Can you make heads or tails of this?
December 24th, 2006, 5:04 PM
#51
RE: Can you make heads or tails of this?
LMAO^^^^^^^^^^^ HAHAHA.
I unplugged my front plugs and go mine to turn about 1 inch. I too had no room to work with! TMW, trust me it isnt as easy as he made it look! He must have pulled so hard it ripped the ends of the wires out, JK.
I unplugged my front plugs and go mine to turn about 1 inch. I too had no room to work with! TMW, trust me it isnt as easy as he made it look! He must have pulled so hard it ripped the ends of the wires out, JK.
December 24th, 2006, 5:57 PM
#52
RE: Can you make heads or tails of this?
......now, now guys - it's called finesse.
(In all seriousness, it is a contortionist's exercise to get a splice connector on that wire ONCE you actually find it!!!!!) Digital cameras make it look easier than it is.
\
Also, I can confirm the wire location shown in the picture is correct as is thenav plug (Brown C4 connector pin 5). My guidance is now operational - as is my Kenwood CCD 900 rear view camera (now that was a pain to fish the video wire through the hatch grommet & flex tube!) --- took about 6 hours to pull off trim run wires and replace.
(In all seriousness, it is a contortionist's exercise to get a splice connector on that wire ONCE you actually find it!!!!!) Digital cameras make it look easier than it is.
\
Also, I can confirm the wire location shown in the picture is correct as is thenav plug (Brown C4 connector pin 5). My guidance is now operational - as is my Kenwood CCD 900 rear view camera (now that was a pain to fish the video wire through the hatch grommet & flex tube!) --- took about 6 hours to pull off trim run wires and replace.
December 24th, 2006, 6:02 PM
#53
RE: Can you make heads or tails of this?
Yeah man. I just tried unplugging the fronts, and I see that most of the resistance is from the back anyway. Not sure I'm going to tackle it today. I might wait until I head back out to Cali to have one of my boys do it for me. I don't want to f it up.
December 24th, 2006, 6:06 PM
#54
RE: Can you make heads or tails of this?
konasmrz,
Thanks for the details!
The camera is the next install for me! However I am unsure if I want to go with the factory camera, or the kenwood.
What all did you have to do to intall the kenwood? Is it as simple as installing the camera, making a maze out of the wires to get them to the head unit, and plugging it in??? I know you said it is a long and painful process to get the wires through, but is there more to it?
Thanks for the details!
The camera is the next install for me! However I am unsure if I want to go with the factory camera, or the kenwood.
What all did you have to do to intall the kenwood? Is it as simple as installing the camera, making a maze out of the wires to get them to the head unit, and plugging it in??? I know you said it is a long and painful process to get the wires through, but is there more to it?
December 24th, 2006, 6:55 PM
#55
RE: Can you make heads or tails of this?
The camera install is actually pretty simple. The difficult part is figuring out how all the trim comes off as you have to "feel around" before you force anything for fear of breaking it. I have the 1st generation GM lockpik so I used +12v switched off it (red wire) for camera power.
These are the steps: (of course always disconnect the negative battery cable first)
1. Add about 5' of wire to GM Lockpick red (12v switched) & black (gnd) pigtails and plug in a video cable about the same length; put this bundle in a convolute tubing shield then run under the passenger side of the console into the cable tray under the passenger seat (pull deat all the way forward to expose). This is where you will place the Kenwood electronics box (small ~ 1x2").
2. Remove the passenger side sill plates; rear passenger seat belt retainer bolt (star bolt, don't remember the size) then the following trim in order:
- Rear headliner finish panel (top of roof - rear) only clips holding
- Passenger rear pillar trim, remove screw behind cover first then pop off clips(this panel has the Bose speaker grille)
- Passenger "dogleg" trim (from where you removed the seatbelt star bolt) clips only
- Passenger wheelhouse cover trim (this is the big molded piece that has a 12v connector in it)
3. Remove the hatch trim:
- Open window & remove two "pop" clips by latch - you can unlatch these by inserting a screwdriver in the latch slot & pushing the plungers up from behind
- Remove the 2 handle bolts
- everything else is all clips as I recall, carefully pop them out (I had to use a long screwdriver wrapped in masking tape to get at some of the innermost ones)
4. Remove the wiper arm (10mm nut as I recall) be careful not to tear the washer hose....
5. Remove the wiper motor (large nut on the outside and two 10mm nuts on the inside)
6. Remove 4 nuts holding on the license lamp housing (these were either 8 or 10mm) then use a pair of very long needle nose pliers to compress the two pop clips holding each side of the housing)
7.Fish the camera connector through the hatch grommet (I used a pair of longnose pliers inserted through the grommet cone then expanded it with the pliers held open then pushed the connector through)
8. Clean off the mounting pad (rectangular recessed location between the license plate lamps) with wax/grease remover, let dry, then apply the camera bracket (it has attached trim tape). I also drilled a single hole through the bracket & housing and put in a rivit for good measure.
