My 95 C1500 has been in the garage while I have been doing repairs. Today went to start the truck and when I connected the battery cable got in the cab and the check engine light, low battery light, brake anti lock light, air bag light, all were on like the key was on an the engine had stalled.

Well the ignition switch was in the off position and the keys were in my hands. Inserted the keys into the ignition switch turned it to the run position and back to the off position, dash lights still on. Repeated turning the ignition switch on and off a few times same result lights remained on like the ignition switch was in the run position.

I think that the switch went bad from just sitting there.

Any suggestions?

Thanks for any constructive replies.

 

I would also suspect the switch, but a relay could also be stuck on....
pull a few relays and fuses and see if the lights go out...
might give the relays a slight tap to see if its stuck, if the lights stay out its likely a relay... if they come back on you will need to do a continuity check on the relay with a meter, if the relay is good then its could be the switch....

 

Just got through pulling, inspecting, cleaning and reinstalling the ignition key cylinder. There was no apparent defects in the cylinder or the housing the cylinder all look good a little wear on the parts but appear to be in good shape.

When I connect the battery there is a relay that is activating in the relay/fuze box located on the drivers side under the hood. I suspect it is the fuel pump relay. l pulled both the IGN A and IGN B fuzes one at a time and it did not resolve the issue.

Will continue troubleshooting tomorrow.

Thanks for the info.

 

Is it possible the battery is low on charge? a weak battery could be the cause...

 

Battery strong, thanks for the input tho

 

Update: I found the fuze that when removed will turn off the lights on the dash it is the ENG-1 fuze. When removed the lights go off when I out it back in the lights come back on. Just need to figure out if it is a relay, short or maybe ground.

 

Thought I found it, after checking the upper engine wiring harness, all switches, relays and removing the ignition switch, (without pulling the steering wheel). Ir started looking and moving the wiring around where I had put my feet while sitting on the fan shroud. On the lower frame there is a wiring harness that goes to the starter. Evidently I had put my feet on the wiring harness and pressed hard enough to cause the wire to short out on the steel line it was resting on. The attached photo shows the location of the shorted wiring harness. The horizontal arrow point to the wiring harness and the vertical arrow points to the line the wiring was shorted out on.

Now repair the wire and put my dash back together.

Well it wasn't the wire pictured, I did find that the wire going to the starter solenoid to activate it was bare and touching the upper A frame bolt. Taped the bare spot and it still is not right

 

Well an interesting twist. After a day of research, chasing wires, pulling fuzes related to the ignition, starting, and ECM system and removing and inspecting the instrument cluster I found the problem. I Removed the fuze for the horn and solved the problem. Instrument cluster operates correctly starts/turns off like brand new.

The horn has never worked since I got the truck and it does not even have a horn relay in the fuze box. So how did the horn fuze cause the instrument cluster to stay lit when the truck has been sitting idle in the garage for a while? You think there is something in the horn button that is causing the malfunction?