getting a suburban
#12
Transmission, door pin / bushing, intake gasket, transmission and intake gasket. Did I mention transmission and intake gasket? I just bought a 98 K1500 4x4, 5.7 with 130k on it for $2600. Two days later, check engine light came on and transmission starts slipping. Had tranny rebuilt. Got a smoking deal at $850, using a master rebuild kit. Then took it to the dealership, and had them do an inspection. Here is what they want for repairs: Oil pan gasket $760 (that's right... almost 800 bucks to replace the gasket). Intake gasket $850. Worth mentioning is that the encoder that changes from 2x4 to 4x4 is bad, and needs replacement ($600 at the dealership). A week after buying it, it developed a whine in the transfer case area. Dealership and tranny shop both want $$$$ to diagnose.
#13
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Location: College Park, MD
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I got my 99 Chevy Suburban LT 5.7 for $3000 with 267,000 on it. It came "loaded" with very decent-condition leather, power heated seats, tow package and a bunch of other bells and whistles.
I haven't had any issues aside from common interior quality problems (i.e. plastic junk falling off occasionally), and I think the tape deck might be busted. My A/C has been solid for the past 30,000 miles I've put on it, and the engine has given me zero issues thus far, even in cold weather. The only problem I seem to be running into now is some transmission stuff (actually posted in another thread a few minutes ago...). However, we're talking about a truck with 300,000 miles on an original engine and tranny, so issues should be expected at some point.
I know the previous owner of my vehicle and he babied it, but since I've owned it I've done a fair share of heavy pulling, hauling, and traveling, probably more so than he ever did.
Unless the truck is in absolutely stellar condition, I wouldn't pay $5000 for it. Any kind of major high-mileage issues with the engine or transmission aren't going to be cheap, so keep that in mind...but I'm also no true Chevy expert, and I'm sure you're away that every truck is different depending on how the previous owner treated it. With that kind of mileage it really becomes a toss-up.
Not worth the $5k, in my opinion. Good luck!
I haven't had any issues aside from common interior quality problems (i.e. plastic junk falling off occasionally), and I think the tape deck might be busted. My A/C has been solid for the past 30,000 miles I've put on it, and the engine has given me zero issues thus far, even in cold weather. The only problem I seem to be running into now is some transmission stuff (actually posted in another thread a few minutes ago...). However, we're talking about a truck with 300,000 miles on an original engine and tranny, so issues should be expected at some point.
I know the previous owner of my vehicle and he babied it, but since I've owned it I've done a fair share of heavy pulling, hauling, and traveling, probably more so than he ever did.
Unless the truck is in absolutely stellar condition, I wouldn't pay $5000 for it. Any kind of major high-mileage issues with the engine or transmission aren't going to be cheap, so keep that in mind...but I'm also no true Chevy expert, and I'm sure you're away that every truck is different depending on how the previous owner treated it. With that kind of mileage it really becomes a toss-up.
Not worth the $5k, in my opinion. Good luck!
#14
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I'm late joining this party, but my info may help someone else reading this thread.
I took a '93 Suburban 1500 up to 205,000 before trading it in recently on a 2007 2500. Worst problem I ever had was a transmission failure at 148,000--and even then I was able to limp home from 100 miles away. I maintained it by the book, and even with the high mileage it was spot-on reliable, with the major components still in great shape.
Only in the last year or so did the problems start showing up--all nickel-and-dime stuff. A broken ignition lock cylinder. A $2.00 plastic quick-connect fitting on a heater hose (mis-diagnosed as a blown intake manifold gasket with a $1200 repair estimate until I got in there and looked for myself). The radio quit. Finally, I was told that I'd have to replace the catalytic converter to pass the bi-annual smog test. When I added up the cost of every little thing it needed to bring it back to 100%, it was more than the truck was worth.
The dealer gave me $500 for it--although, to be fair, he'd already cut the price of the '07 to the bone.
So yes, they'll run practically forever if well-maintained, but for $5K with that kind of mileage, EVERYTHING had better be right with it.
I took a '93 Suburban 1500 up to 205,000 before trading it in recently on a 2007 2500. Worst problem I ever had was a transmission failure at 148,000--and even then I was able to limp home from 100 miles away. I maintained it by the book, and even with the high mileage it was spot-on reliable, with the major components still in great shape.
Only in the last year or so did the problems start showing up--all nickel-and-dime stuff. A broken ignition lock cylinder. A $2.00 plastic quick-connect fitting on a heater hose (mis-diagnosed as a blown intake manifold gasket with a $1200 repair estimate until I got in there and looked for myself). The radio quit. Finally, I was told that I'd have to replace the catalytic converter to pass the bi-annual smog test. When I added up the cost of every little thing it needed to bring it back to 100%, it was more than the truck was worth.
The dealer gave me $500 for it--although, to be fair, he'd already cut the price of the '07 to the bone.
So yes, they'll run practically forever if well-maintained, but for $5K with that kind of mileage, EVERYTHING had better be right with it.
#15
CF Veteran
I paid $1500 for my 1993 with 174K miles.
What came with the truck?
a. 3 Ton floor jack with tranny adapter
b. bunch of pneumatic air tools and assorted shop tools-wrenches, pliers, etc.
c. 1000 lb engine stand
d. 4 wheel ramps
e. Portable air compressor
f. Sledge Hammer
g. air cylinder
h. electric motor
The tools if new would be worth more than the truck but even old are still worth more than the truck.
What it needed?
Rear Brakes & RR Drum
Serpentine Belt(the previous owner thought the rattling in the head was rocker arm wear because he bought them all but never installed them. I replaced the old belt and the noise went away. Sucker!)
Front/Rear Shocks.
Turn Signal Switch/Cancel Cam
Alignment
A/C recharge
What I did so far?
Radio with 200 W amp.
Replace Idle speed solenoid
Refill rear diff
Replace master cylinder
Auxiliary switch for Hazard lights-separate lights.
Converted AC from R12 to R12a, still cold.
What came with the truck?
a. 3 Ton floor jack with tranny adapter
b. bunch of pneumatic air tools and assorted shop tools-wrenches, pliers, etc.
c. 1000 lb engine stand
d. 4 wheel ramps
e. Portable air compressor
f. Sledge Hammer
g. air cylinder
h. electric motor
The tools if new would be worth more than the truck but even old are still worth more than the truck.
What it needed?
Rear Brakes & RR Drum
Serpentine Belt(the previous owner thought the rattling in the head was rocker arm wear because he bought them all but never installed them. I replaced the old belt and the noise went away. Sucker!)
Front/Rear Shocks.
Turn Signal Switch/Cancel Cam
Alignment
A/C recharge
What I did so far?
Radio with 200 W amp.
Replace Idle speed solenoid
Refill rear diff
Replace master cylinder
Auxiliary switch for Hazard lights-separate lights.
Converted AC from R12 to R12a, still cold.
Last edited by RacerX; October 21st, 2011 at 11:06 PM.
#16
Administrator
#17
i talked them down to 3500....i had my mechanic change the intake gasket and u joints in the rear driveshaft...only charged me $430 for everything....runs awesome, just needs new plugs and wires...love this truck, previous owner took very good care of it, the leather is like brand new, only a couple of very minor defects on the dash and glove compartment...we are a family of 5 with 2 teenage boys that are 5'10 and 6'1 and there is still more than enough room...the whole family loves it
#18
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