Cam
Yes I tried that Can you leave it unplugged and just cap it off? The light works I have a scanner and there is no codes. I've also tried the old paper clip trick and the light comes on flashes 12 three times then no codes!
I'm pretty sure you can leave it disconnected, just plug the hose. It could still leak of course. see if there's a way to completely block off the egr passage either before or after the valve.
Later vehicles monitor also EGR flow rate, and if nothing appears to go through when it should, they trigger a code.
Later vehicles monitor also EGR flow rate, and if nothing appears to go through when it should, they trigger a code.
I doubt the cam is going to change anything. It definitely would have a effect all the time. I really wish I could look at this truck for you. You could have driven the truck to MD for the money you have got into it at this point. I could almost guarantee I could fix it in 1 day. Lets try this before you replace any parts. Tie a vac gauge into direct intake vac. Give me the vac reading at Idle. Then at cruising speed and while it is acting up. There is got to be a way we can fix it over the computer but you absolutely need to do the tests how I tell you to if you have any questions about the tests ask them do not assume.
No you can not tie in there because the EGR should have a vac switch. You can tie in before the vac switch or in the brake booster hose (best place) if you have the proper fittings.
make note of how steady the needle is too.
I had another thought, you said you have a scanner? Does it show live data when the engine is running? Then you could look at the o2 sensor signal. If not, you could still read it with a voltmeter (set to millivolts) if you backprobe the sensor wire. (there may be more than one, but only one carries the signal).
A couple more tests you could do: leakdown and compression test.
I had another thought, you said you have a scanner? Does it show live data when the engine is running? Then you could look at the o2 sensor signal. If not, you could still read it with a voltmeter (set to millivolts) if you backprobe the sensor wire. (there may be more than one, but only one carries the signal).
A couple more tests you could do: leakdown and compression test.


