Good morning all - thought I would provide an update on the posts I placed on 11/14/18, 12/12/18, and 1/11/19. Problem began as random misfire triggering bad stabilitrak warning and truck instability. Much like everyone else here, the truck lurched at stoplights, shuddered and shook. I used code reader and found #1 misfire and random misfire. Checked and replaced plugs (they had 60,000 + on them). All was good for a bit, until it triggered again on New Years Eve 12/31/2018. The #1 plug fouled bad again, others were good. Code reader indicated misfire. I replaced the coil pak on that cylinder - a MSD unit was all I could find in town at O'Reilly and it was the least expensive. I also replaced the plug. Truck has been good ever since and not fouled it again. I likely will replace all the coil paks some time this summer as a precaution. The truck now has a little over 309,000 miles on it.

 

Thanks for the update

 

I drive an 08 Tahoe Z71 and had a similar issue. Engine light at first, then Stabilitrack and Traction Control, then ENGINE REDUCING POWER message. The truck drove slow, shifted hard, and even starting shutting off on me while driving. I had 9 codes referencing all of the O2 sensors, the Evap Vent/Solenoid, and Open circuit A. I traced the connections from each O2 sensor and found that one of the wiring harnesses had dropped onto the exhaust and burned through about 8-9 wires. I reconnected them and secured that harness better and every code went away. Driving like new money ever since. Cost me the price of a few waterproof wire connectors. Hope this gives someone direction and hope.

Wires burned by my fingertips

 

My fix was a simple clogged (with oil sludge) valve. Ofcourse this was found by a 2nd mechanic after first mechanic placed 2000 worth of new parts on my car (I should add first mechanic is a very knowledgeable and respected mechanic, he just missed it). That was why my car was burning oil at such a rapid rate. So have them check and clean your valves. It ended up costing me only labor to have it taken care of!

 

I'm having the same problem with my 2011 Equinox. Occasionally, the stabilitrak light comes on while driving, the car jerks hard to the left, and in about a minute the light goes back off. When I start the car, I get a message that the AWD is off. My mechanic cannot find the problem and has not been able to duplicate the stabilitrak/jerk problem because it doesn't do it all the time. I'm extremely frustrating. If it jerks like that on ice I'm toast. My mechanic spent an entire day looking at wiring and other issues trying to find the problem. This vehicle is old and has 130,000 miles on it. I really don't want to keep sinking more money into it without the problem be remedied. Last time that mechanic looked at it, he tuned it up - changed all spark plugs, etc. He thinks it's a wire harness issue, but cannot explain why is jerks.

 

It's jerking because something is causing a wheel to lock up. If it's a front left wheel, it would be the brake or transaxle related. Could be mechanical or electronic. Could be something in the ABS, Bad wheel speed sensor, Brake caliper, brake hose, etc. If it's the rear, it's differential or brake. Same components as the front would apply to the rear. Could be a faulty ABS module even.

Does you mechanic have a scanner that can read the actual modules in the vehicle? Even if it's not actively occurring, something should be stored. You need to have all the modules scanned to determine if any codes are stored that aren't available using standard OBDII code readers. The Autel/Hyper Tough HT200 at walmart should be able to read them all. I've been able to read all the modules in all the Dodge and GM vehicles I've tried it on.

 

Thank you! Just called the dealer again and they seem to agree that it could be the wheel speed sensor. Last time it was in, they couldn't duplicate and said it wasn't throwing codes. The light goes on for about a minute and goes back off. I have another appointment on Monday to take it in. Definitely feels like the left front wheel. They suggested a wheel bearing, but I've had enough wheel bearings replaced to know what that sounds like, and I don't hear it. The brakes feel fine and no ABS codes. I'll update after next Monday. I just want it fixed before we have ice and snow here in Michigan. Jerking like that could be really dangerous on a slick road.

 

Alright— same EXACT issue!! No joke—I’m helping cause I’d LOVE the favor returned when I had that issue.. i ran a diagnostic obd2 scanner and it told me the EXACT wheel hub that was having the issue— I replaced the hub which was attached to a abs sensor that plugs into the abs wire harness easy... little work.. no trial and error.. replaced the hub with a good MOOG brand hub and reset the lights with the scanner.. and VOILA!! Fixed.. reason it would pop on and off was due to driving and hitting bumps-up and down etc- you get the idea— pinching the wire in a sense.. on another vehicle is was the same— and instead of replacing the hub with a MOOG- I bought a 15-20 dollar wire harness and and VOILA—quick fix— due to it going on and off?? I would gamble that this is the precise issue— good luck

 

I have an appointment today at 1:00 pm to take it to the dealer for a diagnostic test. My regular mechanic does have a scanner, but last time I took it he said it didn't throw any codes and he thought it was a wiring issue. I'm hoping to get answer today anyway. The jerking is not at all cool!

 

OK -- update: The dealer says that I need a module for the rear differential, which will cost $1167. They also say that I need to replace two front stabilizer links. I called my regular mechanic and he's going to look at the diagnostic sheet. Total cost over $1,500. So even if the dealer is correct it's a lot of money for a car that's been nickel and diming me and I still don't have any guarantee that this will turn off the darn lights. I think I'll also run the above wire harness info by him and see what he thinks.