who had this replaced and it fixed their issues. I will be replacing mine in the next week or so and will update!
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Old Dec 9, 2025 | 7:10 PM
  #36  
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Default I've had the same issues

Originally Posted by BadchevyII
i have been dealing with same issues on a 2011 Silverado , Stabiltrac light goes on & off, door locks go up and down, total dash black out, rpms go up and down. Been to dealer, been to neighborhood repair shop. Never happens when they have it.
I've had the same issues and after of months of dead battery and jumps I finally cause the truck acting up and threw a code reader on and for a mear second I saw a code for ambiant light sensor. Since I was on the brink of selling the damn truck I said screw and and the sensor on. Have not had any issues yet and it's been few hours so we will see.
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