In2pro,
I might rephrase my question. I assume same thing then you do, but I never own Tahoe and what I know this solenoid is locate on the back of spare wheel compartment. You see in Silverado is between rear side of cab and front wall of bad. Do I have accesses there? That is my question. I don’t really want to drop thank to access to solenoid.
I also have another question. You may know how I can check solenoid if is working or not before I will replace?...
NoLife1980

 

I'm a little confused here.
Although some sites (Amazon) indicate that p.n. #19207763 (AC Delco #214-2082) won't fit an '07 Suburban, I'm pretty sure it's an applicable part or at least was an applicable part, as Lorenzep and a few others reference using it with success in this thread. It doesn't come with the hose - at least the Amazon and Rock Auto part (link) doesn't show it with a hose.
However Slashmat refers to an 'updated version', and Turfpro102 links to a YouTube vid in which the author uses GM p.n. 20995472 - "EVAP canister vent/valve/hoses/filter assembly" and a needed "Electrical adapter/harness" (p.n. 19257603) with success on his '07 Suburban.
Rock Auto references this part when using their catalog. No correlation of 214-2082 or 19207763 being a correct vent canister part for the '07 Suburban on the Rock Auto site.
Is there a difference in the design of these parts aside from the later part coming with the hose and filter & the adapter/harness?
Does anyone know if there's a preference to use one kit instead of the other?

 

Good info in this thread! I'm glad to have found all this.

I got the P0455 code last night on our 05 Suburban. Only 86K on it.

My question is...what is the concise answer to get this fixed? I keep on seeing two different fixes in this thread..one is for the 449 code, and the other is for the 445 code. I don't have the 449. Just the 445 so far.

 

We just picked up a 05 Z71 'burban last weekend with only 53k. Problem was it was 300 miles away and the engine light came on yesterday. Had my local guy pull the P0455 and clear it. Light came back on again. I am going to replace the gas cap first and see what happens. I feel much better about this light after reading this entire post.

 

Honestly, you might save your money on the gas cap, and just order the canister that everyone is talking about in this thread, and replace it. I tried the gas cap route too, and no luck. Please keep in mind, I'm not a mechanic by any means.....car trouble scares the crud out of me because I know I'm usually going to have to shell out cash to have something fixed. BUT.....I replcaced this canister myself with no problems what so ever. I bought the part on Amazon. I think I paid a $30.00 bill (give or take) and that included shipping. It's about a 15 minute job to replace. Buy some 5/8" rubber heater hose and a couple worm clamps. You can't go wrong.

 

This is unbelievable how can be 15 minutes job if I have to remove whole rear of the truck? I don't get it one guy said 15 minutes job other said 2 hours make you guys mind in which truck are you talking about? Look like all trucks are look same but they are totally different.

 

I agree with skipping the cap purchase. If 445 came up and the cap was properly secured, odds are it's more likely an early sign of solenoid/canister failure than it is a faulty cap.
My guess is that most here experienced the 445 code followed by the 449 code indicating a bad canister.
15 minutes is doable if you have a lift, but I have to say that's a bit optimistic. Most folks don't have a lift & have their spare in place with the tools stowed, so prepare for some tool-getting & crawling time. The job can be done without jack stands, but it involves some closer axle-to-face work. Of course putting the truck on stands makes everything more accessible, but takes time as well.
You don't have to remove the 'whole rear of the truck'.
You do have to remove the rear spare, and replace it after the job. This is one of the most time consuming steps in the job.
Getting the spare tire tools & the spare down can take some time if you've never done that before. If the 'safety' latch is corroded, you may have a hell of a time getting that spare down. Do yourself a favor and grease that latch while you're at it. Dropping the spare is a drill that everyone should go through in the comfort & convenience of their garage or driveway so that you're well versed when the time comes that you need to change your tire along the Interstate - in the rain. It's a flaky design & an odd procedure that's not obvious to anyone.
The other bugger is angling yourself to get to the foremost coupler if you're attempting the job without using jack stands.
All in all, it's worth doing yourself to save a little..no... a lot of $ in parts and labor.
I waited until it was a decent day where I had some time to get grimy & get some grit in my hair - and my wife wasn't sitting in the house waiting to get her Suburban back. About an hour later all was good. Job done, no CEL, the peace of mind that I'd properly repaired an emission issue and saved some money doing it.
Now if only I could get my wife to appreciate all that I do a bit more.

 

That is such excellent advice, I am going re-post it again.... cause you can't say that enough....


Dropping the spare is a drill that everyone should go through in the comfort & convenience of their garage or driveway so that you're well versed when the time comes that you need to change your tire along the Interstate - in the rain. It's a flaky design & an odd procedure that's not obvious to anyone.

 

Well, I bought a new gas cap and it didn't look the one that was on it, and my code went away. Still chasing a P0178 fuel composition sensor but that seems to be pretty straightforward. Either replace the composition sensor or get the bypass module and then I cannot run E85. Bypass module is $150 and I can do it as opposed to $400 and I could but do not want to do it. Thanks for all the good advice.

 

The placement of your vent valve celenoid must be different than my truck. I have an 06 quad cab, 2 wheel drive. The part I changed was mounted on the drivers side frame rail, directly in front of the charcoal filter box, which is directly in front of the fuel tank. I had plenty of room without putting the truck on stands. (I'm 6'-4, 250#)
I guess I assumed they were all in the same general area as my 06.
Glad you completed it yourself.