Hey, I bought a 2005 Chevy Silverado a while ago and the passenger seat controls have not been working. I took the passenger seat controls off and discovered I was not getting any power from the hot wire. (Orange) So I ran a 12V wire to the connector and sure enough, the seat works. Anyway, my fuse at the fuse panel is good, and I’m getting power to the hot side of the fuse. So that means the problem is between the seat and fuse panel. It’s worth noting that I also tested the connection under the seat on the main harness, also have 0 power.

I Searched the internet trying to figure out all the connections between the seat and fuse panel, so I could test each one. I was hoping someone here has wisdom they could share to save me from ripping apart the truck figuring out myself.

POST NOTE: the passenger rear window does not operate. We put a new regulator in and still no action. Wondering if the 2 could be related.

 

which fuse did you test?
You have a photo of what I think is the underhood fuse block. But the diagram you posted shows a 30A circuit breaker in the instrument panel relay block (under your dash)

you might want to check out gmupfitter.com
There are schematics, pinouts , and harness routing for your truck.

this might be it: https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-conten...Electrical.pdf



pulling up the carpet is not so bad

 

I just noticed you have the S/R fuse highlighted in your photo. Is that the one you tested? That's for the sunroof.

The one you want is MBEC 50A right at the top. That feeds the seats circuit breaker.
They should be described in your owner's manual.

 

thank you. I’ll be sure to check it out. I accidentally included that photo. I did test the 30 amp fuse as well.


yes, I accidentally included that photo. Thank you. When I bought it I didn’t get a device manual. I will be sure to check that 50a.

 

what 30A fuse? You mean the Seat circuit breaker
Please be specific when describing your troubleshooting.






you should download it
https://www.chevrolet.com/support/ve...manuals-guides

 

my apologies. I’m just a stupid 17 year old. Never worked on anything newer than the 80s. It was the metal 30A under the dash. I should’ve specified circuit breaker. I understand the frustration.

 

Just a couple of pointers for you.

One, you will need a decent ODBII code reader/live data scanner. I said decent, not expensive. If you have an Android device, you can get a very powerful OBDII code reader/live data scanner setup for under $25. What you do is you order this Bluetooth OBDII dongle from Amazon:
and then you spend another $5 and download the Torque Pro app from the Google Play store.

This setup will allow you, once you have set the app up and turned on the various features (takes less then 30 minutes) to read and clear any Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) monitor in real time various engine and emissions systems and functions, and even save the monitored live data for analysis on a PC in an Excel-like file/

Two, since so much of your vehicle is run by various modules that are extremely sensitive to voltages above 5 VDC, using a test light to check for power or ground at various sensors can be deadly to the various control modules it connects to. So, rather than using a test light, you need what is called a logic probe. Harbor Freight has one for $9.99 and is computer module safe. Once you get used to working with it, you will find it extremely helpful. Here is the link:
https://www.harborfreight.com/comput..._q=logic+probe

Three, you will need a decent Digital Multi-Meter (DMM). There are several out there, and they cost anywhere from about $20 on up. One that I often use and keep in the vehicle is this one:
https://www.innova.com/collections/m...nging-dmm-3320
it sells for $29.99 on Amazon.

Four, get a Haynes manual for your Silverado. It will come in handy. Also, here is a link to an online Chilton's manual that is essentially a professional level resource:
https://mcdowellpubliclibrary.org/chilton-auto-repair/

Good Luck and have fun!

Oh yeah, one other thing that you might find handy:

DO NOT DISCONNECT THE BATTERY - REMOVE THE APPROPRIATE FUSE(S). Why? Because when you reconnect the battery, the HVAC actuators inside of the dash are commanded to run a recalibration procedure which stresses the old brittle plastic gears inside the actuators and the brittle plastic gears break and leaves you unable to control where the air comes out, or control the temperature of the air, etc. Replacing at least one of them literally requires the removal of the entire dash! So, if you ever need to actually disconnect the battery, such as in the case of needing to install a new battery, be sure and use some kind of Keep Memory Alive (KAM) device to avoid the HVAC actuator recalibration routine.

 

alright so if you measure 12V on both sides of the circuit breaker, and theres no power at the seat connector, then the problem is in the wiring in floor.

a circuit tracer might help here in finding it