shawnvw

haven't really had problems with using just tape but I do agree that shrink tubing is better.

guvner

Shawn...

On the wiring of the back LCD I have some questions. Crutchfields experts are all swearing it isn't needed but they swore about a couple other things that turned out to not be quite right. They're decent but we went over some things more then once and had to undo previous instructions.

It sounds like you want an isolation relay powered by the radio. The GMOS that was sold to me has 3 harnesses to plug in not two like the picture shown everywhere on the web. (webpicture shows one gray one and one double wide black one) I'm assuming that the Gray one is the one you described but the black one is the one I have two of.One has a space for the fuse and the other is just a straight plug but those two are basically in the same wiring harness like the double plug shown on the web. If it is an isolation relay like I spoke of can you tell me what two are the controls for the 12 volt coil and which two (I'm assuming one is coming from the 12 switching power supply and the outside goes to a wire that you probably already mentioned heading towards the + power needs of the infrared control.)

If you could sketch that up it would be greatly appreciated as visual for me is much easier. If you don't have time I understand but I will draw it up for you to look at and make sure I have handle on it. To be honest everything seems to be working just fine other then the fact that if the back infrared headphones were working I have no idea how to even turn them on. I'm assuming you're right though as I flip on XM and the speaker sound goes away but the video keeps on the back screen. I flipped on the headphones in case it was an auto thing but never heard a peep. Talk about a tight fit though. It took me forever to just get it back into the dash.

Thanks for any help you can offer...

Gary

shawnvw

So to make it easy to understand....you need to apply 12+ and 12- to the coil to turn on a relay. A relay coil only needs 200mA to turn on. Relay coils are not polarity sensitive so don't worry about hooking it up backwards
In the off position, pin 30 and 87a are in contact. When the coil is energized, pins 87 and 30 come in contact while it leaves 87a to just sit there.
To amplify the power like I stated, you will put 85 to ground, 86 to the blue\white wire of the radio. 30 to the yellow wire of the radio, and 87 to the white wire in the black connector. Do not hook any wires up to 87a

guvner

I get some things while I'm dark on a few others. So it's a single pole, double throw relay. It keeps the ampdraw down on the radio yet feeds the needed ampdraw to the IR. I see the plug and probably could identify it if I knew which plug I was working on. Since you're a GM Certified Tech am I correct in assuming that it is one of the 2 black plugs that go in to the GMOS-02? I really need to know which plug is the C1. And also what relay to use for this. Is it available at an auto supply house?

On the upper screen job is the #4 pink wire something I have to worry about as long as it's pink? Will I need to know which pin is #4? Same question for the white #8 pin? Is there more then one possibility for the two plugs? (In other words I haven't pulled it down yet and don't know how many plugs I'll see when I do.)

Incidentally the techs at Crutchfield are watching this thread trying to digest the same. We were both reading along to your answers...

Have a good one and thanks for all your help... I might have to send you a gift card for your favorite lunch... (Actually you can count on it..)

On reading your instructions for a second time I'm realizing the pin 87 I'm hooking the relay to is also the wire I'm taking the power back out of at the top to hook to the underpowered IR.. (do I have that correct?)

Thanks... Gary

guvner

I searched the 12volt.com website that is mentioned in your picture but it's search left me with no relay by name. I will take it apart tomorrow after I find a relay of some sort and assume the blue/white wire of the radio must be going to the white wire that you are talking about in the black connector. In the earlier post you said cutting the white wire would allow you to use the radio side of the wire to power the hot side of your coil (making me think that since youmention the Blue/white wire this time they are related in the wiring.)in the relay. I am assuming that also means the blue/white wire mentioned. The other side of the cut heading toward the overhead monitor goes to the normally open 87 pin (N.O.) I will head out to Autozone tomorrow morning and see if there's a relay out there with the numbers you've mentioned. I have to guess at what you're saying as I haven't done this before so you'll have to excuse my nervousness with the expensive stereo and my 2007 Tahoe.

I'll report back

guvner

I think I found a relay online that has the same pinouts... But what will a negative spike suppression do for me or against me. It looks to have a resister across the 12 volt coil. Anyone know anything about the more common relays found with the vehicles?

Thanks.. Gary

shawnvw

Its a diode. When you de-energize a magnetic, a voltage spike occurs....which could potentially feed back and damage electronics. Same principle that an ignition coil works on. The diode take this voltage spike and sends it straight to ground instead of back through the triggering source. I have never had an issue using relays without this diode. If you are going to use his type, beware that the coil is polarity sensitive.
You can use a single pole single throw relay if its cheaper. You are only using the 4 pins of it. Go to a local radio shop, or jobber....they should have tons of them with the sockets for about $15. AND there is usually a diagram printed on the side of the relay

Connector C1 is the connector with the main power and ground in it. Pin 6 is the white wire that you'll be hooking up to the relay. It powers the factory amp, antenna module, and the overhead video(s).

When you drop the overhead video, you'll find 2 connectors. 1 going to the screen, and the other going to the infared module.
AT THE INFARED MODULE: I believe there is only 1 pink wire there but goto pin #4 and cut that wire. Cut it long enough to tapitinto the video harness. Tape up the vehicle side of it.
AT THE SCREEN HARNESS: Locate the white wire in pin 8. hook the pink wire from the infared module to this wire. This is the same wire that is at the radio connector.

Hope i got all your questions....let me know if i missed anything


P.S.
HI CRUTCHFIELD[sm=icon_stickpoke.gif]

guvner

Thanks Shawn... I'm heading out to the driveway relay in hand. Found one at local auto parts store with the 4 terminals needed even numbered alike.

I do have another installation question I hope someone has some experience on. I bought the rearview license plate camera for my Tahoe. What is the recommended routing for this wire going from back there to the new radio?

Thanks again... Gary..

guvner

Shawn.. Anyone?? How do you get the factory overhead LCD (Panasonic) to drop down. I removed the 4 visible screws but it comes down about 3/4" and acts like there's something else that has to come down too...

Thanks... Gary

shawnvw

pull down....there are a few clips holding it in there. you can use aplastic prybar as well if you have one. Same goes for the infared module...no screws just clips

License plate cam should have a hole drilled behind the license plate for the wire to enter the hatch, then run through the boot going from hatch to body, then down the side and up to the front