What has been fixed and what needs to be fixed 2007 tahoe
not going to include simple maintenance issues
HAVE REPLACED
1. alternator at 178k miles
2. all 4 rotors at 125k miles (3rd set of brakes)
3. can't remember what its called but some type of charcoal filter for the gas vent/epa/something/thingamajig, cost about a 100.00 or so at around 50k miles
4. replaced BOTH headlights because i had the proverbial blown daylight bulb and both lights had water intrusion replaced at 170k miles
5. Just replaced brake position sensor for $203.00 at local chevy stealership, could have bought the part at auotzone for 35.00
Things that NEED to be replaced
1. MY DASH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2. the DIC light is now out and i can't see any messages which include ADD OIL, mileage etc etc. i can hit the dash and it comes on sometimes but afraid too as the dash could crack more
3. i am now getting on every drive my abs warning lights are on when i touch the brakes
4. this is progressively becoming more of a problem, its getting harder and harder to get out of park from the shift lock or torque lock, i now have to turn the wheel back and forth, press brake and jiggle shift lever to get out of park
5. while rotating front tire, the jack busted through the front little divet where you put your jack on passenger side, luckily i was at home and had a second jack
6. lumbar support pump is now random
7. Broken motor mount on driver side at 180k miles. mechanic showed me how the engine was literally jumping out of the frame when ding quick rev with brakes applied
8. need to pull the brake toward me when putting the cruise on, annoying but i can deal with it
9. (edited- just got repaired) brake position sensor, takes forever to get car out of park
overall not bad, just very disappointed at number 1, 2, 4 and 5 on things that need replacing
2007 tahoe ltz 180k miles
gainesville fl
HAVE REPLACED
1. alternator at 178k miles
2. all 4 rotors at 125k miles (3rd set of brakes)
3. can't remember what its called but some type of charcoal filter for the gas vent/epa/something/thingamajig, cost about a 100.00 or so at around 50k miles
4. replaced BOTH headlights because i had the proverbial blown daylight bulb and both lights had water intrusion replaced at 170k miles
5. Just replaced brake position sensor for $203.00 at local chevy stealership, could have bought the part at auotzone for 35.00
Things that NEED to be replaced
1. MY DASH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
2. the DIC light is now out and i can't see any messages which include ADD OIL, mileage etc etc. i can hit the dash and it comes on sometimes but afraid too as the dash could crack more
3. i am now getting on every drive my abs warning lights are on when i touch the brakes
4. this is progressively becoming more of a problem, its getting harder and harder to get out of park from the shift lock or torque lock, i now have to turn the wheel back and forth, press brake and jiggle shift lever to get out of park
5. while rotating front tire, the jack busted through the front little divet where you put your jack on passenger side, luckily i was at home and had a second jack
6. lumbar support pump is now random
7. Broken motor mount on driver side at 180k miles. mechanic showed me how the engine was literally jumping out of the frame when ding quick rev with brakes applied
8. need to pull the brake toward me when putting the cruise on, annoying but i can deal with it
9. (edited- just got repaired) brake position sensor, takes forever to get car out of park
overall not bad, just very disappointed at number 1, 2, 4 and 5 on things that need replacing
2007 tahoe ltz 180k miles
gainesville fl
Last edited by bamafutbal; Oct 29, 2012 at 1:54 PM.
1 & 2, I would consider normal wear and tear
#3 could be from over filling the gas tank, do you stop at the first shut off or top it off a bit more?
#4 humm... do they take a beating from off road use?
Things that need...
#2 if you can hit the dash and it works, then you need to pull the IP and re-seat the electrical connections to the panel...
#4 the shift lock pin may need a shot of lube or the switch on the brake pedal may be getting worn out...
#6 is probably a dirty or worn out switch, try some electrical contact cleaner on it
#7 180k I would consider that normal wear and tear for a motor mount
#3 could be from over filling the gas tank, do you stop at the first shut off or top it off a bit more?
#4 humm... do they take a beating from off road use?
Things that need...
#2 if you can hit the dash and it works, then you need to pull the IP and re-seat the electrical connections to the panel...
#4 the shift lock pin may need a shot of lube or the switch on the brake pedal may be getting worn out...
