Cajun

My stabilitrac is also acting up. I tow a 28' RV. Recently I installed airshocks on the rear to help with the hitch weight. Since then when I am getting to my destination the stabilitrac light comes on. Could this be because of the airshocks?
Thanks

Chevrolet Customer Service

Welcome to the forum, Cajun!

I am sorry to hear that you’ve been experiencing this StabiliTrak concerns as of late. If you have not brought this to the attention of a dealership yet, we’d be happy to assist you in scheduling a diagnostic appointment. If interested, please send us a private message with your VIN, mileage, full contact information and name of preferred dealer.

Helen
Chevrolet Customer Care

Elysia7

Hey I have a 2008 Chevy Silverado. I had a service stability track and traction control light come on then a check engine light on cylinder one. I replaced the coil and the check engine light came back on again I checked the spark plug and it was cracked. I replaced the spark plugs and the wires the light has not come on since but the stability track and traction control light is still on. This is as far as I have gotten with this truck. Let me know if you have found out how to fix the stability track and traction control.

Steeler1

Check your wires & plugs. I did and it corrected the Stabilitrack issue.

rldavid71

Folks, Several years ago I had this same issue with my 2007 Avalanche LTZ w/6.0. Visited the dealer many times, even tried two different dealers. Immediate issues after getting it back each time.
Finally, I stood over the service manager while hooked up to the computer and told him to figure it out. Finally noticed a signal fluctuation in the O2 sensors. Replaced all of them, them many miles and a few years with no issue. Last year, started again, I immediately ordered four (4) new sensors and replaced (under an hours time in your driveway). Just started an issue this evening within a couple blocks of the house. This time I'll leave it at a trusted garage I found early tomorrow and let them go at it. Way too soon for this to occur again...you think? Well, not necessarily. That time a few years ago? Even with dealer supplied new sensors, one was defective within a month.
It's well worth having them specifically check for signal continuity to and from the O2 sensors.

rldavid71

Sorry. As an additional note: During the earlier years different folks tried a lot of different things per suggestions from GM sources, and spent a LOT of money. Some included interior engine work, replacing the intake gasket (signals indicated there were air leaks), and several others.
Seriously, have the signal continuities checked.

cleveland63b

so...since most people seem to not read anything posted from people that actually have the sources and live the life ill try again


ANY code that can turn on the check engine light will more than likely DISABLE the stabilitrak or traction control systems which causes the lights to come ON. Those same lights can also come on from faults in the individual systems. Which means there are literally 100s if not 1,000s of things that can cause the lights to turn on. What works on one vehicle will not necessarily fix the next....just for what its worth.

momeeof2

My 2008 equinox did this. Ended up being the egr valve.

JBreeden12

My car has thrown a running to lean code and also comes up to maintenance my traction control. How can I fix this without having to take it to the dealership?
I think I have the running to lean code figured out with the O2 sensor. Thank you

in2pro

Welcome to the forum,
My process is to read all the codes, write them down, clear them and do a brief study up on each of the codes to look for a pattern or connections, just because a code seems to indicate say a bad o2 sensor, it could really be a back spark plug allowing unburned fuel to pass onto the sensor.
See what comes back after clearing them.
Do the basic checks of battery connections, alternator/generator connections, check the engine ground strap, do a good inspection of wire harnesses under the hood,I know these things can seem way off base but more often than not the problem is simple not complicated.
If and when codes start showing back up, address them one at a time, if a part can be swapped, i.e. plug, plug wire, coil pack do that, clear codes and see what sticks.
On items harder to access or can't be swapped, you have to decide what is the least costly to shotgun, in some cases you can do deeper troubleshooting, like ohm'ing out an O2 sensor to see if it is in range, or check or check for a voltage signal coming to /from a sensor...
It's a balance of cost/time/effort , dig through the forum as there is lots of info scattered about. And Please do report back of what worked or didn't work as that will help someone just as it can or could help you solve your issue...