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Old July 24th, 2015, 4:25 PM
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2007 Tahoe has lost its mind....

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Old July 8th, 2017, 5:16 PM
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OMG my Chevy Suburban 2010 have the same issue as you guys came up to.
It would be great to hear some news if you can confirm that the terminal resistor / defective cable / throttle body are the most common source of that behaviour I'll get those things replaced first.

update: any idea what are the spec of that specific terminal resistor so I can test it ?

Last edited by Seveley; July 8th, 2017 at 5:34 PM. Reason: added question
Old July 9th, 2017, 8:17 AM
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[I still have my Tahoe and it's still doing fine. GM sent a tech in from up north some where. He replace both terminating resistors in the LAN harness. There is one at the back of the truck and one at the front. Don't know exact locations. He also replaced battery cables. Said they had too much resistance. He threw away several new cables that were in stock at a local dealership due to high resistance. These were brand new. Any way. Mine is still doing fine. Hope you find the issue with yours soon.
FYI. If yours starts applying the brakes on its own.... and try's to take off from a stop on its own...(mine did that). you really should take it to a dealer and show them this message. I have a friend who's Tahoe applied the brakes on its own at 70 mph in the rain on interstate. His son now has to use a wheelchair to get around.
This problem is no joke, and can cause accidents.

QUOTE=Seveley;340870]OMG my Chevy Suburban 2010 have the same issue as you guys came up to.
It would be great to hear some news if you can confirm that the terminal resistor / defective cable / throttle body are the most common source of that behaviour I'll get those things replaced first.

update: any idea what are the spec of that specific terminal resistor so I can test it ?[/QUOTE]
Old July 9th, 2017, 7:49 PM
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Good to know there is two of those.
I'll start by checking the terminal resistor as it looks to be the fastest and cheapest thing to do will keep you guys inform

Have a great day !
Old July 14th, 2017, 10:26 PM
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Default Specs for the resistor

Originally Posted by Seveley
Good to know there is two of those.
I'll start by checking the terminal resistor as it looks to be the fastest and cheapest thing to do will keep you guys inform

Have a great day !
​​​​​​
After searching a couple of hours I found it.
Both terminal have 120ohm and are in parralel which mean you should read 60 ohm with an ohmeter beetween pin 6 ans 14 of the odb2 connector below the stearing wheel.

My reading is 120ohm which mean I have either a open bus or a dead resistor.

Simple test takes 2 min ans now I know it is some bus issue.

I'll be posting more info on where to investigate as son as I get to that info.

Cya all hope this help someone out there.
Old July 19th, 2017, 10:33 PM
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I suggest replacing the battery! I had the same issue...even though dealer said battery was good and kept it over night for a few days!!
Old August 2nd, 2019, 11:25 AM
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should reading 60ohms
Old August 7th, 2022, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by Chevrolet Customer Service
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Louis
GM Customer Service
HI Louis, I came across this old thread and I am having the same problem currently with my 2007 Chevy Suburban. I was hoping that you are still active on this site and if you can recall this situation and if you can recommend a solution to this problem. Any insite you can give would be appreciated. Thank you.
Old October 17th, 2022, 4:43 PM
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Originally Posted by KJCBird54
HI Louis, I came across this old thread and I am having the same problem currently with my 2007 Chevy Suburban. I was hoping that you are still active on this site and if you can recall this situation and if you can recommend a solution to this problem. Any insite you can give would be appreciated. Thank you.


Same issue here on my 2008 Suburban. Started after replacing front end suspension parts (lower ball joint, upper control arms, sway bar links, struts, tie rod ends, cv axles). On my way to get an alignment after I finished all the problems started happening (door locks, gauges dropping, ABS, traction, Stabilitrak). Local shop swapped out the fuse box and negative cable, still has problems. In the process of cleaning all the grounds now, waiting on the firewall ground strap to get here so I can replace that. If this fails I'm going to try those resistors mentioned earlier and the positive cable.
Old October 18th, 2022, 8:37 AM
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Originally Posted by C.Sp8
Same issue here on my 2008 Suburban. Started after replacing front end suspension parts (lower ball joint, upper control arms, sway bar links, struts, tie rod ends, cv axles). On my way to get an alignment after I finished all the problems started happening (door locks, gauges dropping, ABS, traction, Stabilitrak). Local shop swapped out the fuse box and negative cable, still has problems. In the process of cleaning all the grounds now, waiting on the firewall ground strap to get here so I can replace that. If this fails I'm going to try those resistors mentioned earlier and the positive cable.
I believe i started this thread about 10-12 years ago. After trying many things at multiple body shops, what ultimately worked was replacing the throttle position sensor. They apparently can accumulate dust or simply malfunction, and then do not properly transmit the signal when you step on the throttle to the engine. Hope that helps!
Old April 24th, 2023, 9:23 AM
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Default Gauges and locks acting crazy ..fix

Originally Posted by Jimbo B
I really hope someone has some good info for me. I have an 07 Tahoe that is doing all sorts of crazy things. Stabilitrak and traction control warnings. Gauges are going crazy. Lights flashing and bells chiming. Door locks cycleing up and down like crazy. Low power/brakes dragging (maybe)? Transmission shifts really hard when it is doing all of this. Oh, and the back hatch wont open now.......... Any ideas as to what can be the problem?
Fix... Suspension module on top of spare tire cross member...
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