#6 is probably a dirty or worn out switch, try some electrical contact cleaner on it
#7 180k I would consider that normal wear and tear for a motor mount
1 is very understandable, 2 was an upgrade for pulling or stopping a boat, 4- have seen others look the same way
things that need to to be addressed:
****2- please expand your infinite wisdom on this one, would love to know how, what, when, where to do this one or is it out of my league and the dealer has to do it. have limited skills but i did replace the alternator and brake rotors
6-its stuck on full support which is where i keep it anyway
7-yes happened on my previous cars at lesser mileage
things that need to to be addressed:
****2- please expand your infinite wisdom on this one, would love to know how, what, when, where to do this one or is it out of my league and the dealer has to do it. have limited skills but i did replace the alternator and brake rotors
6-its stuck on full support which is where i keep it anyway
7-yes happened on my previous cars at lesser mileage
Give this a read on how to remove the IP, once out, clean the electrical connectors with alcohol and firmly seat the connections, make sure all locking tabs are engaged.
https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...cluster-36889/
https://chevroletforum.com/forum/tah...cluster-36889/
NOW ADD #9: It now hangs up getting out of park, occasionally over last month or so it wouild happen, i turn the wheel and it goes into the gear i select, now i am 500 miles from home, leaving a football game at midnight and it will NOT GET OUT OF PARK, and there are people waiting for me to move my car so they can leave also. it turn it on i turn it off, i turn the wheel, i press the brakes, i even read the manual but it explains the situation when you are on a hill and cannot get it out of park. finally after 10 minutes or so it goes right into reverse like it was supposed to. get back to the hotel and park it, try getting it out of park and NO. at this time for the well being of my tahoe i went up to the room, took a shower and went to bed, next day it does it again, and after 10 minutes it finally eases into reverse. so i had to fill it up with gas twice with car running and emergency brake on with it in neutral, went to a restaurant for lunch and kept the car running with it in neutral and car running. get it home, park it and it slides in and out of park with no problem.....what gives
If not the brake switch might want to check out the Transmission Shift Lock on the steering column... could try removing and cleaning but it might be worth checking its cost and replacing it if you go through the trouble of removing it to clean...
xTooltipElement Service Information
2007 Chevrolet Tahoe - 2WD | Avalanche, Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 1740558
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control Actuator Replacement
Removal Procedure
Disable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling.
Remove the knee bolster. Refer to Knee Bolster Replacement .
Put the shift lever clevis into the neutral position.
Disconnect the electrical connector.
Using a small screwdriver, pry the automatic transmission shift lock control actuator away from the steering column jacket and the cable shift cam.
Remove the shift lock control actuator.
Installation Procedure
Firmly install the shift lock control actuator onto the steering column jacket and the cable shift cam.
Connect the electrical connector.
Adjust the shift lock control actuator (with the shift lever clevis in the neutral position) in the following way:
3.1. Pull out the tab (1) on the adjuster block side (2) of the shift lock control actuator.
3.2. Press on the adjuster block (2) to compress the internal adjuster spring which disengages the adjuster teeth. Slide the adjuster block (2) as far away from the actuator as possible.
3.3. Lock the adjuster block (2) in place by pushing in on the tab (1).
Inspect the shift lock control actuator for the following items:
4.1. The shift lock control actuator must lock the shift lever clevis when the shift lever clevis is put into the park position.
4.2. Depress the brake pedal to move the shift lever out of the park position.
4.3. The actuator will be energized.
4.4. Readjust the shift lock control actuator if needed.
Install the knee bolster. Refer to Knee Bolster Replacement .
Enable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling.
xTooltipElement Service Information
2007 Chevrolet Tahoe - 2WD | Avalanche, Escalade, Suburban, Tahoe, Yukon (VIN C/K) Service Manual | Document ID: 1740558
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control Actuator Replacement
Removal Procedure
Disable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling.
Remove the knee bolster. Refer to Knee Bolster Replacement .
Put the shift lever clevis into the neutral position.
Disconnect the electrical connector.
Using a small screwdriver, pry the automatic transmission shift lock control actuator away from the steering column jacket and the cable shift cam.
Remove the shift lock control actuator.
Installation Procedure
Firmly install the shift lock control actuator onto the steering column jacket and the cable shift cam.
Connect the electrical connector.
Adjust the shift lock control actuator (with the shift lever clevis in the neutral position) in the following way:
3.1. Pull out the tab (1) on the adjuster block side (2) of the shift lock control actuator.
3.2. Press on the adjuster block (2) to compress the internal adjuster spring which disengages the adjuster teeth. Slide the adjuster block (2) as far away from the actuator as possible.
3.3. Lock the adjuster block (2) in place by pushing in on the tab (1).
Inspect the shift lock control actuator for the following items:
4.1. The shift lock control actuator must lock the shift lever clevis when the shift lever clevis is put into the park position.
4.2. Depress the brake pedal to move the shift lever out of the park position.
4.3. The actuator will be energized.
4.4. Readjust the shift lock control actuator if needed.
Install the knee bolster. Refer to Knee Bolster Replacement .
Enable the SIR system. Refer to SIR Disabling and Enabling.
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