Help with p0449 & p0455 codes
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From: ON Canada
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I have a 08 Tahoe LT. Yesterday driving My wifes Tahoe and while driving noticed that a message came up on info display saying to tighten fuel cap we were on the highway and before we pulled over to check the fuel cap the check eng light came on. pulled over checked the fuel cap it was tight went ahead and removed and tightened it back on check eng light never went away.
Today put my code reader on it and got the code P0449 in the stored codes and P0455 in the pending codes. Did a search and found that some saying that it may be the fuel cap may be bad and cause the code and others saying that it may be some seloind on filler neck. Looked on filler neck didnt see anything that looked like seloind.
Just wondering if anyone knows were I can start to fix problem and if anyone knows if the haynes Manual has anything about these codes and were to start. Dont have the Manual yet probably will go get the manual tomorrow. Sorry so long and Thx for the replies
Today put my code reader on it and got the code P0449 in the stored codes and P0455 in the pending codes. Did a search and found that some saying that it may be the fuel cap may be bad and cause the code and others saying that it may be some seloind on filler neck. Looked on filler neck didnt see anything that looked like seloind.
Just wondering if anyone knows were I can start to fix problem and if anyone knows if the haynes Manual has anything about these codes and were to start. Dont have the Manual yet probably will go get the manual tomorrow. Sorry so long and Thx for the replies
To carry it farther GM didn't give a crap! Same dealer also put ferous metal clip on weights on the 20" alloy wheels on the same Tahoe. GM did replace those when they started to corrode. T>J>
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From: KC, MO area
Sounds like you got a bad dealer. Doesn't matter what brand you get if the people working on it are incompetent.
Alloy wheels should ALWAYS have stick-on weights placed inside in the center of the rim. Even coated clip-on weights will eventually wear thru the clear-coat and then the aluminum will start to corrode.
Alloy wheels should ALWAYS have stick-on weights placed inside in the center of the rim. Even coated clip-on weights will eventually wear thru the clear-coat and then the aluminum will start to corrode.
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From: ON Canada
Having issues with codes PO449 or PO455 in a 2006 Silverado? Hopefully this can be some help! Code PO449 is the evaporative emissions system vent valve/
solenoid circuit. Code PO455 is a "large leak " detection in the evap emissions system. After contacting the dealer who told me the fix was a "big deal" -somewhere in the $600.00 range - the tank would have to be dropped the transmittion mount removed etc. I decided to do a little more research and i'm glad I did. I priced out the evap emissions solenoid GM part # 19207763 for $110.00. (I could not find a cross over part number at my local auto parts for this piece) The new solenoid is different in design from the old one, the old one having a breather cap built in to the top - the new one will be two pieces: the solenoid itself and a seperate breather which will mount seperately to avoid being filled with dust a debrise again. The "big deal" of a job took about twenty minutes! NO jack, NO tank drop, NO hours of diagnostics, NO big deal. Besides the new solenoid you need about fifteen feet of 5/8 " heater hose, four hose clamps, and a few zip ties. The solenoid is located on the right rear of gas tank and attached with a slide clip style mount. Disconnect the wiring pigtail from old solenoid. Disengage slide clip be depressing tab and remove old solenoid. The old solenoid will obviously still be connected to the hard plastic line at this time. Just let it hang freely, no need to mess with the line clamps on frame. Cut about a four or five inch piece of hose and attach to new solenoid (lower) intake tube using hose clamp. Slide new solenoid onto original mount at rear right of tank. This makes it easier to know exactly where you want to cut the rigid line so that about an inch inserts into the other end of the small piece of 5/8" hose (use hose clamp #2 to secure) Now, take the remaining section of hose and attach the breather using hose clamp #3. You want to locate the new breather in a clean area above the transmittion. A good place to zip tie is the trans breather tube. Careful not to pinch either with ziptie. The "grill" of breather should be horizontal (facing the side of vehicle) Now carfully route the hose towards the rear of truck away from heat sources and moving parts. I routed mine back and across, then fished it above and between tank and frame rail. Once you've reached the back trim of hose not needed and attach to breather (top) outlet of solenoid using clamp #4. Reconnect pigtail to new solenoid. Erase codes. (My local auto parts lends their machine.) Done! Everything is working great. No light on in the dash and ready for emmisions inspection. These pics may be some help as well. One side note: After purchasing the solenoid from the dealer I found out that the $110.00 TRUCK solenoid can be replaced by a cavelier or cobalt solenoid because they cross over or something. The CAR solenoid sells for around $40.00. I didn't check into this fully so...you may want to if you can save some coin. Pictures in link: Picasa Web Albums - brandon crawford - Truck