9. Notch the edge of the housing for the cable, attach the camera to the bracket (2 screws), then remount the housing on the hatch.
10. - Now the fun part, run the camera's video cable parallel to the existing wire harness tie wrapping it every 6 inches or so. Remove the flex tube between the hatch & the body by gently wiggling the rubber off the nylon frames then folding it back over itself. Note, the nylon frames should stay attached to the body & hatch at this point. Using the same "needle nose expansion technique" detailed earlier, insert pliers and expand the accordion like flex tube taking care not to go too far & rip it. At this point I had to run a piece of 12 ga wire through as a fish, then taped the end of the connector to it and pulled it back through the flex tube.
11. At this point, pull the rest of the wire through and lay it out in the sill plate wire trays to the Kenwood electronics box under the passenger front seat.
12. Next you need to attach the pink wire off the Kenwood to a reverse light. Remove the two screws holding on the right tail light housing and pop it off the two clips. There is a hole covered with flexible tape painted over that you can punch a hole through for the wire & retain a weather seal - run the pink wire through this and attach to the colored reverse light wire (it was either green or blue - the other two wires on the light are black)
13. Put the video wire and pink reverse wire in some 1/4" spiral wrap for protection the full length from the back to under the passenger seat (~ 10')
14. Hook up the 12v switched wire & black ground wire, plug in the connector & video cables
15. Replace the wiper motor and reconnect its harness
16. Reattach the negative battery cable and test
17. If everything works, stop, have a beer and get ready to spend a few more hours putting all the trim back on in reverse order!
These are the steps: (of course always disconnect the negative battery cable first)
1. Add about 5' of wire to GM Lockpick red (12v switched) & black (gnd) pigtails and plug in a video cable about the same length; put this bundle in a convolute tubing shield then run under the passenger side of the console into the cable tray under the passenger seat (pull deat all the way forward to expose). This is where you will place the Kenwood electronics box (small ~ 1x2").
2. Remove the passenger side sill plates; rear passenger seat belt retainer bolt (star bolt, don't remember the size) then the following trim in order:
- Rear headliner finish panel (top of roof - rear) only clips holding
- Passenger rear pillar trim, remove screw behind cover first then pop off clips(this panel has the Bose speaker grille)
- Passenger "dogleg" trim (from where you removed the seatbelt star bolt) clips only
- Passenger wheelhouse cover trim (this is the big molded piece that has a 12v connector in it)
3. Remove the hatch trim:
- Open window & remove two "pop" clips by latch - you can unlatch these by inserting a screwdriver in the latch slot & pushing the plungers up from behind
- Remove the 2 handle bolts
- everything else is all clips as I recall, carefully pop them out (I had to use a long screwdriver wrapped in masking tape to get at some of the innermost ones)
4. Remove the wiper arm (10mm nut as I recall) be careful not to tear the washer hose....
5. Remove the wiper motor (large nut on the outside and two 10mm nuts on the inside)
6. Remove 4 nuts holding on the license lamp housing (these were either 8 or 10mm) then use a pair of very long needle nose pliers to compress the two pop clips holding each side of the housing)
7.Fish the camera connector through the hatch grommet (I used a pair of longnose pliers inserted through the grommet cone then expanded it with the pliers held open then pushed the connector through)
8. Clean off the mounting pad (rectangular recessed location between the license plate lamps) with wax/grease remover, let dry, then apply the camera bracket (it has attached trim tape). I also drilled a single hole through the bracket & housing and put in a rivit for good measure.
9. Notch the edge of the housing for the cable, attach the camera to the bracket (2 screws), then remount the housing on the hatch.
10. - Now the fun part, run the camera's video cable parallel to the existing wire harness tie wrapping it every 6 inches or so. Remove the flex tube between the hatch & the body by gently wiggling the rubber off the nylon frames then folding it back over itself. Note, the nylon frames should stay attached to the body & hatch at this point. Using the same "needle nose expansion technique" detailed earlier, insert pliers and expand the accordion like flex tube taking care not to go too far & rip it. At this point I had to run a piece of 12 ga wire through as a fish, then taped the end of the connector to it and pulled it back through the flex tube.
11. At this point, pull the rest of the wire through and lay it out in the sill plate wire trays to the Kenwood electronics box under the passenger front seat.
