Thanks JPTL and travis5292,
Looks like I am in wrong forum. Everyone over here has different truck then me. JPTL has Suburban, travis5292 has 06 quad cap 2 wheel drive, and other people here has something else. And everybody assumes the all trucks are the same, well they look a like but obviously they build different. Thanks JPTL you mention which truck you have and how long take you to change this part. Probably you truck takes 15 minutes, in my truck replace the spare wheel with do nothing, because solenoid is between the thank and front cab, so spare wheel is far to the end of the truck. On top of this the pipe which delivers fuel to thank is on the way to the solenoid so I can see solenoid but is no way to reach it, I can’t even put my hand there. If I will drop thank or remove rear part of the truck then I will have access to solenoid with no problems, but I don’t think this going to takes 15 minutes. However I am not mechanic also, I don’t know much about trucks I just try save some $$$ that is it. If anyone has same truck then me in this forum or know any other forum has similar subject and change this solenoid please tell me how you did with out removing this unnecessary parts.

Owner 2003 Silverado Z71 with 5.3 L engine and extended cab.

English language is not my native language.
NoLife1980

 

You are right on! The same engineer that designed the "heated windwshield washer fluid circuit" most have also designed the spare tire mount. GM is getting worse instead of better the spare tire locking mech. is a joke and everyone should try to drop it after there is 30K on the clock and see what happens. Thomas J. Jachim,
Not do mention that the mileage they advertise is not even close!

 

I agree about the EPA mileage but then that's true w/ all mfgs. It's just not real world.

However the Heated Washer Fluid debacle was the fault of the bean counters, not the engineers. I put the same one on my 2010 made by the company that bought the design from the original company that GM bankrupted prior to going bankrupt themselves. Sort of ironic. Works like a champ.

 

We had our heated fluid module pulled after I saw a Suburban's heated fluid start an engine fire in Canada.

<object style="height: 390px; width: 640px">


<embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/zpvkBFFNTvE?version=3&feature=player_detailpage" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true" allowscriptaccess="always" height="360" width="640"></object>

 

Bean counters make lousy engineers.

 

I have a p0449 code i know what the problem is but i can't seem to find any diagrams or videos that tell me how to replace the evap canister solenoid. Can anyone please help?

 

I have the same problem on my 2010 malibu but i can't seem to find any videos or diagrams that show me how to replace the evap canister solenoid. can anyone help me?

 

Went thru the same thing - did some on line research by Googling the code. SUPER amazing results - depending on where you live and what parts stores you have in your area - The design of the carbon canister, which is located under the rear of your vehicle hooked to the frame is a lousy design and location. I found out that the replacement part is a selenoid canister (carbon) that has a vent line that runs up to the filler neck gets basically screwed up by "over filling" your gas tank - by that I mean that if you try to round up your gas $ at the pump it can actually go down that tube and ruin the selenoid. If you go to a GM dealer they're gonna whack ya almost $150 for just the part! Go to a NAPA or other parts place and get the part. I'm told that it's the exact same on a Subaru for about $30. Easy fix - while at parts store pick up about 8' of 5/8" heater hose and 3 hose clamps (makes the job sooooo much easier). Lower the spare tire and remove it from under the vehicle. Tools required; a good utility knife and a flat head screw driver for the hose clamps. The selenoid is located up on the frame where the spare tire was. It has two openings one higher than the other on opposite sides. It's a canister shape about 3' high. It has an electrical plus with two wires. Unplug that connection. Remove it from the frame by sliding it off the bracket. You will see a shiny black line and on the other side is factory end. Unhook the "factory" connection by inserting the tip of the screwdriver into each side and sliding it past the neck of the connection. Use your utility knife to cut the shiny black line on the other end as close to the connector as you can. Cut about 3" of the 5/8" heater hose and slide one end over the shiny black line, the other end over the new selenoid and use the hose clamps to secure it. Do not over tighten the clamp that is over the shiny line as it could crush it. Take the rest of the 5/8" line and attach it to the filler cap end that you removed the factory end that leads up to the filler neck - reroute that along the frame up to the transmission - securing with zip ties along the way. The new design for the filter is included with the selenoid. Use a hose clamp to secure the filter end on and toss it up over transmission and have the filter pointing down on the other side of transmission and secure. Total time required, including removing spare tire might be the better part of 1/2 hour with the skill level of a novice. Dealer quotes a minimum of $500 to do this - do it on your own - PRICELESS! Very quick fix and easy to do. Either use an OBD II meter to reset your code or unhook the ground side of battery for about 15 minutes and code will reset. It was a bad design and dealers are making a killing on it and every customer that walks in they act like it's the first time anyone has ever reported a problem like that. A GM parts manager friend sez that in any given week he sees at least 2 of these - it's a normal stock item at your dealer but WAY cheaper at a parts store. If I can do it, with little knowledge you can too. Good luck!

 

Found the same part purge solenoid valve part#214-2149 a/c delco on e-bay for $26 bucks fixed and done. Had to buy a foot of 5/8 heater hose and 2 clamps

 

Hello everybody. What a great site this is. I've been researching the P0449 code that is current on my 09 Silverado. Now the dealership has quoted me $151 for the solenoid and $200 for the canister valve. My question is, is there a website or somewhere else I can get these parts and where can I get the part numbers. Your help is appreciated. Thx, Chris.