Does it matter when I am getting a new computer that the transmission type? I know it does on automatics but manuals?

 

I'm sure there is a way to check the ECM but I can't tell you how. I have tried downloading some data logging software and connecting it to the ALDI connector, but I couldn't establish the connection. If you get a new one match the part # on the ecm and use your prom.
Last thing is there are a bunch of places that will custom burn a prom for you.

 

The only one i've seen is that TBIchips place you showed me. He had a form on there for all your engine specs.

 

Can a knock Sensor make a truck run like crap? Thanks

 

Yes, if its bad. I think it works with you timing if its distributorless.

 

Hunting idle speed sounds like a bad or binding IAC (Idle Air Control) valve. It adjusts the amount of air that is bypassing the throttle body to keep the idle smooth. It is pretty much constantly doing something, when the engine is idling or close to idle speed. It also helps the engine run a bit stronger when you put more drag load on it, like A/C, power steering to the extreme left or right, etc.
It could just be dirty too. Disconnect the wires going to it and remove it for cleaning. Do not force the plunger in or out, do not twist it. Just clean the tip and clean whatever you can where the shaft goes into the main unit. I would just use some carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner spray. in there, no poking around with tools. External parts can be cleaned with whatever you think works best. Clean the cavity it goes into as well. Look for intake air leaks that would cause the IAC to go out of range. (Too big air leaks would cause the computer to try and close the IAC pretty much completely, and even that may not be enough so the whole system goes nuts.)


Oh yea, if it idles steady when you are just parked (no brakes applied), but acts up when you are moving slowly through a parking lot or rolling to a stop, it could be your brake booster. If they develop a leak, they sometimes leak when the brake pedal is pushed in, causing a massive "intake air leak", which the computer then tries to correct with the IAC. Listen for hissing sounds when you hit the brake pedal.

 

Yeah, what he said.......

 

Oh yea.. do yourself a favor and don't throw more aftermarket parts on it or do modifications to anything, until you have fixed the original problem. Any deviation from the original setup will only complicate things. If it ran good before with what you've got, you don't need to change anything to make it work again. Just repair what is broken.

 

Already Replaced and cleaned IAC valve I will try Brake booster thanks for the idea!

 

Bump!