12. Next you need to attach the pink wire off the Kenwood to a reverse light. Remove the two screws holding on the right tail light housing and pop it off the two clips. There is a hole covered with flexible tape painted over that you can punch a hole through for the wire & retain a weather seal - run the pink wire through this and attach to the colored reverse light wire (it was either green or blue - the other two wires on the light are black)
13. Put the video wire and pink reverse wire in some 1/4" spiral wrap for protection the full length from the back to under the passenger seat (~ 10')
14. Hook up the 12v switched wire & black ground wire, plug in the connector & video cables
15. Replace the wiper motor and reconnect its harness
16. Reattach the negative battery cable and test
17. If everything works, stop, have a beer and get ready to spend a few more hours putting all the trim back on in reverse order!
December 28th, 2006, 10:04 AM
#56
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RE: Can you make heads or tails of this?
First, thank you all for the detailed descriptions and guidelines regarding this subject. Great forum!
I have a question regarding the two wires dedicated for the backup camera on connector C4 (pin 6 and 7). I have three wires connected to the C4 connector:
5 D-GN/WH Vehicle Speed Signal (UVC)
6 PKCamera Signal #2 + (UVC)
7 L-BU Camera Signal #2 (UVC)
This is exactly as ZX1100F1 described earlier in this thread.
The green/white wire is routed to the junction box but does anyone know where the pink and light-blue wiresend? If these two wires end up below or close to the passenger seat, then I should connect the camera from there. If not, should I then just make a T-connection on these two wires, close to the C4 connector to connect the camera? Or should I just cut the wires and only connect an RCA to the C4 connector?
I have a 2007 Suburban LTZ with nav and rear entertainment system, but the car was unfortunately delivered without the backup camera
. I have ordered a Kenwood CCD-900 and I willfollow the excellent guidelines fromKonasmrz.
Thanks!
/Par
I have a question regarding the two wires dedicated for the backup camera on connector C4 (pin 6 and 7). I have three wires connected to the C4 connector:
5 D-GN/WH Vehicle Speed Signal (UVC)
6 PKCamera Signal #2 + (UVC)
7 L-BU Camera Signal #2 (UVC)
This is exactly as ZX1100F1 described earlier in this thread.
The green/white wire is routed to the junction box but does anyone know where the pink and light-blue wiresend? If these two wires end up below or close to the passenger seat, then I should connect the camera from there. If not, should I then just make a T-connection on these two wires, close to the C4 connector to connect the camera? Or should I just cut the wires and only connect an RCA to the C4 connector?
I have a 2007 Suburban LTZ with nav and rear entertainment system, but the car was unfortunately delivered without the backup camera
. I have ordered a Kenwood CCD-900 and I willfollow the excellent guidelines fromKonasmrz.Thanks!
/Par
December 28th, 2006, 1:11 PM
#57
RE: Can you make heads or tails of this?
I'd just put a female RCA jack on those two wires in case you want to change your camera at any point, or just hardwire your camera right to them, but do this behind the head-unit. Don't run it under the passenger seat. (Don't know why you'd want to run it there anyway.) Again, right behind the radio unit next to the C4 connector itself.
January 2nd, 2007, 9:07 PM
#58
RE: Can you make heads or tails of this?
The Kenwood CCD 900 has a small electronics box that the video cable plugs into - just like the GM unit. I put it in basically the same place as the factory camera module under the passenger seat. Location of the wire tray runs along the door sills to the "T" junction under the passenger seat also seemed easire than fishing the cable under the kick panel & through the dash.
In my case, with the GM lockpik box & harness there was little room left under the radio to cram the module in. Also, if ledigt? is installing in a Suburban the Kenwood harness might not be long enough to make it to the dash........
In my case, with the GM lockpik box & harness there was little room left under the radio to cram the module in. Also, if ledigt? is installing in a Suburban the Kenwood harness might not be long enough to make it to the dash........
January 2nd, 2007, 11:42 PM
#59
RE: Can you make heads or tails of this?
ORIGINAL: konasmrz
The Kenwood CCD 900 has a small electronics box that the video cable plugs into - just like the GM unit. I put it in basically the same place as the factory camera module under the passenger seat. Location of the wire tray runs along the door sills to the "T" junction under the passenger seat also seemed easire than fishing the cable under the kick panel & through the dash.
In my case, with the GM lockpik box & harness there was little room left under the radio to cram the module in. Also, if ledigt? is installing in a Suburban the Kenwood harness might not be long enough to make it to the dash........
The Kenwood CCD 900 has a small electronics box that the video cable plugs into - just like the GM unit. I put it in basically the same place as the factory camera module under the passenger seat. Location of the wire tray runs along the door sills to the "T" junction under the passenger seat also seemed easire than fishing the cable under the kick panel & through the dash.
In my case, with the GM lockpik box & harness there was little room left under the radio to cram the module in. Also, if ledigt? is installing in a Suburban the Kenwood harness might not be long enough to make it to the dash........