solenoid circuit. Code PO455 is a "large leak " detection in the evap emissions system. After contacting the dealer who told me the fix was a "big deal" -somewhere in the $600.00 range - the tank would have to be dropped the transmittion mount removed etc. I decided to do a little more research and i'm glad I did. I priced out the evap emissions solenoid GM part # 19207763 for $110.00. (I could not find a cross over part number at my local auto parts for this piece) The new solenoid is different in design from the old one, the old one having a breather cap built in to the top - the new one will be two pieces: the solenoid itself and a seperate breather which will mount seperately to avoid being filled with dust a debrise again. The "big deal" of a job took about twenty minutes! NO jack, NO tank drop, NO hours of diagnostics, NO big deal. Besides the new solenoid you need about fifteen feet of 5/8 " heater hose, four hose clamps, and a few zip ties. The solenoid is located on the right rear of gas tank and attached with a slide clip style mount. Disconnect the wiring pigtail from old solenoid. Disengage slide clip be depressing tab and remove old solenoid. The old solenoid will obviously still be connected to the hard plastic line at this time. Just let it hang freely, no need to mess with the line clamps on frame. Cut about a four or five inch piece of hose and attach to new solenoid (lower) intake tube using hose clamp. Slide new solenoid onto original mount at rear right of tank. This makes it easier to know exactly where you want to cut the rigid line so that about an inch inserts into the other end of the small piece of 5/8" hose (use hose clamp #2 to secure) Now, take the remaining section of hose and attach the breather using hose clamp #3. You want to locate the new breather in a clean area above the transmittion. A good place to zip tie is the trans breather tube. Careful not to pinch either with ziptie. The "grill" of breather should be horizontal (facing the side of vehicle) Now carfully route the hose towards the rear of truck away from heat sources and moving parts. I routed mine back and across, then fished it above and between tank and frame rail. Once you've reached the back trim of hose not needed and attach to breather (top) outlet of solenoid using clamp #4. Reconnect pigtail to new solenoid. Erase codes. (My local auto parts lends their machine.) Done! Everything is working great. No light on in the dash and ready for emmisions inspection. These pics may be some help as well. One side note: After purchasing the solenoid from the dealer I found out that the $110.00 TRUCK solenoid can be replaced by a cavelier or cobalt solenoid because they cross over or something. The CAR solenoid sells for around $40.00. I didn't check into this fully so...you may want to if you can save some coin. Pictures in link: Picasa Web Albums - brandon crawford - Truck
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From: Texas
Help Help Help!
I have read all of these excellent posts and am ready to tackle my issue but I can't find the canister solenoid valve kit anywhere. The dealer said in the ball park of $61 but I see some of you guys are saying around $30. I have an 07 Suburban LTZ bought used and have already spent mucho dinero on struts and tires 
. Can someone guide me in the right direction of an online site that sells this part exactly for my 07? I have no clue on how to work on vehicles so I want to make sure I get the right part and fix this issue before I take it on road trips. Thanks in advance.
. Can someone guide me in the right direction of an online site that sells this part exactly for my 07? I have no clue on how to work on vehicles so I want to make sure I get the right part and fix this issue before I take it on road trips. Thanks in advance.
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I have read all of these excellent posts and am ready to tackle my issue but I can't find the canister solenoid valve kit anywhere. The dealer said in the ball park of $61 but I see some of you guys are saying around $30. I have an 07 Suburban LTZ bought used and have already spent mucho dinero on struts and tires . Can someone guide me in the right direction of an online site that sells this part exactly for my 07? I have no clue on how to work on vehicles so I want to make sure I get the right part and fix this issue before I take it on road trips. Thanks in advance.
. Can someone guide me in the right direction of an online site that sells this part exactly for my 07? I have no clue on how to work on vehicles so I want to make sure I get the right part and fix this issue before I take it on road trips. Thanks in advance.PS GM sucks!
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Lost I don't think it is a line that has popped off but I will check before ordering the parts. Last week the light went off but came on a day later. That is why I don't think it is a line. Maybe the valve closed for a day. Any how I am going out of state and hope to tackle this job in two weeks.
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Lost I don't think it is a line that has popped off but I will check before ordering the parts. Last week the light went off but came on a day later. That is why I don't think it is a line. Maybe the valve closed for a day. Any how I am going out of state and hope to tackle this job in two weeks.
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20" AL. wheels
Our 07 Tahoe has 20" AL. wheels that started to corrode at 20K. I observed that GM or the dealer installed ferous metal wheel weights to balance them and I deducted that the clip on weights were the culprit and complained to the dealer. There was no argument about replacing them and a new set was promptly ordered and installed. I had it up on the rack ( scraping all the failed under coating off the underside to use a rust conversion chemical to rectify another GM F--- up) and noticed clip on weights on the inside of the wheels??????????????? I give up. Lost
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From: KC, MO area
Lostbowl: Our 07 Tahoe has 20" AL. wheels that started to corrode at 20K. I observed that GM or the dealer installed ferous metal wheel weights to balance them and I deducted that the clip on weights were the culprit and complained to the dealer. There was no argument about replacing them and a new set was promptly ordered and installed. I had it up on the rack ( scraping all the failed under coating off the underside to use a rust conversion chemical to rectify another GM F--- up) and noticed clip on weights on the inside of the wheels??????????????? I give up. Lost
While the clip-on weights on the inside will eventually wear thru the clear coat,
at least it doesn't show and doesn't hurt anything.The proper way to balance aluminum wheels is to use stick-on weights mounted in the center of the rim. You'll usually have to request it tho. My optional chrome wheels came that way,
probably because they come to the dealer from an outside source. The truck came from the factory w/ plain steel wheels which the dealer sends back to Arlington after putting on the optional wheel.